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There are now a whole bunch of new versions of the coolest $150 watch in the world

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Swatch Green SISTEM51

The Apple Watch is going to hit the market very soon. 

But before the Apple Watch was announced, another well-known brand captured the attention of the horological universe in dramatic fashion.

It was Swatch. 

Yes, Swatch — maker of all those witty plastic timepieces that everyone wore in the 1980s, and that still have a following in both low and high places today.

The watch was the Sistem51 — an innovative and radically new automatic timepiece that's purely Swiss and purely Swatch.

The Sistem51 only costs $150 and went on sale in the US in 2014. It created a sensation at the big annual watch show in Basel in 2013. From my perspective, it's the coolest $150 watch in the world right now.

There were four original versions of the watch. They have now been joined by five new editions, including a variation of the Sistem Blue that now has a more legible dial for timekeeping.

CREATING A SENSATION

When it was revealed, Sistem51 took the Swiss watchmaking community by storm.

"Jaws dropped," said Carlo Giordanetti, Swatch's Creative Director. "No one thought it would be possible."

So what exactly did Swatch manage to achieve with Sistem51?

It reduced the number of parts in the movement to 51, about half of what a typical automatic watch requires.

An automatic movement is powered by the movement of the wearer. The finest watches in the world are automatics, costing tens and even hundreds of thousands. Their movements — complicated miniature machines — are a source of fascination to watch collectors and enthusiasts.

There are plenty of cheap automatics out there. You can pick up a perfectly good one for less than $100. It won't be anything to write home about, but it won't need a new battery every few years, either.

And it won't be as innovative as Sistem51. 

"51 became a target," said Giordanetti, who has been with Swatch since 1987. " It was a challenge for our engineers to get the same number of components in an automatic as in a quartz."

ELIMINATING COMPLICATION

The overriding goal was to eliminate complexity. For the record, complications are what the traditional Swiss watch industry thrives on. More complications can make for a far more valuable and desirable watch. Quartz watches, by contrast, are fairly simple: they use a quartz crystal and electric oscillation to generate very precise timekeeping. 

Automatic watches use mechanical action to wind a mainspring, which powers the timekeeping function.

There's no fastidious watchmaker laboring over a bench with tiny tools and a sure, practiced hand producing the Sistem51. Instead, there are robots. The entire assembly process is automated. The movement is constructed around a single, central screw.

No shortage of traditional watchmaker know-how went into creating the watch, according to Giordanetti. It was, however, updated, forward-thinking know-how.

"There were 25 to 35 young people involved, all from watchmaking families," he said. "No other brand could have done this."

The traditional Swiss watch industry is doing quite well these days, supported by global demand for luxury timepieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and other big names. It's all about automatics, so Swatch saw an opportunity to use its heft to introduce something radically new into this market — all while keeping intact the brand's affection for whimsy and irreverence.

IT'S NOT ABOUT SHOWING OFF

"It was an innocent provocation," Giordanetti said of the roll-out of Sistem51 in Basel in 2013.

But it was more than that. "It was emotional," the Swatch veteran added.

Apart from watchmaking innovation, Sistem51 also represents another core Swatch value: cheerful unpretentiousness. 

"It's not about showing off," Giordanetti explained. "It's all about lightness. A Swatch collector wants to look at his or her watch and smile two or three times a day."

"You can hide it," Giordanetti said, and he's right. This isn't a watch that will live on display below your shirt cuff. It's the farthest thing from a chunky, stainless-steel dive watch you can get. It's the anti-Rolex Submariner. But like the Rolex, it's still a completely Swiss watch.

And at $150, it's also the most affordable all-new, super-innovative all-Swiss movement you can lay your hands on.

Sistem51 is a piece of watchmaking history, as important as the arrival of Swatch quartzes were in the 1980s. The Apple Watch will be a big deal. But Apple isn't the only innovator in watches these days!

You can find the Sistem51 here.

Here's a look at the new designs:

Swatch SISTEM51 New Blue

 

Swatch SISTEM 51 Black

Swatch SISTEM 51 Pink

 

Swatch SISTEM 51 Cream

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Here's the thing about the Apple Watch — it isn't really a watch (AAPL)

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Apple Watch

The Apple Watch is going to hit the market pretty soon.

There's a raging debate about whether it will revolutionize the smartwatch category or be a humiliating flop that destroys the shared destiny of Apple CEO Tim Cook and design majordomo Jony Ive. 

A lot of chatter around the Apple Watch has a decidedly confused quality to it. If people don't much wear watches anymore (They have iPhones to tell time!), why would they want to buy one that starts at $350?

If you want a timekeeping device for your wrist, you can get one for $10 that tells time flawlessly and doesn't need to be recharged every night.

What does Apple expect folks to do with the watch — invent new modes of communication? Streamline their ability to pay for stuff?

Wear it like a fashionable high-end watch?

It only looks like a watch ...

Having paid attention to watches for a long, long time and, a few years back, predicted that wearables were going to be the next hot thing in tech, I can say that much of the confusion about the watch has to do with how it looks.

By that, I mean: Apple is calling it a "watch." You wear it on your wrist, and Ive and Apple's design team have worked hard to make it look like a nice watch, including the brilliant touch of retaining the traditional horological crown as an input feature. 

But the Apple Watch is not just a watch. If you consider all the other stuff the watch can do or will be able to do, the Apple Watch will essentially be a tiny iPhone strapped to your arm. It could do for wearable computers what the iPhone did for desktops and laptops and cameras and cell phones — rendered them all optional. (For a brief period a few years back, I was between laptops and reverted to using a very old model which couldn't browse the Web effectively, but I had an iPhone and experienced no real problems.)

So the critical question: With the Apple Watch, are we really dealing with a watch? Or a new genre of device that only shares with traditional watches a piece of real estate on the human body?

Obviously, it's not a watch. It's a small wearable computer that, for the moment, requires a slightly larger yet still very portable pocket computer — the iPhone — to work. Watches are only good for one thing, basically: telling time. Some have various other functions related to time built in, but they're called "timepieces" for a reason.

I use my watches to tell time time and, occasionally, to time things. Otherwise, I just enjoy looking at them. 

The magic, mutable Apple watchface

The only thing that interests me about the Apple Watch as a watch is the ability to change the watch face. It could look like a Cartier Santos ...

Cartier Santos

... or a Rolex Sub ...

Rolex Submariner 

... or a Panerai Luminor ...

Panerai

... or a digital watch ...

Times Ironman 

... or something wilder and more exotic ...

Devon Watch 

 Cool!

The Apple Watch also benefits from a trend in watches of late: bigness. It's a large timepiece (although not, reportedly, enormous). A few decades ago, no one would have wanted to wear anything so chunky on their wrist — even the legendary Rolex Submariner, originally a diver's watch with a large form factor for its day, looks dinky compared with the slabs of micro-engineering that some people are strapping to their wrists these days.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

The whole point of fine Swiss horology was to strive for thinness. For example, the Patek Philippe Calatrava, an automatic wristwatch that packs all its ingenious mechanical technology into mere 7-millimeter-thick case, like the example to the right.

Aesthetically, the Apple Watch fits in with the current style of wrist wear.

Leaving the world of watches behind

The only precedent I can think of for the Apple Watch is the modern dive watch, which is actually a dive computer. For decades, divers needed reliable watches that could survive the rigors of the deep. This is why the Rolex Sub is so iconic — it was the dive watch by which others were judged.

But nobody goes scuba diving with a Rolex Sub these days. They use one of these:

It costs $1,800. Which is a relative bargain, compared to the Rolex, which goes for about $8,000 — and was pricey even during its more utilitarian heyday. 

However, the dive computer does SO MUCH MORE than a Swiss automatic dive watch that it isn't even funny. That's why it's called a "computer."

And therein lies the tricky issue with the Apple Watch. Apple seems to be trying to please two constituencies with the device: those who wear or would wear a watch; and those who desire a wrist computer. Maries Icon Dive Computer

Logical, given that the existing smartwatches haven't really taken off as a new tech category. They just don't much appeal to the watch set, which sees them as glorified Timex Ironman digitials. So naturally Apple decided to "conquest" these people, in the lingo of marketing. So the Apple Watch is exceptionally watch-like, as smartwatches go.

Apple wants watch folks to wear the watch every day, too, something that watch folks don't always do. Watch folks like to wear different watches. I would be depressed if I had to wear the same watch every day.

So to be a success, the Apple Watch has to be something that completely transcends all our preconceived notions about a gadget you wear on your wrist. Just as the iPhone completely redefined what a "phone" could be.

That's a lot to take on. Because I can go out right now and buy a great $350 traditional watch that will last practically forever, look good, and tell time.

For my perspective, there isn't much to be gained for Apple to compete with that. So it must have a much more all-consuming and ultimately indispensable future in mind for its much-awaited new gadget.

SEE ALSO: There are now a whole bunch of new versions of the coolest $150 watch in the world

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Forget the $17,000 gold Apple Watch — this $2.6 million Patek Philippe is the most complicated wristwatch in history

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Patek Philippe

It was revealed Monday at the Apple Watch presentation in San Francisco that the most expensive Apple Watch will cost a whopping $17,000.

Of course, that's small potatoes compared to this $2.6 million Swiss watch which is arguably the most complex wristwatch that has ever been made.

For its 175th anniversary, the luxury Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe invented a collection of limited-edition commemorative timepieces called The Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications, two dials, and 214 parts.

The watch measures 47.7 mm in diameter and has 1,366 individual components. It took a whopping eight years and 100,000 man hours to develop, 60,000 of which were spent just on the watch's movement. 

Patek Philippe calls the Grandmaster Chime an “intelligent watch” with features such as a minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and a second time zone.

It also has two deluxe features that are a world-first for chime watches, including an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time and even a function that chimes the date.

Patek Philippe The Grandmaster Chime is the first double-face wristwatch to be presented by Patek Philippe, meaning that it can be worn with either dial facing up — one shows the time, while the other shows the calendar. The “swivel case,” which enables the watches smooth reversal, took an astounding four years to perfect.

Both sides are equally stunning. The 18k rose gold 16.1 mm thick clasp was fully engraved by hand. Even the strap is meticulously designed — hand-stitched and made from alligator.

Patek PhilippeOnly seven of the Grandmaster Chimes will be produced, and Patek Philippe will keep one in the company’s museum in Geneva where it can be admired by the public. 

And for those who want to purchase the remaining six, it's not enough to have $2.5 million in the bank. Lucky customers must also be interviewed by Thierry Stern, the chairman of the watchmaking brand.

"I would like to chat with the client and make sure he's a watch lover and make sure he's going to enjoy the watch for many years,"Stern told CNBC.

Patek Philippe

SEE ALSO: This Wrist Watch Has 876 Parts And Costs $2.5 Million

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9 beautiful watches that cost $10,000 and won't become obsolete

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Rolex Daytona

The problem with the 18k gold Apple Watch Edition isn't that $10,000 is a lot for a watch. It isn't. 

It is, however a lot for a first generation gadget.

Once you get into the $10,000 range in watch buying, you start buying for investment. These are the watches that become family heirlooms: timepieces that are kept forever, worn on special occasions, and eventually passed down to children.

It's virtually guaranteed your children are not going to want a first generation Apple Watch. In fact, in only a few short years the Apple Watch Edition will probably only be as valuable as the metals that can be salvaged after melting it down

Luxury watch brands, on the other hand, have been making mechanical movements and gorgeous watch cases for centuries.

Their intricate movements and insanely strong pedigree helps them maintain their value. And the best part is: the technology never changes.

Here are just a few smart purchases for those in the market for an investment-grade watch.

IWC Portugieser Automatic IW5007

The Portugieser is one of IWC's most popular models. With its legendary Pellaton winding system and select ceramic components, this watch is sure to hold its value.

Suggested Retail: $13,700



Rolex Datejust

Rolex is probably the most recognized watch brand in the world. This means that everyone knows how great the Datejust is — and everyone wants one.

Suggested Retail$12,750



Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watch name that needs no introduction. It's been making spectacular watches with insanely precise movements since 1833 and the elegantly designed Master Memovox continues that tradition.

Suggested Retail: $11,100



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Think the Apple Watch is expensive? Check out this $162,000 watch its creator calls 'the future'

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We finally learned how Apple will price its first-generation Apple Watch: It will start at $350, and range all the way up to $17,000 for the most expensive model.

But if you think $17,000 is expensive for a watch, you haven't seen the Dream Watch 5 from Swiss watchmaker De Bethune, which its founder and designer David Zanetta calls, "the future."

With polished titanium and sweeping angles that make it look like a spaceship, the Dream Watch 5 costs a whopping $162,000. Here it is:

de bethune dream watch 5

de bethune dream watch 5

De Bethune Dream Watch 5

The Dream Watch 5 shows the hours, minutes, and even a spherical indicator showing the moon's phase. The titanium has a mirror-like finish, and the band is made of "extra-supple alligator leather" with a pin buckle.

In a limited edition of just 10, De Bethune's Dream Watch 5 is more than 9X more expensive than the Apple Watch — but it still can't show you texts and notifications, let you make calls, or track your heart rate. This watch is less about functionality and more about fashion and fantasy.

SEE ALSO: Here's the most expensive Apple Watch you can buy

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NOW WATCH: Here's Tim Cook answering all your questions about the Apple Watch

Here's why the Apple Watch always shows the time as 10:09 in advertisements (AAPL)

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Apple Watch

If you see an advertisement for a watch, chances are you'll see the watch's time set to 10:10.

Watchmakers have traditionally chosen 10:10 as their display time because it ensures that the watchmaker's logo, which is usually engraved beneath the 12, isn't obscured by the watch hands. On top of that, having the hands at 10:10 is symmetrical.

Apple, however, chooses to display a slightly different time on all of its Apple Watch promotions, setting the time one minute ahead to 10:09 rather than 10:10.

Apple Watch faces GIF

It's no mistake, either. Apple has a history of choosing a display time that has some significance, famously setting the time on all of its iPhone promotional materials and images to 9:41, the approximate time of day when Steve Jobs first unveiled the iPhone to the world back in 2007.

So why 10:09 for the Apple Watch? Apple appears to be making a statement about being ahead of the curve when it comes to smartwatches, and the facts back this theory up.

Rolex

Many of the most famous watchmakers have a preference for the exact time displayed on their watches, according to Quartz. Rolex loves 10:10:31, TAG Heuer prefers 10:10:37, and Bell & Ross always opts for uniformity with 10:10:10. Timex, one of the few watchmakers who deviate from the 10:10 norm, displays the time 10:09:36.

Timex watch times

Diving deeper, it appears that Apple wants the Apple Watch's time to be ahead of even Timex, and displays a specific time of 10:09:00 or 10:09:30, both of which allow Apple to consider itself "ahead of the times" with the Apple Watch.

So there you have it, it all boils down to Apple using a cheeky pun to symbolically stake its claim to the smartwatch market, all while tipping its hat to an age-old watchmakers tradition.

Update: Apple blogger Dave Mark over at The Loop has a different theory.

I think this is more about symmetry, about attention to detail, than about being ahead of the curve. At 10:10, the hour hand will be 1/6 of the way between the 10 and the 11 on the watch face. If the minute hand is precisely on the 2 (as it would be at 10:10), the minute and hour hands would not be symmetrical. At 10:09, the hands would be much closer to symmetrical perfection.

That sounds more like Apple logic to me.

Mark makes a great point, and his theory could also explain why the second hand is always at the 12 or the 6 position, as both maintain the symmetry of the watch face. Either way, there's no doubt that Apple was deliberate with its choice.

SEE ALSO: The 15 Apple Watch apps we're most excited to try

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7 of the most expensive watches you can buy

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On Monday, Apple’s Watch presentation drummed up a lot of buzz surrounding its $17,000 gold timepiece.

But that’s nothing compared to a $55 million diamond-encrusted watch.

We rounded up the latest top timepieces that cost over a million dollars, disregarding auction prices and past sales. We only included watches that are currently on the market that you can actually buy.

That is, if you can afford it. 

Keep reading to see seven of the most expensive watches in the world.

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor watch costs $1.1 million

Roger Dubuis Silicon Excalibur Quatuor watchDebuted in 2013, the Excalibur Quatuor silicon watch took 2,400 hours to build and over 7 years of research to create. Each of its balances pulse four times per second, so instead of a classic ticking watch, it sounds more like a whirring machine.

Only three of these watches exist in the world, each made of 590 parts and with a $1.1 million price tag. Read more about the Excalibur Quatuor here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie timepiece costs $1.5 million

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande SonnerieWith 1,472 parts, this is one of the most complex watches in the world. It has a perpetual calendar, flying tourbillon, and took five years to the develop.

The watch also comes with a Hybris Mechanica 55 Safe which is a part of the extreme price. It’s a leather-coated trunk that is code-secured with a sound system within the safe that allows the chiming of the Hybris Mechanica à Grand Sonnerie to be heard. 

The Greubel Forsey Art Piece 1 watch costs between $1 million and $2 million

greubel forsey artpiece 1Along with 30-degree double tourbillons, a beautiful blue dial cover, and sapphire case back, this watch has a tiny work of art by British artist Willard Wigan. It’s a tiny gold ship which you can see by looking through what looks like a second crown but what is actually a 23x magnifier that displays the microscopic sculpture.

The price for this exquisite Greubel Forsey design isn’t technically known (it’s only available for serious buyers), but it’s estimated to be between $1 and $2 million. 

Richard Mille's Tourbillon RM 56-02 Sapphire watch retails for over $2 million

 Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 56-02 SapphireWith a transparent case made from solid sapphire, this Richard Mille watch has titanium movements and is both scratch-resistant and water resistant up to 3 meters.

Only 10 of the Tourbillon RM 56-02 Sapphire were made and they cost $2.02 million. Each watch “requires 40 days of continuous 24/7 machining for the case followed by 400 additional hours” of finishing work, according to Watch Time

A. Lange & Söhne's Grand Complication timepiece costs over $2 million

grand complication watch A. Lange & SöhneThis A. Lange & Söhne watch debuted at a price tag of €1.92 million ($2.05 million at today's conversion rates) with 876 individual parts.

It takes a full year for the watchmaker to complete each watch. Since it debuted in 2013, there’s only been one of these watches released each year — the last and final watch will be sold in 2018. Read more about the Grand Complication here.

Patek Philippe’s The Grandmaster Chime watch costs $2.6 million

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 2In honor of the storied Swiss watchmaker’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe unveiled this gorgeous watch with 20 complications, two dials, and 214 parts.

It took eight years and over 100,000 man hours to develop. Only seven of the two-faced watches were produced, each retailing for a whopping $2.6 million. Read more about the Grandmaster Chime here.

The Graff Diamonds Hallucination watch costs $55 million

graff diamonds hallucination watchBlowing away the competition is also the only watch for women on the list — the gem-studded Graff Diamonds Hallucination from Graff Jewelry, a new name in the watch business that debuted at last year’s Baselworld watch show.

The bracelet has a tiny face and huge colored diamonds all set in platinum. Only one was made and as far as we know, it’s still up for sale if you're interested.

Only time will tell if Graff outdoes itself at this year’s Baselworld later this month.

Did we forget an amazing watch over $1 million? Let us know in the comments!

SEE ALSO: 9 beautiful watches that cost $10,000 and won't become obsolete

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Swiss makers quietly prepare with smartwatches of their own

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Apple CEO Tim Cook introduces the Apple Watch. REUTERS/Robert Galbraith

To observers of the secretive Swiss watch industry, its quiet, seemingly passive response to Apple Inc's plan to attack their centuries-old business could be mistaken for submission before an overwhelming adversary.

But luxury and fashion groups Richemont, LVMH, Swatch Group and Guess Inc have been busy in the past year tinkering with smartwatches of their own, while aiming to preserve their products' more timeless appeal.

When Apple Watch was first announced last September, some experts dismissed such devices as appealing to a different class of customer - those who prize technology over prestige.

Now analysts and industry executives are starting to think that maybe the Apple Watch juggernaut will stoke sales of luxury timepieces among younger consumers used to telling the time with their phones, rather than on their wrists.

"Apple has the potential to make the watch cool again," said CCS Insight mobile analyst Ben Wood, a confessed wearable gadget freak. "I think the Swiss watch industry are going to be absolutely delighted."

Swatch - which has dabbled with smartwatch experiments for more than a decade and already makes components for fitness band wearable devices, has told Swiss newspapers it is gearing up to offer smartwatches of its own in the next few months.

"Apple is not the only company which is about to toss a smartwatch on the market," Nick Hayek, chief executive of Swatch, the world's largest watchmaking group, told SonntagsBlick in January. "This is not a threat but a huge opportunity for us and the Swiss watch industry."

On Monday, Apple revealed that its line-up of watches will go on sale in April. The entry-level Apple Watch Sport will start at $349, the standard version at $549 and the high-end "Edition" watch at $10,000.

The upcoming Swatch Smartwatch will include a chip that allows users to make contactless payments with a swipe of the wrist. It will use long-lasting batteries and work with both Apple and Google-based phones, according to news reports.

While the Apple Watch has drawn rave reviews for many of its features, its limited battery life of no more than 18 hours before re-charging is considered a big drawback.

LUXURY OF TIME

swiss smartwatchThe threat of the smartwatch may also be limited due to its short shelf life as a hi-tech, frequently upgraded product.

An iPhone tends to lose half its value within the first year after it is introduced, while Rolex's flagship Submariner model has risen in value, analysts at Berenberg Bank noted in a recent report.

Montblanc, owned by Richemont, announced in January the launch of the TimeWalker Urban Speed e-strap watch, which combines a traditional mechanical watch with an interchangeable strap containing a Bluetooth connected device.

That offers "the best of both worlds", according to Berenberg's luxury goods analyst, Bassel Choughari. He said this is less risky than the strategy of LVMH's Tag Heuer, which has partnered with an as-yet-undisclosed U.S. tech company to produce a watch outside Switzerland.

"It creates a bit of a grey area between Swiss-made and probably made-in-China products, so that could be a bit difficult to manage over time," Choughari said of the danger to brands.

Guess Inc has also announced plans to launch a smartwatch line called Guess Connect later this year.

The new models, which come in sporty and jewel-encrusted versions, will link wirelessly to a user’s nearby Apple or Google Android smartphone. Guess says these will be compatible with thousands of existing mobile phone apps and can be controlled from the watch using voice activated commands.

Fossil Group, another U.S.-based fashion group, has toyed with smartwatches since 2003. A year ago, it said it would produce a smartwatch based on Google’s Android Wear software, and in September, it said it had partnered with chipmaker Intel Corp.

It too early to know whether the Apple Watch, whose price tags run as high as $17,000 for its yellow or rose gold models, will steal share from the Swiss industry, which sells about 30 million watches a year.

The threat that Apple will cannibalize existing watch demand is most acute for Swatch, analysts say, because it has the highest proportion of products selling for a few hundred dollars, instead of several thousands as high-end names do.

If Apple sells 20 million watches in the first year, as some analysts estimate, and all of those purchases divert buyers from other watch brands, Swatch could suffer a 6 percent hit to annual revenue, according to a calculation by Barclays analysts.

Apple Watch

Watch connoisseur Steve Baktidy says he is interested in the Apple Watch but only as a tech gadget to play with. But he also welcomed efforts by luxury makers to introduce more tech features of their own.

"Absolutely I'll buy one (from Apple) but it's not going to replace my everyday watch," said Baktidy, owner of two auto body repair shops in New York and two dozen watches by luxury brands including Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Breitling and Omega.

(Additional reporting by Pascale Denis in Paris, Tom Miles in Geneva and Harro ten Wolde in Frankfurt; editing by David Stamp)

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A designer is creating customized Rolex watches inspired by gun engravings, starting at $10,000

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MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 41

MadeWorn is a still pretty new company (founded in 2013) which is the latest project by the well-respected and successful Mr. Blaine Halvorson. Blaine also happens to be a watch guy and recently began an interesting journey that others just like him have taken in the past - to include timepieces in his lifestyle concept in a way that works for his particular tastes and aesthetic. How people like Mr. Halvorson do this really depends on the individual, their connections, and how insanely deep they want to go into the mire which is trying to produce products in the world of watches.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 1MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 4Blaine decided on an interesting angle that combines some unique elements as well as those greatly admired by many collectors in the watch industry - to take Rolex watches and use legendary American gun engravers to embellish the core look of a Rolex with incredible surface decoration. Blaine's challenge, in my opinion, is properly including these one-of-a-kind timepiece creations within his MadeWorn brand, and deciding how to create an image for his watches that consumers understand.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 19MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 14

Meeting Halverson at his private, appointment-only retail and workshop space in Los Angeles, we sat down to talk watches, art, and brand building. Halvorson, like many of his contemporaries, is both a craftsman and an artist - who himself is a walking manifestation of his aesthetic, decorated with carefully curated clothing and tattoos. MadeWorn is really the dream project he wanted to do since the start, and was able to do after the sale of his successful business Junkfood Clothing in 2005. Today Halvorson collects stuff, build clothing and accessories, and hangs out in what I can easily describe is one of the most interesting retail spaces in all of Los Angeles.

The story of Halvorson runs a lot deeper than these watches and my brief description of him. Once I get to know him better, I can share his tale with you. I mention this because stepping into his world and seeing what means a lot to him is enough to have you asking questions, because not everyone likes - for example - taxidermy as much as him.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 24MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 27

Part of the MadeWorn aesthetic can be understood by knowing that Blaine Halvorson grew up in Bozeman, Montana and enjoyed a very outdoorsy life from the time he was a small boy. His rustic, Americana sense of art is about discovering what was once lost, nature, and producing things by hand. Halvorson is very much a creative director, but he is also a craftsman who does things like cobble shoes, which he sells to clients for between about $900 and $3,000 per pair.

One thing Halvorson can't do is hand-engrave timepieces. Inspired by decoratively engraved guns, Halvorson found some of his favorite American gun engravers, and ask them to do some watch projects for him. Blaine isn't the first person to think of this, and in fact, watch making is something that still has a home nearby where he grew up. Bozeman has the Bozeman Watch Company, and nearby is also the Montana Watch Company that also has timepieces with engraved cases inspired by gun engravings. Several yeas ago, I reviewed the Montana Watch Company 1930 hand-engraved watch here.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 28MadeWorn's approach is more like that of Bamford Watch Department - a company who has some parallels to what MadeWorn is doing. Bamford is a Rolex watch modifier who takes new Rolex watches and changes their textures and colors. MadeWorn, with its still very new collection of watches, takes new or vintage Rolex watches and customizes them with engravings or special bracelets. In fact, Halvorson likes the term "carvings" more than engravings, as it implies more manual labor.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 9MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 15MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 16

Speaking of manual labor, I had to ask Halvorson if the engravers ran into problems while decorating the cases and bracelets of these Rolex watches. Modern Rolex timepieces use a very hard form of steel which is an alloy called 904L. In addition to being very corrosion resistant 904L steel is very difficult to machine. Engravers typically like working with softer metals such as gold, silver, or brass. While I didn't have a chance to discuss it with the engravers, Blaine did respond that the engravers offered a lot of complaints about the difficulty of engraving each watch.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 18MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 38MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 21

Well, despite complaints, the resulting engravings are gorgeous and done with extreme precision. These are world-class decorations that you'd find on the finest guns or blades. I am a big fan of engraved decorations on watches - and while I personally am not into tattoos, I don't mind them at all on a wrist watch. According to MadeWorn, each of their watches takes about a month to engrave, and no two timepieces will be made alike.

For that reason, each engraved Rolex that MadeWorn offers will be a piece unique. From a logistical standpoint, that makes things tough for Halvorson. If he wants to produce these watches with any type of volume, he is going to need to constantly get new watches as a base, and then work with the engravers to come up with interesting designs. It is entirely possible that in the future, MadeWorn will offer a limited edition version, or engraved timepieces that aren't Rolex - but for now, the MadeWorn watches will all be based on Rolex timepieces that they acquire.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 22MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 25MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 32

In some instances, MadeWorn will black DLC-coat the engraved watch, which adds an additional interesting look. For example, I was able to compare two engraved Rolex Explorer watches, with one in steel and one in DLC black steel. While the black option is cool, in my opinion, it is best to go with steel models, because you can see the engravings much better. Moving forward, some MadeWorn watches in black might have inlay colors to bring out the engravings more. In many senses, producing unique pieces allows for a lot of creativity and experimentation.

My favorite of the several engraved Rolex watches I was able to see at MadeWorn was an all steel Datejust II. It was very interesting to see the world's "business watch" filled with meticulous and attractive decoration. I wouldn't say that it is for everyone, but for people like me who appreciate "artistic density," this is an amazing (and expensive) item that checks off a lot of "I want" boxes. If you are more into minimalist Scandinavian-style design, then you'll probably not be so into a classic watch that has its clean lines sullied with hours and hours of tiny hand-carved pictures. MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 29MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 24You don't need to be a fan of MadeWorn to enjoy their watches. In a sense, the timepieces are very much a different beast from the typical (if there is any) clothing items that MadeWorn is known for. At the same time, they all go together, if you so choose. I'm really happy that Blaine spends time assembling the right talent to produce these beautiful creations, and for many watch lovers, I think this is a great way to combine a few of their passions together into one timepiece. MadeWorn, of course, is open to special projects, because at the end of the day, what Halvorson is all about is bringing together people with a creative vision and making something cool out of it.MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 35MadeWorn Engraved Rolex watch 39Prices for these one-of-a-kind customized Rolex watches vary, starting at about $10,000 and go up from there. Each of them takes the base value of a new or used Rolex watch and adds about a month of artistic labor. Seen in this article, the engraved Rolex Explorer on the leather strap is priced at $12,000. The engraved Rolex Datejust on the custom bracelet with turquoise stones is$16,000. This engraved Rolex Explorer on the bracelet is $22,000. The engraved Rolex Datejust II on the bracelet is $24,000. The DLC-coated black engraved Rolex Explorer on the bracelet is $26,000, and an already sold engraved DLC-coated Datejust II was $28,000. madeworn.com

SEE ALSO: When to buy your first Rolex

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NOW WATCH: You've been doing pull-ups all wrong

Swatch CEO bashes the concept of a smartwatch

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Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek wears the new 'Swatch Touch Zero One' during the Swiss watchmaker's annual news conference in Corgemont March 12, 2015. REUTERS/Denis Balibouse

Swatch on Thursday unveiled an expanded range of its "Swatch Touch" smartwatch range and additional functions for its watches, but its chief executive said the company was not looking to produce a wearable mobile phone.

"We don't want to produce a mini mobile phone on your wrist," Swatch Chief Executive Nick Hayek told a news conference for the group's full-year results.

"Others can do that."

The comments come after Apple launched its long-awaited watch on Monday, including yellow or rose gold models with sapphire faces costing up to $17,000, which had been seen as major to Switzerland watchmaking industry.

(Reporting By Tom Miles; Writing by Joshua Franklin)

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NOW WATCH: Here's the unlikely story of how auto-tune was created

The pricing strategy for the Apple Watch is insanely smart

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Apple Watch vs Swiss Watch

How do you price a new type of smart watch at $600 (£410), or more, when the market price is below $300 (£205)? That’s the problem Apple faced when the time came to devise a pricing strategy for the Apple Watch.

The following chart shows that Apple has successfully managed to maintain the average selling price (ASP) of the iPhone – the company’s most valuable product – at above the $600 (£410) level for the last six years. The reason why the average selling price (ASP) of the iPad had dropped is due to the introduction of the iPad mini, and the introduction of lower-price iPod models also explains why the ASP of the iPod has dropped over time.

Apple Watch Gen Research3

Here are a couple of insights we can glean from this:

  • Don’t place an upper limit on the price at the point of launch: You would not want to set up the Apple Watch product strategy in such a way that the entry price represented a price ceiling. If you did that then you’d know that you may eventually be forced to introduce lower-price models that would then result in the same downwards trend that has affected the iPad and iPod;
  • Try to prevent rivals from developing lower-priced alternatives that will cannibalise sales: The iPhone had managed to avoid the fate of the iPad and iPod because it has not been feasible for rivals to develop a clearly distinct segment within the premium smartphone market at a lower price.

    The only way to reduce the ASP in the smartphone market was to either develop a physically smaller device (which would damage usability) or reduce the functionality. The market has taken the latter course which explains why we are seeing very low-price models being sold in price-sensitive markets - but these devices have not been affecting demand in the premium segment, which is where Apple and Samsung are competing.

The watch market has given Apple the perfect opportunity to execute what I think will be seen in years to come as an extremely astute pricing strategy – that will allow the company to effectively guarantee that the ASP will be well above the entry level of $349 (£239), and probably some way above $600 (£410).

It is clear to me that Apple has spent a lot of time studying the Swiss watch industry: in spite of manufacturing just 29 million finished watches in 2014, representing just 2.3% of worldwide industry production volume, Swiss watchmakers accounted for nearly 67% of retail expenditure.

This picture is even more distorted if you take a look at the top end of the Swiss watch market, which is defined as watches that retail for over $10,000 (£6,800): this rarefied segment accounted for just 0.1% of worldwide production volume in 2014 – but 48.5% of retail expenditure.

This goes some way towards explaining what Apple is trying to achieve with its seemingly bizarre pricing strategy for the Apple Watch, where prices start at a reasonable $349 (£239) but then go all the way up to $15,000 (£10,200).

To understand what is going on here, I firstly divided Apple’s watch market into three broad price segments:

  • Entry: $349 to $1,000 (£239 to £680)
  • Mid: $1,300 to $5,000 (£880 to £3,500)
  • Luxury: $5,500 to $15,000 (£3,750 to £10,200)

I then needed to estimate the sales level for each of these segments.

The starting point for this is our projection that Apple will sell 20.5 million Apple Watch units this calendar year - if you’re interested in understanding where this figure comes from then you will find plenty of background in the 2015 edition of Generator Research's Smart Watches report.

I then prepared three different uptake scenarios which were modelled on the reality of the Swiss watch industry, where shipment volumes are heavily skewed towards the lower price bands while value is heavily skewed towards the upper price bands.

The three uptake scenarios were:

  • Scenario A: Entry @ 95%; Mid @ 4%; Luxury @ 1%
  • Scenario B: Entry @ 90%; Mid @ 8%; Luxury @ 2%
  • Scenario C: Entry @ 85%; Mid @ 11%; Luxury @ 4%

This now gives us sales levels for each of the three price segments, for each of the three scenarios.

The next step is to estimate the revenues.

To do this I developed some plausible demand curves which were based on sub-dividing each of the three price segments into 14 sub-segments - with unit sales decreasing on a straight-line basis from the lowest price to the highest price. I adjusted the elasticity in each of the three segments to reflect the fact that people in the Luxury segment are clearly less price sensitive than those in the Entry segment.

The result was a set of demand curves that look like this:

Apple Watch Gen Research2

We can now calculate the revenues for each of the sub-segments and therefore, each of the price segments for each of the three demand scenarios.

This results in the following table:

Apple Watch Gen Research1

Here’s what we can say from this analysis:
  • The base case is where the Apple Watch is just one price ($349, £239) which would mean that the revenues for 2015 would be $7.2 billion (£4.9 billion). All of Apple’s rivals are operating a price model that either involves a single price or a number of closely-related prices (compared, that is, to the massive difference between the entry level and top end prices of the Apple Watch);
  • Basic economics tells us that a ‘flat rate’ pricing strategy is sub-optimal because it fails to extract the maximum revenue from every buyer. With the iPhone, Apple is stuck with a ‘flat rate’ pricing model because pricing in the premium segment of the smartphone market is quite concentrated. But that is not the case in the Swiss watch market, which provides Apple with a great opportunity to move to a revenue-maximising pricing strategy for the Apple Watch;
  • If 95% of unit sales of the Apple Watch were in the $349 (£239) to $1,000 (£680) segment, with just 1% in the $5,500 to $15,000 segment (£3,750 to £10,200, Scenario A) then this would have the effect of doubling the average selling price from $349 (£239) to $748 (£478) and doubling revenues from $7.2 billion to $15.2 billion (£4.9 billion to £10 billion);
  • In the most optimistic scenario (Scenario C), where 4% of unit sales of the Apple Watch are in the luxury segment, then the revenue earned by the luxury segment for calendar 2015 would be $8 billion (or 33% of total revenues, £5.45 billion) while revenues for all three segments for 2015 would be $24.1 billion (£16.40 billion) – or nearly 3x the base case.

To me the conclusion is that Apple has been very clever in how it has priced the Apple Watch – even more so when one realises that most sales in the $5,500 to $15,000 (£3,750 to £10,200) luxury segment will be incremental to sales of Swiss luxury watches: most buyers will see an Apple Watch as an additional device, not a substitutional device.

We already know that the high average selling price of the iPhone has allowed Apple to accumulate around 80% of smartphone industry device profits – and that was with an average selling price of about $600 (£410).

In the long run, when manufacturing processes are mature, then because the Apple Watch has a lower mass and contains less electronics than an iPhone, it will actually cost less to produce. When combined with the higher ASP then the Apple Watch is set to be even more profitable for Apple than the iPhone.

Andrew Sheehy is chief analyst at Generator Research

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NOW WATCH: A British artist did something incredible with snow

The new watch from Patek Philippe was one of the biggest surprises at this year’s Baselworld

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patek philippe calatrava travel time1

What you are looking at here is the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 introduced at Baselworld 2015. Yes, it is an unmistakably pilot-style watch from Patek Philippe. Your eyes are not kidding you.

Patek Philippe has got to be one of the most unpredictable brands in recent times. Most recently, the company announced that it would revise its prices and that resulted in most regions receiving price cuts. Although this is not the first time Patek Philippe has done so, it comes at a time when the Swiss Franc has appreciated significantly and other powerhouses like Rolex and Audemars Piguet have increased their prices. And at Baselworld 2014 last year, it released a high-complication steel watch, the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5960 (hands-on). That was a watch that caught everyone off guard and got everyone excited, and this year, Patek Philippe is at it again.

Provenance is, of course, extremely crucial when it comes to high-end watchmaking, and before you dismiss the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524, it is important to know that Patek Philippe does have a history of making pilot watches, and for military use, to boot.

Before the Second World War, in the 1930s, Patek Philippe did in fact manufacture pilot watches for specific military use. These special watches were known as “hour-angle” watches, and they had hour hands that would go round the dial once every 24 hours, and as they did, they would also point to the degrees of arc that were marked on the dial. This supposedly aided navigation. One of these watches was auctioned by Christies in 2009 for over $1.7 million.patek philippe calatrava travel time dialSo with the pedigree of the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Time Ref. 5524 firmly established, let us now take a closer look at the watch. Unlike most pilot watches, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 has a dark navy blue dial with grained finishing, and also matching blue hours and minute hands.

The hands for the second timezone is skeletonized. The large arabic numerals are applied white gold markers, filled with SuperLuminova, as are the hours and minutes hands - the hand for the second timezone is not. At 6 o’clock is a large date subdial, and flanking it are apertures that serve as day/night indicators for the two timezones. The layout is very sensible and legible.patek philippe calatrava travel time dial2The case is 42mm wide, rendered in white gold, and is fully mirror polished. The big unguarded crown sits at 3 o’clock and at 8 and 10 o’clock you have thick-looking pushers that are used to adjust local time. These pushers also feature patent-pending safety locks to prevent the wearer from unintentionally adjusting the time. The pushers must be released first with a quarter turn before they can be activated, and once adjustment is done, the wearer can lock the pushers in place by turning in the opposite direction.

Enabling all of this is Patek Philippe’s caliber CH 324 S C FUS, a 294 part self-winding movement that features Patek Philippe’s special Gyromax balance and Spiromax spring, both made out of Silvinar, Patek Philippe’s own special blend of silicon. The movement is visible through the sapphire case back, and as you would expect, beautifully finished with chamfered bridges, Geneva striping, perlage, snailed flanks and a large circular-grained 21k gold rotor. The movement is also certified with the Patek Philippe Seal - this means it is rigorously regulated to a tolerance of just -3/+2 seconds a day.patek philippe calatrava travel time side

The watch is paired with a vintage brown calfskin strap and comes with what Patek Philippe calls a clevis prong buckle, which is made with white gold, of course. According to Patek Philippe, this was inspired by the harnesses worn by pilots that kept their survival kits and parachutes readily deployable without hampering their freedom of movement.

I think it is safe to say that this is easily one of Patek Philippe’s most interesting and unusual new releases in a long time, and it will certainly divide opinions. However, it can also be interpreted as a sign that the brand is ready to break out of its mold and try on new things, and this can only be a good thing for all watch enthusiasts. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 is priced at 42,000 CHF. patek.com

SEE ALSO: Patek Philippe created one of the most complicated wristwatches in history for $2.6 million — here’s what we thought of it

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NOW WATCH: Here's Tim Cook answering all your questions about the Apple Watch

Arnold Schwarzenegger just debuted his own watch brand named after himself

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arnoldwatchbrandthumb

Arnold Schwarzenegger has just taken the ultimate plunge as a serious watch lover and launched his own brand of eponymously named watches with the new Arnold Schwarzenegger watch brand.

Most of the Arnold Schwarzenegger watches will be priced in the $600 - $1,500 range and represent Arnold's character, career, and timepiece preferences. I sat down with Arnold Schwarzenegger at Baselworld 2015 to chat about watches, his collection, and why now was the time to start his own watch collection with his name on the dial.

And, yes of course, the watches are massive. Even the ladies' versions are 45mm wide.

Arnold Schwarzenegger is an impressively accessible person who very much feels like the sum of his life which combines being an athlete, businessman, actor, and politician. Friendly and charismatic, Schwarzenegger continues to pursue his passions as someone who seems to genuinely enjoy what life has brought him.

As a watch and car lover, Arnold agreed that the highlights of his year are going to classic car week & the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance near Monterey, California, as well as Baselworld.

Arnold Schwarzenegger has made a brand out of the man that he has created over his lifetime of effort. Come to think of it, at least on an external level, Arnold Schwarzenegger epitomizes the definition of a "man's man."

Arnold Schwarzenegger is an archetype of masculinity. He has been on a four decade winning streak, is a self-made made man, and whether or not his tastes fit your own, this is a person who commands respect like very few people living today.

Arnold Schwarzenegger watches 2015 2Is it a natural step for this watch lover to become a watch designer? Schwarzenegger claims to have wanted to produce his own watches for a while now, and the Arnold Schwarzenegger watch collection for 2015 is due to a fortunate connection with what is Brazil's largest watch producer.

That's right, Arnold Schwarzenegger is working with the Brazilian Magnum Group to produce Swiss Made watches. In turn, the Magnum Group has taken this fortunate relationship extremely seriously, bending over backwards in ways few other groups would have done in order to make Arnold's dream a reality.

You might have expected Arnold Schwarzenegger to partner with a more well-known brand among watch lovers (such as Audemars Piguet that he has worked for extensively in the past) but there are some unique benefits to working with the Magnum Group.

First is what I mentioned above about the team of Brazilian designers and engineers working closely under Arnold's direction. Schwarzenegger proudly shared how their team flew to his home in Los Angeles from Brazil on a regular basis for a year and a half to work directly with him on designs and concepts.

Second is the fact that with their manufacturing capacity and know how, they can produce accessibly priced timepieces as well as special high-end models with diamonds (Arnold has been known to love diamonds on some of his watches from time to time).

Arnold Schwarzenegger watches 2015 10Think about the logic of this decision for a moment. If Arnold Schwarzenegger was to partner with a major group like the Swatch Group, Richemont, or LVMH to produce timepieces he would merely be a name associated with the venture and would be under the whim, schedule, and decisions of the group.

Arnold doesn't have the time or desire or set up his own factory, so his best bet is to work with a partner who truly wanted to materialize his vision while making it comfortable for him. As major as Arnold Schwarzenegger is, I can't see a major Swiss company sending people to his home all the time to discuss designs as well as allow him to produce what he really wants unless it perfectly melds with their marketing plans and schedules.

So the more you think about it, the more it makes perfect sense why working with a company that is not that well-known outside of Brazil was a great fit for Mr. Schwarzenegger during this watch endeavor.

So what will the Arnold Schwarzenegger watch brand be like, and where will it be sold? As of March 2015, a large series of prototype watches are available for us to play with and get an understanding of the brand but it will not be until closer to Q3 or Q4 2015 before Arnold Schwarzenegger watches will be ready to buy.

With that said, we have an extremely good idea of what the collections will be like and the various styles and themes. To put that into perspective, there are over 100 different SKUs in the Arnold Schwarzenegger watch collection right now, but the company's representatives are clear on the fact that the final retail collection will be smaller.

However, by nature, the Arnold Schwarzenegger watches will be massive, both in size and scope. They will be Swiss Made with sapphire crystals, and containing both quartz and mechanical movements. We are talking about someone with so many major careers, and the brand will focus on three major eras of Arnold Schwarzenegger's life.

Arnold Schwarzenegger Watches for 2015  2First are his athletic bodybuilding days, next are his action hero actor days, and last is his time as a politician. Of course, some of these eras flow together, but these are the concepts behind the major product families which, according to the press materials, are:

- THE LEGEND COLLECTION - Inspired by the metallic, military style tools and weight room equipment, reminiscent of Schwarzenegger’s early career.
- THE HERO COLLECTION - Conjures images of Schwarzenegger in his most iconic roles.
- THE HERITAGE COLLECTION - presents a sleek line of authoritative classic timepieces that convey a man of strength and leadership, with an edge.

The Arnold Schwarzenegger Legend collection includes the Iron models, The Hero collection includes the Commander, Caliber, Hunter, and T1983 model ranges, and the Heritage collection includes the Governor, and GT38 model families.

The Arnold Schwarzenegger Legend and Hero collections will use Swiss Ronda quartz movements, and the Heritage collection will have Swiss mechanical automatics mostly from Sellita. Case sizes range between about 45mm and 58mm, with water resistance of 100 meters.

Arnold Schwarzenegger spent several minutes speaking in depth about the first collection of watches inspired by his time in the gym as a body builder. As a watch lover worth his weight in Everose gold, Arnold is keenly attuned to small details like the quality of a watch strap.

Arnold recalled how amazed he was at the quality of the industrial leather used for his original weight lifting belt from the 1960s. According to him, he wanted high-quality watch straps that would look good over 40 years after being used. For Arnold, durability and longevity seem to be part of how he nerds out on timepieces and other gear (the man owns a tank), so appropriate details on his timepieces make a lot of sense.

Arnold Schwarzenegger watches 2015 5The bodybuilding watch collection has design elements inspired by things like dumbbells and gym equipment. The rear of the case says "No Pain No Gain." From his action hero days, you'll see things that recall The Terminator, Predator, True Lies, and many more of the military or action movies that helped make Arnold Schwarzenegger the household name that he is today.

One of the watches has part of a skull on the dial with a red eye which is clearly a nod to the T-800 android from The Terminator. Another model has a crown with a small pin that is meant to resemble a grenade pin as a testament to all the weapon-wielding characters he has played over the years.

The variety of Arnold Schwarzenegger watches is sort of staggering. Sure, not all of them will make it to final production or be commercially successful, but that really isn't the point for Mr. Schwarzenegger. You have to remember that he isn't doing any of this for money.

In fact, much of what would be his profits will go to support his longstanding and acclaimed After-School All-Stars program designed to get kids more involved in fitness. Arnold isn't doing it for the money, Arnold is doing a watch brand because the watch lover in him really wants to.

Arnold Schwarzenegger Watches for 2015 aBlogtoWatch 6Arnold shared with me an interesting story of how he started to really get into watches. According to him he never recalls having not been into watches, but it wasn't until his Hollywood career that he started to become a major collector. It seems to have happened as a result of working with producers in movies to select the right watches for his characters to wear.

He said that sometimes 50 or more watches would be laid out in front of him, and they would need to carefully select those watches that fit the persona he was going for in the movie. Oftentimes that persona was a strong, masculine fighter.

Arnold recalls that even back then, he felt disappointed with the timepiece options available to him. "I hate it when watches get lost on my wrist," he says, when explaining his preference for larger watches. Arnold has impressively wide wrists and very large hands, so anything under 45mm wide simply looks petite on him.

It isn't that Schwarzenegger likes large watches per se, but rather that he likes timepieces which proportionally look good on him. If he were half the size, he would probably be wearing smaller timepieces.

Arnold Schwarzenegger Watches for 2015 aBlogtoWatch 9Arnold Schwarzenegger has rarely been seen wearing timepieces under 50mm wide, and that size should help you understand the relative diameter of what most Arnold Schwarzenegger watches will be. With that said, both the shape and diameter of the Arnold Schwarzenegger watch collection will vary.

Plus, with a specially curated selection of straps they prove comfortable on most wrists. The timepieces are also colorful and dynamic - with some feeling almost toy-like. As a watch collector, Arnold Schwarzenegger does have an appreciation for fine watch making and haute horology, but for him, timepieces are about communicating your tastes and lifestyle.

Few people can pull off a watch quite like Arnold Schwarzenegger, and it feels as though all of the watches in his collection have been made for himself before anyone else. Arnold seems to understand that he chose rather avant-garde timepieces which are not about being timeless or classic, but are rather meant to appeal to a very specific type of person who can relate with Schwarzenegger himself.

In a sense, this is a very rare opportunity to own a product that a famous celebrity really designed for himself. Arnold Schwarzenegger timepieces are a uniquely personal look into his mind and tastes. They also represent some of the types of things he has been looking for outside the watch world norm. I got the impression Arnold Schwarzenegger did not want to merely adapt the style of other watches he likes out there, but really create something new.

I will admit that if I just walked by these watches without knowing they had something to do with Arnold Schwarzenegger, I would, personally, just keep on walking and not take too much of a closer look. These are not classic or fine timepieces in the sense that they are meant to compete in terms of style or price with other watches such as Audemars Piguet and Panerai - which are known favorites of Arnold. I am also happy to hear that Arnold and the Magnum team are aware that various changes need to be made in order for the Arnold Schwarzenegger watches to be ready for prime time, including refining the hands and legibility.

The "Schwarzeneggerian" element of the designs pulls me in a bit like a good story in a watch should. I am captivated by the little stories each watch tells and the idea that each piece is large enough to show it.

Arnold Schwarzenegger Watches for 2015 aBlogtoWatch 4I would likely opt for one of the models with a more simple dial, but I think at the end of the day, there is going to be an Arnold Schwarzenegger watch in the brand that speaks to each of his fans - even if it is just a fun collectible or novelty to wear once in a while. It feels special knowing that Arnold Schwarzenegger's name isn't merely on the dial, but is the product of so much of his own time and intentions.

As I said above, the scope and breadth of the collection is broad, and some of the Arnold Schwarzenegger watches have analog/digital dials, and some are purely mechanical with Swiss Sellita automatic movements. Colorful and bold, there is an honesty to the design which eschews marketing BS and feels as though these designs genuinely act as an extension of Governor Schwarzenegger himself.

What most people seem to forget - even after they meet him - is that Arnold Schwarzenegger is a self-driven man as well as a trained politician. What makes him different from many other people in the watch industry or Hollywood is that looking at his history you really never get the impression Arnold has done things to impress anyone other than himself or attain acceptance from the "public..." as is common among internally self-conscious narcissistic egotists who often populate the entertainment and luxury worlds.

Arnold certainly has charisma and has benefited from the training his political career gave him, but he seems genuinely concerned about other people when interacting with them. He does an excellent job of making you feel like the absolute center of his attention when he is meeting with you - and he comes across as being both passionate, honest, and interesting.

Thankfully, I do think he is all of those things, and I am happy to report that meeting this childhood hero of mine was a very positive experience. Arnold is The Terminator, the Governator, and now perhaps The Watchinator?

The colorful, bold, and intense designs that compose the Arnold Schwarzenegger watch brand are anything but mainstream in their appeal, but at the same time, Arnold Schwarzenegger him is. Will everyone who has a place for Arnold Schwarzenegger in their heart want to get one of these timepieces even though their designs are clearly not for everyone?

arnoldthumbPerhaps, just for days when they need a little Arnold-inspired courage and machismo to boost them along? These are all questions which his fans will need to answer for themselves - and if anyone is doing a watch brand for the right reasons, it is Arnold Schwarzenegger, who has turned one of his passions into an extension of his lifestyle and personal brand.

Arnold Schwarzenegger isn't likely to give up wearing timepieces in his collection of "drawers and drawers of watches." That isn't what having his own brand is all about. This is part of his personal legacy that will last as long as he and his memory survives in our collective culture. His watch brand will likewise exist as an extension of our desire for timepieces and a love of all things Arnold.

As of now, the typical price range of Arnold Schwarzenegger watches will be $565 to $2,790, and the first watches should be available for sale around September 2015.

SEE ALSO: The 6 hottest watch trends of 2015

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NOW WATCH: 6 Crazy Things Revealed In HBO's Explosive New Scientology Documentary 'Going Clear'

A Manhattan watch brand just unveiled the most extravagant timepiece we've ever seen

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Jacob Co Astronomia Tourbillon watch 4

Last year in 2014, Jacob & Co. debuted a very interesting watch with an extravagant movement they called the Astronomia Tourbillon.

I didn't get a chance to personally see the piece when they debuted it, and I am not sure if the original Astronomia Tourbillon case style was even actually delivered, since according to these new 2015 Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon pictures, there is a totally new case design.

The sheer complexity of the movement in the watch requires a lot of tweaking to make it work and years of effort. For 2015, however, it looks like the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is back with a new case design as well as a very much "Jacob & Co." version called the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette that comes with a lot of diamonds.

Below, you can see a video from last year of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon in action. Much of the movement is placed on a series of four arms that rotate around the entire dial each 20 minutes. Those arms also move to create other actions such as keeping the dial to indicate the time in the proper orientation, as well as operating the tourbillon.

 

Taken together, the entire ballet of gear work in the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is almost hard to believe. More so, as much as you may like or be ambivalent to what Jacob & Co. produces, you have to give it to them that they understand showmanship is an important part of the luxury watch industry.

Jacob Co Astronomia Tourbillon watch 11Compared to the large sapphire crystal bubble dome over the initial Astronomia design, this new 2015 case makes a bit more sense.

We are still looking at computer renders, but I am confident that the smaller pieces of sapphire crystal (which are now divided into a series of windows and one large one over the top) with the additional metal makes for a more plausible, wearable design. According to the brand, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is 50mm wide and 25mm thick. The case is in 18k rose gold, and there is a version with and without diamonds.

Notice the lack of crowns or pushers on the case? The movement is actually set and would via two "bow-style" fold out crowns on the rear of the case. The movement, which is, of course, the most interesting element of the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon, is the exclusive to Jacob & Co. caliber JCEM01, with 48 hours of power reserve and a tourbillon that operates at 2.5Hz. Surprisingly, the movement is produced from just 235 parts - which seems very efficient given the complexity of the concept.

TJacob Co Astronomia Tourbillon watch 5echnically, because the tourbillon moves around the entire dial each 20 minutes, it is a triple axis tourbillon. The other axis is the normal spinning you see from a tourbillon cage, as well as being spun in its connection arm. It sits opposite the dial for telling the time to help balance out the weight. The other two arms have a small hand-painted titanium representation of earth, and its opposite arm has a rotating disco ball that makes one full rotation each 60 seconds.

Really, disco ball? Well, that is what I am calling it. Jacob & Co. claims that the spherically cut diamond uses an exclusive cutting process debuted by Jacob & Co to cut a diamond with 288 facets. This round diamond is supposed to represent the moon - which makes me wonder what "night life" would be like on your planet if our moon was actually a large disco ball too.

While the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon movement looks and sort of feels like it offers astronomical complications - it really only does so in concept. This is really a movement made for viewing pleasure, versus strict functionality - and in that, it succeeds.

Jacob Co Astronomia Tourbillon watch 7If the "standard" Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon isn't enough, you can opt for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette, which replaces the watch face's night/space sky with baguette-cut diamonds. The diamonds are invisibly-set on the dial and lugs, totaling 342 stones weighting 16 carats. While I personally can't see myself as a buying customer of a Jacob & Co. Astronomia the fact that there might be a few people out there who can enjoy this sort of wrist-worn mechanical entertainment delights me.

Once again, Jacob & Co. set out to shock, amuse, and please... which is exactly what I feel that Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon is all about. Price for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon (without diamonds) is 540,000 Swiss Francs (right now about $548,000) and price for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon Baguette is 1,000,000 Swiss Francs (right now about $1,015,000).

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10 incredible new watches to add to your collection

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The aBlogtoWatch team had a difficult time (as always) selecting our list of the top 10 watches of Baselworld 2015. The watches on the list are by no means the only good watches from the show, but represent our relatively democratic agreement of what we feel comfortable recommending to a large pool of people.

If you are into ultra-extravagant complicated timepieces, brands like Breguet, HYT and Jacob & Co. certainly have something for you. If you like more demure dress watches, then Bulgari, Frederique Constant, and Zenith all have things you’ll be into.

So without further ado, and in no particular order, here is aBlogtoWatch’s list of the top 10 watches for Baselworld 2015.

Rolex Day-Date 40

Rolex Day Date 40 Caliber 3255 ablogtowatch hands on 4

Guessing what Rolex is going to come out with each year is a difficult task that most people get wrong, but oddly, I guessed that a new Day-Date model was on its way – and for 2015, there indeed is a new Rolex President (another name for the Day-Date). Rolex has discontinued the Day-Date II 41mm watch in favor of this brand new Day-Date 40 which is more than just a "facelifted" product. This is a totally new Day-Date watch, with updates concerning the case, bracelet, dial, and movement. The operative term here is “refinement.” The Rolex Day-Date 40 isn’t about changing the Day-Date, it is about making what has been successful better.

The new caliber 3255 movement is more accurate and reliable, the bracelet links have new ceramic inserts for durability and comfort, the dial has more detailed hour markers and decoration, and the case has been carefully refined to really optimize the experience. Rolex has upped the ante with the Day-Date 40, making what they do even better – although, at the same time, it is a product without any real competition in the market. Exclusively in gold or platinum, the prices for the 2015 Rolex-Day Date 40 range from 33,200 CHF in Everose gold to 59,600 CHF in platinum.

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon Constant Escapement aBlogtoWatch 5Classic looks and a lot of cool technology are what we like about the enamel-dialed Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon watch, that includes Ulysse Nardin’s new shock absorbing system in the tourbillon-based in-house made movement. Using a lot of silicon, the movement includes not only a tourbillon, but a constant force system as part of the regulator which has been designed with durability in mind.

Wearing the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon watch is a pleasant experience, offering a handsome classic design with a super legible dial, exposed tourbillon, and clever power reserve indicator display. In 18k white or rose gold, the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon is priced from US$84,000.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M 2015 ablogtowatch hands on 21In 2007, Omega delighted enthusiasts by reintroducing the iconic Seamaster Ploprof from the 1970s. In 2015, Omega updated the Seamaster Proplof 1200M with some new tech, material updates, and more reasons to love this cult dive watch that enthusiast adore. The large and heavy Omega Seamaster Ploprof is now a lot lighter, being rendered entirely in titanium – which also includes the supplied mesh-metal bracelet. 

The watch now uses a ceramic bezel and has a cleaner looking dial without the date. Inside the Seamaster Ploprof 12000M watch for 2015 is Omega’s new 8900 family of in-house movements that is more or less an 8500 movement with the addition of anti-magentic parts and Omega’s new METAS certification – “Co-Axial Master Chronometer.” The new Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer versions aren’t half bad either, but these continue to be pricey timepieces, starting at US$12,500.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze ablogtowatch top10 1Zenith really got its entry-level priced pilot watch right this time. Last year’s Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special watch was a great looking time-only version of the Type 20, but Zenith baffled consumers by including a Swiss Sellita automatic movement versus something produced in-house.

For 2015, Zenith nails it with the new Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze. The new 45mm-wide bronze metal case with the titanium caseback is excellent looking and wraps the vintage look in a case which feels both refined and a bit steampunk. Inside the Zenith Pilot type 20 Extra Special Bronze is an in-house made Zenith Elite caliber 679 automatic movement which the collection had served in the first place. Available later in 2015, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze will be priced at US$7,600.

Tudor Pelagos Blue

Tudor Pelagos MT5612 blue black 3We probably would not have included the Tudor Pelagos with the new blue dial on our top 10 watches of Baselworld 2015 list just for the new color scheme, even though they did it so well. However, in addition to the new blue dial and matching ceramic bezel, the Tudor Pelagos gets a brand new in-house made Tudor movement, known as the MT5612.

With 70 hours of power reserve and a silicon hairspring, the new in-house movement not only offers a more integrated brand experience, but a modest price increase over the outgoing Tudor Pelagos that included a Swiss ETA automatic movement. Price for the Tudor Pelagos Blue is 4,200 Swiss francs.

Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent 7077

Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent 7077 ablogtowatch top10 1When Breguet puts their mind to something, the result is typically very impressive. The brand isn’t too open about their internal research and development, but they are among the few producers of classically-inspired watches that nevertheless utilize interesting and often new mechanical technology. If you are familiar with the basic concept of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre, you will more or less understand the idea behind having two separate drive trains to power the part of the watch that indicates the time and the part of the watch that offers complications.

The Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent starts with a single mainspring system that powers a separate gear train and escapement for the time and for the chronograph. Each of the balance wheels spin at a different rate with a 5Hz balance for the chronograph and a 3Hz balance for the time. It all looks beautiful and is a treat to wear on the wrist for those who love watches because they love mechanical movements. Price for the Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent 7077 is 77,000 Swiss francs in white gold and 77,800 Swiss francs in rose gold.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 ablogtowatch top10It wasn’t until I put the first Carrera watch to come as a result of Jean-Claude Biver’s leadership of TAG Heuer on my wrist, that I could appreciate what he was trying to do with this new model – one that basically just looked like a skeletonized Carrera watch in early press pictures. This watch is going to be controversial among TAG Heuer lovers and it isn’t for everyone, but I think it is a positive move for the brand in its efforts to re-enliven itself as the demographic TAG Heuer. The brand once so popular with younger demographics had lost much of its entry-level appeal, being mostly interesting to more mature watch lovers with a soft place in their heart for the old days of Heuer and people like Steve McQueen.

If TAG Heuer is going to be relevant to the younger demographic, it needs to appeal to their tastes with items that are more affordable. So what does that mean for this 45mm-wide steel and titanium Carrera watch with a dressed-up version of the in-house made caliber 1887 movement – that TAG Heuer is calling the caliber Heuer 01? It means TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver is borrowing from his own success at watch brand Hublot (also an LVMH group company) and offering something with the same type of aesthetic look as the modern Big Bang, but much more affordable and at TAG Heuer. It’s brilliant, will likely piss off a lot of TAG Heuer traditionalists, and will ultimately be a sales success. Price for the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 is 4,900 Swiss francs.

Glashutte Original Senator Observer

Glashutte Original Senator Observer ablogtowatch top10 1Where did all the Glashutte Original Senator sport watches go, such as their Navigator pilot watches and their Sport Evolution models? The Swatch Group’s German watch maker has been focusing on very classic or retro timepieces over the last several years, even though they have really stepped it up in terms of complexity and visual quality. Still, Glashutte Original enthusiasts have been eagerly anticipating a return of Glashutte Original sport watches and the Senator Observer is… well, sort of that. We will call it a transitional model that is certainly sporty, but still with the conservative feel of the brand.

The Glashutte Original Senator Observer comes in a 44mm-wide steel case with a black dial and lovely 18k white gold hands and super legible, lume-painted dial. Inside the watch is the caliber 100-14 automatic movement with a big date indicator, subsidiary seconds dial, and power reserve indicator. Best of all, it comes on a sporty bracelet, in addition to the black leather strap. This is a watch that can be dressed up or down and I think will appeal to a lot of people. Retail price for the Glashutte Original Senator Observer with leather strap is 9,900 euros and 11,100 euros on the bracelet.

Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition

Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition ablogtowatch top10The new Airboss Mechanical Black Edition watch collection from Victorinox Swiss Army takes the popular Airboss family of higher-end timepieces from the brand, and gives them an all-black case and red ring applied to the sapphire crystal. This three-hand model is handsome, legible, and, best of all, affordable.

One thing we can typically say about Victorinox Swiss Army watches is that they offer a lot of value when measured against competitors. More so, even though the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition has a degree of modern looks and a strong masculine feel, this is nevertheless a watch with enough timeless design to keep it relevant on your wrist for years to come. Price for the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition is US$995.

Sarpaneva Northern Lights

Stepan Sarpaneva Northern Lights ablogtowatch top10Stepan Sarpaneva produces much of his own timepieces personally in his workshop in Helsinki. An artist and machinist, he is best known for his distinctive “moon face” moonphase indicator display on many of his watches that is actually inspired by his own face. Quirky and original, timepieces like Sarpaneva's strike a major chord with those who like good watches produced in exclusive batches by passionate artists.

For 2015, Sarpaneva teams up with Black Badger to create the Sarpaneva Northern Lights which takes one of his most successful designs and adds three different Black Badger lume dials in either purple, blue, or green. Black Badger produces not lume paint, but actual luminant composite materials that could be absolute game changers for the watch industry. Limited to just eight watches each, the Sarpaneva Northern Lights watches aren’t just amazingly cool, they are likely the start of a major new material trend. Price for the Sarpaneva Northern Lights limited edition watches is 14,500 euros each.

Our full anaylsis of Baselworld 2015

Baselworld 2015 came and went seemingly faster than previous Baselworld watch trade shows. Maybe that is because team aBlogtoWatch met with so many brands, hour after hour, for a solid week. By our records, we formally met with about 85 watch brands in the hopes of capturing as wide a scope of what is new in the watch world as possible. That includes meetings with the big boy luxury watch makers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, TAG Heuer, Breitling, and many more that represent most of the world’s high-end watch makers, as well as meetings with more mainstream producers of timepieces such as Bulova, Citizen, Seiko, Casio, and Victorinox Swiss Army. More so, we took the time to learn what smaller independent watch makers were doing to innovate and add variety to the world of not only mechanical timepieces, but also some interesting new electronic and smartwatches.Jean Claude Biver TAG HeuerYes, smartwatches. With TAG Heuer’s loud “Biverian” announcement that they will soon release a smartwatch produced in partnership with Google Android Wear and Intel, the watch world was buzzing with plans for how they should adapt to the upcoming Apple Watch or merely offer their own take on dealing with the high-end “connected watch” market. Surprisingly, talk of the Apple Watch (whose April 2015 release date was announced just one week before Baselworld 2015) was not a common topic of conversation during our meetings with watch brands. The aBlogtoWatch team anticipated a lot more questions and discussions regarding what will likely be a highly disruptive product. While some brands certainly had feet in the world of connected electronic watches, comparisons or alternatives to the Apple Watch seemed slim.TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph TourbillonMy guess is that brands did not feel they actually had anything to compete with Apple’s product and simply preferred not to bring it up too much. Other than TAG Heuer’s smartwatch announcement, the new brand Vector soft-launched a new smartwatch concept, Bulgari announced a magnesium Diagono with an NFC chip built in that connects with an electronic locker app, Frederique Constant was extremely bullish on their MMT platform-based Horological Smartwatch, and several year old Kairos finally showed off some close-to-being-complete watches that combine mechanical movements with digital screens.TAG Heuer Google IntelFor the most part, smartwatches are still not a major part of the traditional watch industry, but major groups like Swatch, Fossil, and Timex are clear that smartwatches are part of their short-term future strategies. In a sense, it was refreshing to see mostly traditional products with some lovely innovation and some eye-popping wild novelties destined for the privileged few. Let’s compare for a moment to SIHH 2015 which I determined was about catering to the most high-end demographic of watch buyers with more exclusive, diamond-decorated products that offered little in terms of novel R&D or new models.Patek Philippe Baselworld 2015 Booth

Baselworld is much more about all price brackets, and for the most part, I think it is safe to say that “good value” was something a lot of brands had in mind for their 2015 releases. That means lower priced models not only for the major groups, but also from the high-end independents where lower prices might mean $50,000 versus $100,000. The message to us was that the market was not only interested in lower-priced models, but expensive timepieces that deliver excellent value.

From a visual trend perspective, we were surprised at just how popular the color blue was. Literally all the major groups had impressive new blue-colored watches. That means brand new models in blue, but also a lot of existing models with new blue versions. I don’t know what it was about blue, but many of them were beautiful enough that we didn’t need to ask “why.” I think it is also safe to say that a lot of companies are adding smaller-sized watches to their collections, but at the same time, not abandoning larger-sized watches.Rolex Yacht Master 116655 268655 Everose Gold Ceramic aBlogtoWatch 4It would be incorrect to say that there is a trend toward smaller timepieces, but rather, a trend toward rounding out brand collections to include smaller and larger watches. 40-44mm wide seems to be a common size this year with timepieces under 40mm wide being relatively uncommon, and brand new watches over 45mm wide only existing in the “novelty sport watch category.” Nevertheless,we saw an enormous amount of bold sport watches. Macho timepieces are certainly in, whether it is from a big brand like Omega or from smaller companies who are entirely dedicated to bold sport watches. For me, the message is that more and more companies are understanding the fun, fashionable nature of aggressively designed sport watches for men – and the popularity thereof.Baselworld 2015 aBlogtoWatch top10 2

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Have a look at the world's slimmest chronograph watch

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Piaget Altiplano

Known for creating some of the world’s slimmest complications, Piaget has once again worked its miniaturizing magic—this time creating the world’s thinnest chronograph. The Piaget Altiplano Chronograph is equipped with the company’s new 883P caliber, which is an astounding 4.65 mm thick and is housed in a case just 8.24 mm thick.

The watch’s chronograph function is of the flyback variety, meaning that unlike a traditional chronograph—which requires three presses to stop, reset, and then restart the mechanism for timing intervals—it takes a single press of the pusher at 4 o’clock to reset the hands to zero and then automatically begin a new timing cycle.

Not satisfied with fitting just one complication into the Altiplano’s svelte case, Piaget also equipped the watch with a GMT feature, allowing the subdial at 9 o’clock to display the hours in another time zone. The watch’s movement, which has a power reserve of 50 hours, is finished with circular Côtes de Genève and circular graining.

Starting at $28,000, the Piaget Altiplano Chronograph is available with either a rose-gold case or a white-gold case set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds. The watch will become available for purchase in September.

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Apple will have to wait to launch its new smartwatch in a key market

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Apple watches are displayed following an Apple event in San Francisco, California March 9, 2015. REUTERS/Robert Galbraith/Files

ZURICH (Reuters) - Apple is not able to launch its new smartwatch in Switzerland until at least the end of this year because of an intellectual property rights issue, Swiss broadcaster RTS reported on its website.

The U.S. tech giant cannot use the image of an apple nor the word "apple" to launch its watch within Switzerland, the home of luxury watches, because of a patent from 1985, RTS reported, citing a document from the Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property.

The document, reprinted on the RTS website, was published by trade magazine Business Montres & Joaillerie, RTS said.

The patent is set to finish on Dec. 5 of this year. It currently belongs to William Longe, who owns watch brand Leonard that first filed the patent.

Apple did not immediately respond to a Reuters request for comment. The Swiss Federal Institute of Intellectual Property could not immediately be reached outside of normal business hours.

The Apple Watch, the firm's first new device since Tim Cook became CEO, will be available in stores in nine countries on April 24.

The world's largest watchmaker Swatch unveiled its riposte to Apple's smartwatch last month, announcing a plan to put cheap programmable chips in watches that will let wearers from China to Chicago make payments with a swipe of the wrist.

(Reporting by Joshua Franklin Editing by Jeremy Gaunt)

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This new pilot's watch from Patek Philippe isn't for purists

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Patek Calatrava Pilot

Last year, Patek Philippe released the hyper-cool stainless steel Nautilus 5990 Travel Time, and this year, they've continued the travel theme with a new pilot's watch. In a surprising move, Patek has played to the trends and reached into their history to inspire the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524.

With a classic and rugged design, handy jumping-hour dual time complication and a trick pusher design, this odd-ball Calatrava stands out in Patek's current line up.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 is based on old Patek Philippe hour angle watches that helped pilots calculate their position when used in tandem with a sextant and a radio. The exact reference pieces, which are also known as siderometers, are on display at the Patek Philippe museum and were used to inform the design of this sporty new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time reference 5524.

Nowadays, siderometers are not especially crucial complications, so Patek opted to use their travel time functionality to add some flare to the rather common pilot watch aesthetic. The movement is Patek's CH 324 S C FUS, an automatic movement with 294 parts, 29 jewels, a maximum power reserve of 45 hours, and Patek's Gyromax balance. With support for dual timezones via a local jumping hour hand, day/night indication for both home and local time, and a sub dial for the date, this is a nicely featured and well thought-out design for a travel complication.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524's case is 42mm wide and offered exclusively in white gold. With a thickness of 11.78mm and a lug to lug slightly under 51mm, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time feels excellent on wrist, with a very masculine and sporty appeal (despite the gold case).

Patek Calatrava Pilot

The dial is done in a very dark blue lacquer that appears somewhat grey in all but bright lighting. The hands are blued steel with ample lume and the arabic markers are also generously lumed for low light visibility. Additionally, the supplemental hour hand can be hidden beneath the main hour hand when the owner is not traveling. 

To ensure 30m of water resistance and to protect the time display from accidental change, the pushers for the travel time feature a patent-pending locking pusher design that only requires a light quarter turn of the pusher cap to lock the pusher in place. In hand, this feature feels and works beautifully, and it's an elegant solution that is much more user friendly than a traditional screw-down pusher (especially given that the pushers are on the left side of the case).

Patek Calatrava Pilot

Although the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time may seem like a strange watch for Patek Philippe to produce, I am far from a Patek purist, and I found it to be entirely charming in person. While it's far from an original design, the implementation is strong, the proportions are excellent and, if you want a sport watch in white gold, I'd certainly recommend seeing the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 in person before passing final judgement.

Priced at $47,600 USD mounted on the vintage style brown leather strap seen in the photos, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 is quite expensive, but what did you expect? Like the white gold GMT Master II announced last year, this is precious metal meets luxury wrapped up in a time-proven sporty pilot design.

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Don't buy the Apple Watch – buy a real watch instead (AAPL)

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apple watch 19

The reviews of the Apple Watch are in – and they're brutal.

The gadget goes on sale on Friday. Mainly, it's the tech folks who've checked out what was expected to be the finest smartwatch of them all. And the most fashionable. We'll have to wait for the high-end watch world to offer up its views.

However, if the Apple Watch is less than thrilling, hard to use, flawed – well, that would make it a typical first-generation gadget. Even from Apple. 

But whatever. If you must have one, you will. But you could also put your money into a real watch. 

"Real watch"– I know it's a provocative and snooty concept. The Apple Watch is a toy! The Patek Philippe Calatrava is a true timepiece, an shimmering example of Swiss horological skill and tradition!

Ugh. But let's say you now have some reservations about dropping $650 on the same stainless-steel Apple Watch with a Milanese loop band that the New York Times' Farhad Manjoo spent time with before writing his fairly ambivalent review. Here's what you should do with the money instead.

Use it for a down payment on an Omega Seamaster. You can get a certified pre-owned version for about $3,000. Make payments for a year or so and then own it free and clear. Forever. Because it will last ... forever, if serviced and cared for properly. It's easily the best value there is in high-end Swiss automatic watches. No, it's not a Rolex Submariner. But it's basically the same watch, and it's thousands less.

Omega Seamaster

You could hang onto your $650 first-gen Apple Watch for 30 or 4o or 50 years and it might retain some historic value, but its actual value will be effectively zero. Heck, its actual value will pretty much be zero when the next gen appears in a year or so. This isn't news. Everyone has offered this observation.

Meanwhile, in 30 or 40 or 50 years, assuming the Swiss watch industry doesn't vanish from the Earth, your Omega Seamaster will still tell time and still enable you to go swimming with it on. You kids or grandkids may very well be eyeing it. And you will be able to sell it for at the very least a few hundred and maybe even a few thousands dollars. Over 30 years, it will have cost you $100 a year and served up decades of pleasure. 

Or you could just keep buying Apple Watches. 

All right, so maybe you don't want to spend $650 to start owning a fine Swiss sport watch.

You can buy a very nice Seiko dive watch that will also last forever for about $400 (before online discounts and markdowns). Not Swiss. But rock-solid Japanese, from a watchmaker that's been around for ages. Not as likely to hold its value as the Omega. But not a watch that you'll ever have anything to complain about.

Seiko Diver

So there you have it. Don't spend your money on this awful Apple Watch. Buy a real watch instead.

SEE ALSO: I'm going to buy an Apple Watch — in 3 years

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Here's what fitness experts love and hate about the Apple Watch (AAPL)

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Apple Watch fitness ring

The first reviews for the Apple Watch are officially out, which means health magazines have had their first chance to try out the watch too.

Both Self Magazine, which featured the Apple Watch on the cover of its March issue, and Men's Journal tried out the watch for several days and here's what they came away with.

What the Apple Watch does well as a fitness tracker:

  • Men's Journal's Marissa Stephenson loved the Apple Watch's sit and stand tracker. The watch pings you to stand for at least one minute per hour for 12 hours each day. "This seemed simple, but absolutely wasn’t," Stephenson wrote. And it seems accurate, too — if you half-sit half-stand by leaning over your desk at work, the watch will know.
  • The Stand, Exercise, and Move rings motivate you. Stephenson wrote that filling these rings became a "daily quest." 
  • Self Magazine's Liz Plosser loved that the Apple Watch logs all of your motion and activity — not just exercise. She writes: "And since strapping on the coveted gadget, my 'workouts' have consisted of walking to and from my baby’s bassinet at all hours of the day (and night) and pushing him in a stroller to his pediatrician’s office a half-mile away for newborn check-ups. But Apple Watch gives me credit for that stuff (as it should!). Even when the Watch’s Workout app isn’t open, its accelerometer, along with GPS from your phone, measures all of your physical movement. "

What's missing from the Apple Watch as a fitness tracker:

  • There's no sleep tracking, which both Plosser and Stephenson pointed out."This seemed odd, because the Watch's built-in hardware has everything you need to get a surface-level summary of sleep," Stephenson wrote.
  • It's not waterproof, just water resistant. 
  • Runners might want dedicated GPS tracking, which the Apple Watch doesn't have. "Runners will likely miss the map functions that provide more granular data like elevation gain, altitude, or an actual map of a run," Stephenson writes.
  • The Apple Watch is missing some features hardcore athletes would want. Stephenson notes that the Apple Watch doesn't chart yor heart rate and speed over your workout. To compare running times, you need to stop and start the watch for separate workouts too. 

SEE ALSO: The Apple Watch reviews are (quietly) brutal

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