Watch auctions and dedicated timepiece auction houses are more popular now than ever before, and we'd like to try to explain what you need to know before becoming a potential auction bidder.

Without a doubt, it is an exciting time to be a watch lover, because the world is talking about timepieces more than ever. On the one hand, you have the gradual emergence of the smartwatch industry that, despite concerns from some low-end brands, will likely have the outcome of making people notice wrist watches more than the general public has in the last 20 years.

On the other hand, you have a new form of financial investment mentality surrounding the exciting world of high-end luxury watch auctions and the rising ceiling of potential values, as well as the apparent expanding pool of potential watch buyers. The result isn't just an increasing frequency of watch-themed auctions, but also entire new businesses dedicated to bringing more watches to auction for more people.

I would go so far as to say that the watch auction market is in a bubble. Existing auction houses are increasingly focused on timepieces, and many new auction houses are popping up hoping to attract horological collectors around the world.

I talked about some of the major watch auction houses here on Forbes. There are so many timepiece-related auction houses and so many timepiece-themed auction events, it is, in my opinion, mostly unsustainable for the long run. Many of these events focus on just a few featured auction lots or highlight pieces that the organizers hope will attract major collectors; the rest of the auction lots are far less interesting pieces.

Don't forget that rare and valuable timepieces are actually rare. It isn't common for there to be timepieces such as the Patek Philippe Supercomplication that go for $24,000,000.

The competition for "blockbuster lots" is getting fierce, and in some circumstances, auction houses are accused of unethical conduct in disclosing the provenance of a watch as related to its total authenticity or actual ownership. To that latter point, it should be stated that in many instances, celebrity ownership of a watch can vastly increase its value. There are other factors that I will discuss below, which I feel people interested in participating in watch auctions should know before fully committing to a major purchase or bidding at one of the major watch auction events around the world.

We don't cover watch auctions on aBlogtoWatch that often for pretty specific reasons. First of all, there are so many of them that we could talk about upcoming auctions a few times a week, and the rest of the time discuss their results.

Most of them are just people trying to sell stuff, and so covering them isn't all that interesting to me personally, because it doesn't offer information about new products, interesting techniques, or how to better appreciate timepieces on an intimate level. Further, the yielded prices that auction houses promote aren't those that represent the value of most watches. In fact, in a lot of instances, watches sold at auction are pretty cheap. The lots they highlight are those of a few select timepieces that are pretty rare to begin with, but that tend to circulate at auction a lot.

Mostly, I don't necessarily trust watch auction results in terms of indicating trends or the inherent value of items. An example is that the same model watch can go for $1,000 in one auction and $5,000 in another auction for no other reason than emotions and the people who happen to be paying attention at the event.

Emotions, of course, are important and are the basis of all "collecting" and appreciation of art. Having said that, I personally feel that prices at auctions need to be more about inherent value, rather than competition amongst a select group of privileged buyers. I want to offer a summary of my personal feelings about watch auctions by suggesting that in a huge way, they are very valuable for people looking for good prices on used or older watch models. If, however, you are thinking about watch auctions as an investment vehicle or believe they are a good basis for valuing a brand or its products, then it would be wise to proceed with caution. The auction world is one place where the concept of caveat emptor should be something for people to consider. So here are 10 important things you should know about watch auctions:

1. Timepieces Make Poor Financial Investments

You aren't likely to get rich by purchasing timepieces and later selling them at auction for profit. Most honorable auctioneers will certainly agree. Timepieces are "emotional investments" whose values can fluctuate wildly and on a whim. If you are the type of person who is very good at understanding the mentality behind purchase decisions, and feel like you want to take a stab at manipulating a market then you might have what it takes to be amongst the few people in the world who make money by buying and selling timepieces at auction.

Everyone else should be aware that timepieces make excellent collectibles and are wonderful to learn about and own, but consider them a luxury expense and not an investment vehicle. This is important to think about, because some watch companies, retailers, or auction houses like to suggest the notion of items increasing in value over time, and that purchasing certain timepieces is a "good investment." Watches make as good of an investment as cars do. Most lose a lot of value after being purchased new and have an expected level of depreciation each year. If you are lucky enough to have a car (or watch) that will vastly increase in value and wasn't extremely expensive to begin with, it will most likely only do so long after you have passed away.

2. Provenance Is Not Guaranteed

The fact that a timepiece was owned by a celebrity or important person is, not surprisingly, linked to higher auction values. In my book, The World's Most Expensive Watches I discussed a Longines wrist watch owned by Albert Einstein that went for several hundred thousand dollars at auction, while the same timepiece without its celebrity provenance would have been worth dramatically less. Therefore, the story of who owned a timepiece is, in many instances, worth a lot more than the watch itself. Knowing this, watch auction houses often attempt to bolster the importance of a watch or other object by trying to connect it with an important person, place, or event. The problem is that in some instances, they are simply wrong. Claims about a watch's ownership or provenance are supported by various types of documentation such as receipts, letters, pictures, and more. A close examination of the evidence about a timepiece's proclaimed ownership is really important in getting the full story, because in the worst instances, the auction house is flat out lying.

3. Watch Auctions Are Highly Glamorized

The most successful auction houses in the world such as Christie's and Sotheby's put out beautiful catalogs with lavish pictures and descriptions of the items they intend to sell. These companies, and others like them are masters of presentation. Watch auctions themselves are often semi-formalized events with their share of VIPs and media. Watch auction houses also dedicate a lot of media to promoting and advertising their sales. This is all sound business and something that legitimately helps inform interested people in their upcoming auction events. This glamour, however, is part of the sales technique, and is designed to make people feel excited about participating, as well as about the results of an auction. Watch auction houses also often work with various charities and other organizations to do benefit events and help raise money for philanthropic causes. In this sense, watch auction houses are about entertaining a particular wealthy demographic with sales events, as much as they are about offering collectors a venue to own rare and desirable goods.

4. The Success Of Not Vintage, But Pre-Owned Watches Drives Auctions

The majority of watch auction events include dozens if not hundreds of lots for sale. However, when many people read about a watch auction, there are only a few "auction highlights" that are promoted. These are the "superstar" lots that mostly include interesting or desirable vintage watches which have a known likelihood of achieving high values at auction. Sometimes, would-be bidders mistakenly believe that these highlighted watches represent the majority of the lots in an auction. That isn't true. In fact, if there is just one take away message from this entire article, it is that modern watch auction events are mostly sustained by the sale of much newer pre-owned or unsold retail stock timepieces. These are where the best values are for consumers, and what keep many of the auction houses going - not a steady stream of exotic rare timepieces or vintage favorites.

5. Be Careful Of Auction Fees & Premiums

There are a few reasons that eBay.com became so popular. Among them are the fact that eBay makes it very cheap (and easy) to host an auction, and because people can bid on their own time using an automated system. Outside of eBay and its competitors is the traditional world of auction houses' fees and premiums - which vary from company to company. The basic idea is that when an auction house puts up something and it sells, they collect a fee from both the buyer and the seller. These fees are not unsubstantial.

Sellers go into the process knowing that perhaps 10-20% of the final bid value will be taken by the auction house as a fee. There are a lot of good reasons for this, and the decision to sell something using an auction house is usually based on the notion that despite the fees, the auction house helped them get more money than by doing it themselves. However, most auction houses also collect buyer's fees (known as a "buyer's premium") - and these can be more tricky to comprehend.

Auction houses frequently charge higher buyer's premiums than they do seller's fees. These fees and premiums are most always a percentage of the total value that tends to exist on a complex sliding scale. So while auction houses earn 10-20% of the total amount given to a a buyer during a successful sale, they often charge 10% to sometimes over 30% as a buyer's premium over the final hammer price. That premium is calculated after the final bid, and is not part of what the seller receives. You can therefore understand why auction houses are so excited to not only have sellers commission items with them, but to also have buyers engage in bidding wars. As someone who may potentially bid in a watch auction, you should be extremely familiar with how buyer's premiums are calculated and know that they will be in addition to the final hammer price.

6. Watch Brands Often Buy Their Own Watches At Auction

Depending on the situation, a watch brand may either explicitly or secretively bid and win one of their own watches. In the most ethical instances, a watch brand openly bids on a watch from their own history. The watch company Breguet, for example, often attempts to purchase historic timepieces and clocks produced by the brand's namesake and his family. Many of these timepieces are over 200 years old. Breguet, and others like it are trying to "reclaim" their history for historical preservation and study, as well as to show them off in various exhibits. Of course, these brands don't always have as deep pockets as some of the competitive bidders.

Less ethical situations involve instances where watch brands secretively bid (via a proxy bidder) on their own timepieces in order to manipulate the auction or the market for their products overall. This situation can be just about engaging in a bidding war so that a particular items goes for a higher amount, or it could be part of a more concerted effort, in an attempt to show that their timepieces are more desirable and/or more valuable. This practice does happen from time to time, and can be very difficult to detect. It is also rather effective, because of the anonymous nature of some bidding, and because even buying your own watches for a large sum of money is enough to offer material to show the market how valuable your brand might be.

7. Million Dollar Watches At Auction Are Rarer Than You Think

Patek Philippe and Rolex are perhaps the most successful names when it comes to watch brands that perform well at auction. Among the two, Patek Philippe has a lot more "million dollar watches" it can claim, based on its history of producing complicated exclusive timepieces. Even traditionally, Rolex was in the market of producing a lot of watches. Rolex's most valuable timepieces at auction are prototypes, limited production models, and other low production pieces. There are a healthy number of watches throughout recent history that have achieved winning bids for more than $1,000,000, but they are rare. Often times, they are actually the same watches that circulate from auction to auction exchanging hands among elite collectors. The majority of Rolex and Patek Philippe timepieces at auction are far more reasonably priced, and only a handful are those that are able to surprise people with intensely high prices.

Those latter models are what tend to be the lots that beat auction estimate values. Most auction lots fall within the conservative estimate values or come in below. So, not only are watches that can achieve million dollar prices rare, but most watch auction lots yield extremely predictable prices or come in under estimate.

8. In Our Opinion, A Lot Of Watch Auction Values Are Inflated

In an ideal world, the pure economics of "supply and demand" would rule the auction market for all things, including rare, collectible, or merely unsold timepieces. That isn't always the case when it comes to watch auctions, because too many buyers are unfamiliar with actual demand. Auction houses are, of course, in it to maximize profit, so in their eyes, everything they put up for auction is "rare, amazing, fine, important, collectible, etc..." That isn't always true, and when it comes to niche items like timepieces, the auction houses have actually managed to create markets and values where, in many instances, there was none before. Of course, sometimes watch auction houses are merely influenced by trends set by smaller groups of collectors who happen to be keen on particular products.

This latter notion is important because collectors are often highly emotionally driven when it comes to what they purchase. Just a few collectors hot on particular products can completely alter the market because some of those items are very rare and collectors' purchasing habits are closely monitored. What that means is that the value of certain timepieces can go up several hundred percent for short durations of time, and such an increase in value has nothing to do with their actual inherent or comparable value, but rather because some collectors have a temporary interest in something. So, the moral of the story is that a combination of niche collector activity as well as zealousness from watch auction houses can result in inflated pricing that does not always relate to larger market demand, but rather what entities with a vested interest feel that market demand should be. In short, the best watch auction houses are experts in collector psychology as much as they are auctioning off goods.

9. Watch Auctioneers Are Excellent Story Tellers

The best auctioneers aren't just people who can speak very quickly, but who are excellent sales people. Collectible items are all about connecting a physical item with a story and hopefully creating an emotional bond with a potential buyer that makes them feel like, "I have to have that!" When it comes to timepieces, the "story" is no different. Facts are blended with a sense of literary story telling that sometimes can exaggerate how important something is. A good example is the place a wrist watch had in the life of an important person or celebrity. A watch that was merely owned by a celebrity (perhaps rarely worn or a mere gift) can sometimes be described as having a pivotal role in their life during key moments in their career. Literary license surely can obfuscate important facts about the nature of such items. Technically speaking, it is fraud for an auction house to provide incorrect facts or lie to potential buyers, but there are many instances where the factual evidence is sporadic at best, and certain details are up for "interpretation."

It is, therefore, important for buyers to understand that auction houses want to make their auction lots sound as exciting as possible and will take every possible opportunity to stretch the facts and come to conclusions that simply aren't supported by the evidence. Sometimes, they may even make bold proclamations about watches, such as who owned them or how important they were, with extremely fragmented or tangential evidence. In many instances, the consumer must, once again, apply the notion of "buyer beware" when buying a story versus an item that comes with extremely persuasive physical evidence.

10. Anonymous Bidding Via Proxy Is A Double-Edged Sword

I mentioned above that in some instances, buyers make bids anonymously. This is often done via a proxy bidder who is taking orders on behalf of a anonymous client while at the auction itself. Auction houses do not require that the identity of a bidder be made public. In fact, many of the most prestigious auction houses pride themselves on keeping their clients confidential. There is good reason for this. If you are a noteworthy person or someone who has decided to purchase something very expensive, you don't always want the world to know. Auction bidding might be one of the "safest" ways to buy luxury and exclusive items such as priceless art, without the world knowing what you now own. So in some important ways, anonymous bidding serves a very useful purpose for some buyers.

As I mentioned, though, anonymous bidding can be a double-edged sword. While it has benefits, it can also have a deleterious effect on understanding how a final bidding price effects the market for a particular brand or item. Take, for example, a situation where two anonymous proxy bidders are actually the same person, and that person represents a watch brand keen on trying to protect or promote the value of its products. Less maligned are simply those situations where the nature of a buyer is important in helping other buyers know who they are competing against. Buyers could be individuals, museums, companies, governments, etc... While anonymous bidding has a very clear value, the potential for abuse or simple market confusion in the value of a item exists and is sometimes taken advantage of.

Join the conversation about this story »

At least one designer thinks Marc Newson created the Apple Watch, not Jony Ive.

Ive is Apple's lead product designer.

"It's got Marc Newson’s fingerprints all over it," industrial designer Bradley Price told Om Malik. "It’s clearly something he designed rather than Jony Ive."

Price founded Autodromo, which makes car-themed watches, as well as sunglasses and driving gloves.

Apple announced it was hiring Newson just four days before unveiling the Apple Watch, so there's no way Newson could have developed the Apple Watch as an Apple employee.

But Ive and Newson are close friends.

It's rumored that one reason Apple hired Newson was to keep Ive designing killer products.

Newson also has a history of designing watches. It's possible Ive could have worked with Newson unofficially and designed the watch together.

"It’s funny [Apple] announced [Newson] was working with them after the watch," said Price. "But to me that was the Apple way of underhandedly giving him credit for the design without actually saying he designed it."

Newson founded Ikepod, a watch company, and left it in 2012. The Apple Watch has several similarities to Ikepod's products.

"The most obvious giveaway was that the rubber strap had the exact closure method that the Ikepod had," said Price. "But the way the strap integrates with the case is so him, this sort of inflated square."

SEE ALSO: Apple Hired A New Design Genius — Here Are 15 Stunning Things He's Done

Join the conversation about this story »

Every man needs a time piece, but it's not always the right time to drop a few thousand dollars for one. 

With that in mind, Business Insider put together a list of some of the best watches on the market at every price point. That means there's one in here for your kid brother graduating from high school, your cousin who just had a baby, and the man who has everything but could use a little something more.

There's even an option for those who don't want to buy. Our friends over at Eleven James — a kind of Rent-the-Runway for your wrist — helped us out with this story. Their model, and the very the idea that you don't have to commit to a piece for the rest of your life, is catching on even among the most passionate watch collectors.

"Gift giving is always fraught with uncertainty, and buying something as personal as watch for your special someone is even more fraught, thanks to all the different brands, styles and price points on the market today," said Adam Craniotes, a lifelong watch collector and contributing writer for numerous publications. "This is where a company like Eleven James shines, since it allows the client to 'test drive' a variety of watches, with the only criteria being that they're happy with what's on their wrist. Even for seasoned collectors, the gift of an Eleven James membership would be a welcome sight under the tree come Christmas morning."

So consider that. They carry serious brands like A. Lange & Sohne, Panerai, Patek Philippe and more.

You can also consider going vintage. It's more work, but it will make you look like a true aficionado. That said, you'll need to be careful. Make sure whatever you buy has as many of its original parts in tact as possible — the face and the dial especially.

"The dream watch for a vintage watch collector is a watch that has never been serviced or messed with at all," Benjamin Clymer, founder of watch publication Hodinkee, told us this spring.

Under $300 — We especially like Seiko. Also check out Daniel Wellington and ESQ.

Seiko Men's "Solar Drive"

Price: $175

Under $500 — Bulova has some elegant options in this price range that look high end.

Bulova Men's 96B175 "Precisionist" Stainless Steel Watch

Price:$470.60

You can start going vintage at the under $500 price point. Consider picking up an Omega on eBay, but remember to ask about its parts.

Vintage Omega Seamaster

Price:$385

The name Patek Philippe is among the most powerful in the entire watch industry. It is synonymous with class, conservatism, high auction values, price legitimacy, and some of the best looking traditional watches now or ever made.

Patek Philippe remains an independent company whose secrets and plans are tightly guarded, and its most exclusive watches often go directly from the factory to the hands of the world's most prestigious collectors - never to be displayed in a store counter or window.

When it comes to high-end timepiece auction prices, Patek Philippe leads the pack easily dominating all other watch makers in regard to achieving regular, record-setting prices.

Most Patek Philippe watches that yield not-so-small fortunes during auctions as extremely rare, often unique pieces made for special collectors. Most of these bespoke Patek Philippe watches were produced in the first half of the 20th century, during a time when Patek Philippe was much more open to design and product experimentation.

Though some of its most valuable timepieces (which includes both pocket and wrist watches) have been produced in the modern era. aBlogtoWatch has compiled an assortment of the world's rarest and most valuable Patek Philippe watches in terms of price, starting with a collection of 15 pieces. The list may grow over time as auction results or new watches of extremely high worth over $1,500,000 become available to share.

17. Sky Moon Tourbillon 6002G — $1.5 million

The Sky Moon Tourbillon is without a doubt one of the most widely recognized watches that Patek Philippe has ever made. Earlier last year, in 2013, the manufacture introduced its follow-up model, now referred to as 6002G. With its astonishingly intricate (and perhaps slightly excessive) engravings adorning its 18k white gold case, the 6002G managed to elevate the already striking appearance of its predecessor to another level. Beyond its stunning aesthetics, this reference hides the most complicated wrist watch movement that Patek makes. The front of the watch displays the time, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, and the phase of the moon, while the dial on the back is reserved to address more unearthly issues. It features a stellar illustration of the northern sky as well as indications for sidereal time on a 24-hour scale, time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the moon, along with the angular progression and the phase of the moon.

Although not revealed by a sapphire window on the white gold case (because it has a double-side dial), the movement's regulating organ is a one-minute tourbillon. Consisting of 69 parts and weighing a total of just 0.3 grams, it is one of the few tourbillons that are actually submitted to rigorous chronometry tests, with its rate fluctuations set not to exceed -2 and +1 seconds per day. Finally, the Sky Moon Tourbillon's 686-component caliber also features a minute repeater, chiming the time - the one that is displayed on the front dial - with its two cathedral gongs. With only two being made by Patek, the price for all this engraved haute horologerie goodness is around $1,500,000. It isn't all that that much more than a standard ref. 5002 Sky Moon Tourbillon either.

16. Reference 1563 Split-Second Chronograph in 18k Gold — $1.57 million

Manufactured in 1947 and sold in 1950, this piece (auctioned by Christie's in November, 2013) is one of three Reference 1563 that are known to exist. Based on the 1436, it is a bi-compax chronograph and it also has the waterproof screw-in case back of the 1436. The difference is to be found in the added feature and complication of the split-seconds chronograph mechanism. Such a complication is known as one of the most difficult to assemble and produce.

This particular piece is unique among the three iterations of the 1563 in that it has luminous Breguet numerals and also luminous sword hands - all original to the watch. Noted in Patek's documents concerning this watch is the fact that it actually has 1436 stamped on the inside of its caseback, though it is not written whether this is for the lack of correctly stamped components, or just because someone had a rough night the day prior to assembling this beautiful piece. What we feel certain about is that owing to its bold numerals, beautifully balanced dial layout and its sublime complication, this watch sports a timeless and, dare we say, a more sportier look, something that makes this piece hugely desirable for the collectors of today and tomorrow.

15. Possibly Unique Aviator Prototype Wristwatch — $1.71 million

The world's rarest and hence most expensive Patek Philippe watches are all unique creations which carry one or more unique accomplishments that set them apart from the rest. Having said that, this Prototype Pilot's watch from 1936 is just something else. To begin with, its movement was actually made in 1912, and it was only some 24 years later that it was set in its nickel-chromed case that is seen above. Equipped with what is referred to as a "splittable centre seconds and hour angle dial", this unique prototype has only one counterpart out there, as Patek is known to have only made two of such watches.

What this weird term "hour angle dial" actually means is that the hour hand rotates once in 24 hours, indicating the degrees of arc against the center circle divided into 360. The "minute" hand rotates once every 4 hours and is read against the scale of 60. The two second hands revolve every 4 minutes, showing the angular minutes. Consequently, the time shown on the watch as pictured, reads 332 8.5', translating into 22 hours, 8 minutes and 30 seconds, the very time that all watches show in books and catalogues. Measuring in at an immense 56mm in diameter, this piece was designed to be worn by pilots who would wear it on the outside of their flight suit. A truly unique and very interesting piece that was sold by Christie's on the 11th of May, 2009, for $1,710,690.

It takes a lot to truly shake up the watch world.

Apple is attempting to do it with the Apple Watch, due out next year. 

But before the Apple Watch was announced, another well-known brand captured the attention of the horological universe in dramatic fashion.

It was Swatch. 

Yes, Swatch — maker of all those witty plastic timepieces that everyone wore in the 1980s, and that still have a following in both low and high places today.

Swatch is actually the Swatch Group, which includes names such as Omega, Breguet, and Rado. It's a huge force in Swiss watchmaking and, with the creation of the Swatch brand several decades ago, is often credited with saving that country's watch industry in the face of an onslaught of inexpensive quartz timepieces from Asia.

CREATING A SENSATION

The watch is the Sistem51— an innovative and radically new automatic timepiece that's purely Swiss and purely Swatch.

The Sistem51 only costs $150 and went on sale in the US late this year. It created a sensation at the big annual watch show in Basel in 2013.

"Jaws dropped," said Carlo Giordanetti, Swatch's Creative Director. "No one thought it would be possible."

So what exactly did Swatch manage to achieve with Sistem51?

It reduced the number of parts in the movement to 51, about half of what a typical automatic watch requires.

An automatic movement is powered by the movement of the wearer. The finest watches in the world are automatics, costing tens and even hundreds of thousands. Their movements — complicated miniature machines — are a source of fascination to watch collectors and enthusiasts.

There are plenty of cheap automatics out there. You can pick up a perfectly good one for less than $100. It won't be anything to write home about, but it won't need a new battery every few years, either.

And it won't be as innovative as Sistem51. 

"51 became a target," said Giordanetti, who has been with Swatch since 1987. " It was a challenge for our engineers to get the same number of components in an automatic as in a quartz."

ELIMINATING COMPLICATION

The overriding goal was to eliminate complexity. For the record, complications are what the traditional Swiss watch industry thrives on. More complications can make for a far more valuable and desirable watch. Quartz watches, by contrast, are fairly simple: they use a quartz crystal and electric oscillation to generate very precise timekeeping. 

Automatic watches use mechanical action to wind a mainspring, which powers the timekeeping function.

There's no fastidious watchmaker laboring over a bench with tiny tools and a sure, practiced hand producing the Sistem51. Instead, there are robots. The entire assembly process is automated. The movement is constructed around a single, central screw.

No shortage of traditional watchmaker know-how went into creating the watch, according to Giordanetti. It was, however, updated, forward-thinking know-how.

"There were 25 to 35 young people involved, all from watchmaking families," he said. "No other brand could have done this."

The traditional Swiss watch industry is doing quite well these days, supported by global demand for luxury timepieces from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and other big names. It's all about automatics, so Swatch saw an opportunity to use its heft to introduce something radically new into this market — all while keeping intact the brand's affection for whimsy and irreverence.

IT'S NOT ABOUT SHOWING OFF

"It was an innocent provocation," Giordanetti said of the roll-out of Sistem51 in Basel in 2013.

But it was more than that. "It was emotional," the Swatch veteran added.

Apart from watchmaking innovation, Sistem51 also represents another core Swatch value: cheerful unpretentiousness. 

"It's not about showing off," Giordanetti explained. "It's all about lightness. A Swatch collector wants to look at his or her watch and smile two or three times a day."

The current lineup of Sistem51 watches — there are four — has a face design vaguely evocative of astronomy, emulating the arrangement of the movement. The movement itself can been seen in action through a clear caseback (it's hermetically sealed and doesn't require servicing). 

I tried all four and decided that I liked the "Sistem Blue" version with a soft, silicon strap best ("Sistem Black," with a simple black leather strap, is the most conservative, while "Sistem White" and its festive aesthetic is the least serious; "Sistem Red" is Sistem Blue in a hotter color). I sported a Swatch for several years back in the 1990s and was immediately reminded by Sistem Blue of how light and easy these watches are to wear. 

"You can hide it," Giordanetti said, and he's right. This isn't a watch that will live on display below your shirt cuff. It's the farthest thing from a chunky, stainless-steel dive watch you can get. It's the anti-Rolex Submariner. But like the Rolex, it's still a completely Swiss watch.

And at $150, it's also the most affordable all-new, super-innovative all-Swiss movement you can lay your hands on.

It's obviously not for everybody — the translucent plastic case is very Swatch and will compel some to compare the Sistem51 to a toy. But there will be more examples to choose from in 2015, according to Giordanetti. Slightly less witty face designs are on the horizon. You could wear these Swatches with business suits.

Sistem51 is a piece of watchmaking history, as important as the arrival of Swatch quartzes were in the 1980s. The Apple Watch will be a big deal. But Apple isn't the only innovator in watches these days!

You can find the Sistem51 here.

SEE ALSO: I Didn't Drive The Corvette Stingray, I Drove Its Engine

Join the conversation about this story »

True story: When I first became interested in "nice" watches I had little interest in Rolex. Looking back, I think I found them a bit ordinary or too conservative looking.

My 20 year-old self perhaps saw them as being "too safe" from a design perspective and not close enough the modern, experimental designs I was attracted to at the time.

That was all true. Rolex watches are design monoliths.

Due to Rolex's impressive marketing over the years, as well as the sheer popularity of their products, they have become the archetype of the "nice watch." And everyone certainly knows about them. My younger self was simply looking for something a bit more fresh. It was not a right time to get my first Rolex.

Over the years my relationship with Rolex evolved. It is now one of admiration, appreciation, and certainly understanding.

I know what Rolex watches are good at, I know what to expect from the brand, and I certainly know how seriously other people take them. And that goes equally for new and vintage Rolex watches that attract very distinct fan.

Why People Want A Rolex

Rolex watches are perhaps the finest mass-produced industrial timepiece on the planet. They may actually be the finest mass-produced anything. And by mass-produced I mean in terms of watch brand production volumes which for watches at the Rolex price point is most always less than one million watches per year.

Eventually, I came to approve of and even greatly desire one, then two, and later more Rolex watch models. What really changed my perception of Rolex was being able to survey the competition. My status as a watch writer and expert affords me the opportunity to handle over 1,000 watches per year. I've reviewed a lot of watches and can say for sure that Rolex does a lot of things the very best.

You also can't deny the communicative power a Rolex watch has when saying something about your status, wealth, and taste. None of it may be true, but years of work have given Rolex wearers a pretty good personality edge. Even people who think buying a Rolex is a too easy way of showing actual or apparent wealth can usually only fault the wearer and not the watch. I've come to find that a Rolex watch is infrequently a bad choice.

People tend to want buy a Rolex for one of the following main reasons: to celebrate an achievement, to own a watch that appears to hold value, to communicate a level of career or life success, to own a luxury watch that is a simple choice, or to wear a timepiece with a lot of history. Most Rolex watch models would satisfy each of these needs. No reason is better or worse, but it is interesting that most people's desire to wear a Rolex falls into one or more of these categories.

The natural next question to ask is whether these are good reasons or whether these are just marketing perpetuated ideas to sell watches. That is a very good question and I think the most simple response is that whether or not these ideas are perpetuated by marketing, they are true. Rolex watches are frequently given or purchased on special occasions. Rolex watches to tend to hold their value very well. And Rolex watches are a well-known luxury brand with a name lots of people have a positive association with. So marketing aside, they are true claims.

People have sometimes asked me if "Rolex watches are the best in the world?" Rolex is probably the most powerful luxury watch name, and their products are very well-made, these are facts. However, Rolex watches are the last timepiece some people will buy, and for others they are just a start.

Rolex tends to make simple mechanical movements and a limited variety of core designs. There is an entire universe of more complicated, more expensive, and more thoroughly designed watches. Having said that, few will claim that a Rolex doesn't belong in a well-rounded watch collection.

When Is The Right Time To Buy A Rolex?

Around the time this article was written, we on aBlogtoWatch were wrapping up a viewer poll on this exact question. Visitors to aBlogtoWatch were asked, in their opinion, what the best time to buy a Rolex watch was.

Four possible response choices were given and the results were remarkably well-distributed. About 21% said that it was best to buy a Rolex as soon as they could afford it. About 24% said the best time to get a Rolex was after sampling watches from many other brands. About 25% said it was Rolex time as soon as you've achieved a certain level of success. The rest weren't interested in Rolex watches at all.

The poll results indicated that 70% of aBlogtoWatch readers felt it was a good idea to buy a Rolex at some point. Clearly, you need to afford one first. As of now, the entry level price for the most basic new Rolex watch is about $5,000, with most pieces people want priced in the $8,000 - $12,000 range. Of course vintage or pre-owned Rolex watches can be less or actually more money.

Assuming the money is in the bank, you need to feel emotionally ready. Sound silly? Well given that people associate so many types of sentimental feelings with Rolex watches, it is actually something to consider. Let me tell you what I personally feel. Like I said earlier, Rolex watches are a monolith. The brand is like a rock-solid force that was here before I was born, and will be here after I have left.

Rolex also does not really add or subtract models with any speed or regularity. In fact, the watch models Rolex sells today, will in some highly recognizable form, be available long into the future. Rolex evolves their product collection versus changing it. That means it is as good a time to buy a new Submariner now, as it will be in 5, 10, or even 20 years. The Submariner will still be around - and it is that type of reassurance that Rolex has worked so hard to foster.

Having said that, I'd love a Rolex right now, but perhaps it would be a foolhardy decision. I am among those people who believe that the time to buy a Rolex is right after you've sampled a lot of watches, and when the right level of life success calls for it. I am just one person however. What we've done for you is collect the thoughts of our most respected fellow watch experts and writers to weigh in on this issue.

What The Experts Say

You know what we have to say on the topic of when to get your first Rolex watch, and below you'll see what other important voices think as well. It is important for you to feel that your new (or new for you) Rolex comes at the right time. Our colleagues and fellow experts offer their advice on the matter of your first Rolex watch below:

Ben Clymer of Hodinkee.com:

"I think that a vintage Rolex in particular is an excellent watch for beginning collectors for a few reasons. In fact, I would say that if one is comfortable with the brand positioning of Rolex, it is arguably the finest "first nice watch" someone can own.

The reason that I would suggest vintage early in the collecting career is A) they can be had for little money comparatively speaking, B) you get a superb, historic, and truly in-house watch from a bluechip brand, and C) it was the 1950s-70s when Rolex was really in its hey-day. In fact, I would argue that Rolex is the most important watch brand of the 20th century - their list of technical firsts is a mile long, and watches such as the 1970s Datejust (ref 1603), which very much like the modern Datejust today, can be purchased in good, original condition for $2500 (+/- depending on condition, etc).

The modern equivalent, which is very much the same watch, retails for double the price and the aging commonly found on the dial and hands give the vintage pieces a nice, elegant glow. The Datejust (or Oyster Perpetual, or Air King, etc) is a superb everyday watch that is universally appreciated and universally acceptable - whether with a t-shirt and jeans or a suit. The cases, bracelets, and movements are of exceptional build quality and I don't think there is a better buy for that kind of money.

I think a modern Rolex is a slightly different story, and the real benefit to buying new is if you want a true sport watch that can handle anything you throw at it. Sure, an old Submariner or GMT can be serviced to be completely water-proof, but they still have plastic crystals and 40 year old parts (here and there). A modern Rolex is built like a tank, and while they may not have some of the charm of some vintage pieces, they are truly exceptionally well-made watches. Though, I think they lack some of the charm of the early tritium and radium dials."

Michael Clerizo from the Wall Street Journal:

"I like the way the Japanese gift watches based around an occasion such as a graduation, a significant birthday, a first job or an important promotion. I think that approach should apply even if you're buying for yourself. A mechanical watch is not like buying a lamp or a computer, it is something very special so you should link purchasing one to a meaningful event in your life. Both the event and the watch will hold more meaning that way.

As mechanical watches require some care you need a sense of responsibility to own one. We all mature at different ages but many people (males and females) have the sense of responsibility by sixteen or by eighteen."

Robert-Jan Broer from the Fratellowatches.com:

"Rolex still has an "image" that it is a watch to commemorate something special. Your first job, your first child, your graduation, your wedding, and so on. I feel, that if you are buying a Rolex to celebrate something, you should always try to go for a brand new Rolex instead of a pre-owned one.

If you aren't buying a Rolex to celebrate a joyful event, but just want to buy that first good watch that will last a lifetime, you might as well take pre-owned Rolex watches into consideration. A pre-owned Rolex will certainly save you a few bucks, unless the Rolex is a sports model that is much sought-after (f.i. Submariner, Sea-Dweller, GMT-Master). Chances are quite good that the price of a pre-owned vintage Rolex equals a new Rolex watch or is even more expensive."

Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com:

"I believe the best time for someone to purchase their first Rolex is whenever they fall in love with a Rolex watch, and decide they have to have it and can't live without it. It's that simple. This happened to me 30 years ago, when I was 16 years old. There was a Rolex Authorized Dealer (AD) in Mill Valley, California I somehow wandered into when I was 16. At the time, Rolex had recently introduced the first Submariner with a synthetic sapphire crystal, which gave it a really modern look.

I fell madly in love with that watch and used to go visit it at least once a month. I became friendly with the jeweler, who must have thought I was nuts, because I would drop by just to try on the watch and stare at it like it was Sophia Loren.I remember thinking to myself, there was something magical about the Submariner. I was stunned by its super-timelessness and purposeful looking design. I remember thinking there was something very James-Bond-like about it, and I thought, if I could just get one, it would somehow make me invulnerable – like wearing a bracelet with magic powers.

At the time I did not realize that every James Bond actor had worn the Rolex Submariner as their default sport watch, but for some reason, when I would look at it on my wrist, the James Bond theme music track would start playing in my head! You know. the dun-na-na-na, na-nunna, dun-na-nunn-na...

One day, when I was still 16, I went to go visit the Rolex Submariner again, and the jeweler said "Hi Jake! Coming to visit your best friend again?", to which I said "Yes." Then he said, "Why don't you just buy the watch, so you don't have to come in here and stare at it on your wrist?" I remember asking the AD every imaginable question about the Submariner, and I remember being frustrated that I could not just buy it since the watch retailed for just over $1000 at the time, which was a lot of money, particularly for a 16-year-old.

I thanked the AD, and he said "See you soon!", to which I responded "Yes you will. I will be back before you close the store this evening to pickup the watch." He smiled and had this kind of confused look on his face. Somehow, I came up with the $1000, and showed up several minutes before the AD closed and bought the Rolex Submariner.

The AD sized it for my wrist, and I could not stop staring at the watch. I remember I went home and laid in bed for hours staring at the timeless beauty of the design, and when I turned the lights off, I would get way under the covers and completely cover myself in blankets so no ambient light was visible, and I would just stare at the beautiful lumed dial, and I would stare at the second hand as it moved ever so precisely around the dial in big circles. So my answer is, you should buy what you want or in my case had to buy, whenever you can afford it."

Paul Altieri from Bobswatches.com:

"A good time to buy your first Rolex watch is when you have enough discretionary income to where you can afford the model you want. Our average Rolex buyer is 40 to 45 years old but we have recently experienced a 15% increase in younger buyers in their mid to late twenties.

But they all share the same love and appreciation for what it means to own and wear a Rolex. And while some are celebrating a momentous occasion like a college graduation, the vast majority are just buying the watch for themselves because they want it!For those looking to find the best deals: buy soon after a major holiday like Christmas or Fathers Day where it is sometimes possible to find a small percentage discount. But don’t expect to find bargain basement close-outs. Not on a Rolex.

Advantage of buying a pre-owned Rolex? A pre-owned Rolex watch, unlike a new one, will not depreciate in value soon after it is purchased. While buying a new Rolex is akin to buying a new car: they will both depreciate in value substantially after they are purchased. By buying a pre-owned watch you have essentially eliminated this retail markup devaluation making it possible to someday sell your Rolex for more than you paid."

Frank Geelen from Monochrome.nl:

"Buying a first Rolex is something monumental and it makes sense to do this for a memorable occasion. This can be either a celebration (high school diploma, university graduation, promotion at work, wedding) or something for remembrance (using an inheritance for instance)."

James Stacey from aBlogtoWatch:

"7/10 Rolex buyers are buying exclusively for the name and do so whenever they have the cash to afford an 8K+ watch (as Paul said). If you consider yourself a watch nerd type, you may be buying a Rolex (and a specific model at that) for a variety of reasons. Rolex has a sport watch tied to the history of many manly pursuits (Sub = diving, daytona = racing, explorer/II = exploration, GMT Master = pilots, gold date just = dictator/mafioso/cocaine cowboys)."

NOW WATCH: 3 Watches You Should Wear If You Want To Impress People

SEE ALSO: How To Spot A Fake Luxury Watch

DON'T FORGET: Follow Business Insider's The Life on Facebook!

Join the conversation about this story »

There are tons of available Rolex watches to choose from. And that doesn't even include Rolex's rather intense catalog of vintage and no longer produced models.

Many people know they want a Rolex watch but aren't sure what model to get.

Some people simply want the name on their wrist and are looking for the least expensive model. Other people have a closer connection with a specific model's history, or simply feel that one particular Rolex fits their lifestyle best. Even then, with all the options available it can be difficult to decide what your first Rolex watch should be. So let's take a brief look at what Rolex watches are available, and how to satisfy the various reasons you want to buy one.

What Are You Looking For?

As we discussed in Part 1 of the Guide To Buying Your First Rolex, different people want Rolex watches for different reasons and at different times in their lives. Understanding what your needs are will certainly help in determining what your first Rolex watch should be.

The Rolex you buy might be your first and last Rolex, or the start of a collection. You'll want the first model to have some meaning, residual value, as well as a versatile style. Most Rolex watches are designed to fit with many outfits, but that isn't the case for all of them. Also, those with a specific interest in value retention have special considerations to make.

People who just want the Rolex name on their wrist probably have the hardest time. These people are going to be looking at thousands of available watches all over the world hunting for the best watch, at the best price, in the best condition.

Today, the Rolex Air King models are the entry level pieces and the least expensive with a price of about $5,000. These are basic models and are considerably smaller than most of the other popular models from the brand. We will discuss more of that below.

Pre-owned or used Rolex watches can be a good deal, but again, require a fair amount of time to located, verify, and purchase. There are used Rolex watch dealers out there, or you can use a range of online resources to purchase Rolex watches from existing owners.

The problem is that these resources are mostly geared toward knowledgeable enthusiasts who know what they are looking for. Novices new to Rolex are going to find these resources more challenging, so we recommend going to a reputable pre-owned Rolex dealer. Alternatively, you can of course visit a new Rolex dealer for the most simple, but of course pricey experience.

Vintage Rolex watches exist in bounty, but can be marked by extremely high prices given their rarity. Also note that compared to today's average men's wrist watch size, vintage Rolex models tends to be quite small. In fact, today's average Rolex is of "moderate" size compared to other watches (though that fact is changing as Rolex steadily releases larger watches).

Having said that, owning a good quality vintage sport or dress Rolex model can be very rewarding in both style and "cool" factor. Having a vintage Rolex Submariner for example is not only often less expensive than a brand new model, but is certainly more hip. They also aren't so small as to appear like ladies watches much of the time.

When looking for a Rolex to fit your lifestyle things get easier. For men we will identify three types of lifestyles or characters that Rolex watches will fit into nicely. First there are what we call "everyday casual sport watches." This represents most of the men's collection and are just that; sport watches that can be dressed up or down and are suitable for everyday wear.

We will discuss the models we recommend in this range below. Next are office or formal watches. Rolex has a couple of product families that will serve you very well in a suit and tie. These watches are not inherently sporty, but are durable enough. From a style perspective they are attractive, timeless, and mature... but not really suitable for jeans or shorts much of the time.Having a dedicated "suit and tie" Rolex will make it better for an office environment, but it will lack the versatility of a sport model.

Last, are the more "showy" Rolex watches. These are the more "blingy" versions with diamond decoration and/or fully made from precious metals such as 18k yellow, rose, or white gold... or platinum. These models exist in the other Rolex watch families, but are factory decorated by Rolex to be much more status symbols than a handsome everyday timepiece.

Often times people who come into a lot of money, land a huge business deal, or simply want to show off wealth prefer a model such as this. Consumers should be careful when buying pre-owned in this category because many of them are aftermarket creations (such as diamond setting) versus those fully made by Rolex.

Trust us that Rolex offers more than a generous selection of "factory" bling versions of their products. The options are staggering, with countless variations and levels of diamond decor mixed with different types of precious metal cases

Models Available

Right off-the-bat, we want to inform you that we are not going to discuss all Rolex watches available. That would be a very long and overly complex list. What we will do is discuss a survey of the model families and discuss some basic considerations in helping you to choose the right model to suit your needs.

We also want to point out that both sport and dress watches from Rolex are available in precious metals and with diamond decoration. Of course the styles and designs vary, but getting a solid 18k gold Submariner with a diamond-studded bezel is more than available.

Rolex Sport Watches

The most versatile and thus popular watches are Rolex's sport watches. King of the hill is the Submariner with an average price of about $8,000. Available in a few styles and materials, your basic black Submariner model in steel is the go-to piece for the majority of Rolex lovers.

The 40mm wide steel case is a good middle-ground size, and its style works well with anything from a tuxedo to a t-shirt. Immensely popular, the only bad thing we can say about the Submariner is that you won't be the only person in the room to have one. New or vintage, these are solid models.

Close to the style of the Submariner are related models such as the GMT-Master II (similar in appearance but with a second time zone hand), the Sea-Dweller Deepsea (a larger, more professional use dive watch), and the Yachtmaster (dressier version with a style between a dive watch and a dress watch). Think of these as offshoot models which vary the core theme but are all related by the same DNA.

These are all good options as well and will have prices within a few thousand of your basic Submariner. In a nutshell, the Submariner is the most popular, and the others offer interesting, yet sometimes minor, variations that might suite your style and lifestyle better. None are inherently "better or worse" watches, and are worth a look to find the right size, material, and color for you.

Less expensive than the ultra popular Submariner are the Rolex Explorer and Explorer II models. Both in steel, one is 39mm wide (in its most modern forms) three-hand watch, while the other is a 42mm wide (in its most modern form) GMT model. These models make excellent starter Rolex watches because even new, their prices are relatively low ($5,000 - $7,000), but they are well-sized and good-looking.

While not right for everyone, a perennial favorite among the "want to show I made it crowd" is the Rolex Daytona chronograph. At 40mm wide, this is Rolex's famous chronograph watch and it comes in a range of styles. Famously, the steel version of the Daytona was being sold for a premium over its retail price as it was so popular for a while.

The Daytona is dressier than Rolex's other sport models but is still a very versatile timepiece. Compared to most other chronograph watches, the Daytona is a bit small, but certainly has a strong following. Its base price is more expensive than a Submariner.

 Rolex Dress Watches

We mentioned that the Rolex Air King is the brand's entry level model and is a casual dress watch. However, we cannot easily recommend it for men because while Rolex considers it a men's model, at 34mm wide it is only suitable for boys. Women are much more likely to be seen wearing it.

In fact, Rolex has been modernizing the sizes of its men's watches to fit the demands and expectations of today's male buyer. The majority of "older' men's watch sizes such as 36mm and below are primarily being purchase by women these days. We recommend men to look at Rolex watch sizes no smaller than 40mm wide.

While the Submariner was our top pick for a Rolex sport watch, the Datejust II is our top pick for a Rolex dress watch. Updated from 36mm wide to 41mm wide, the famous fluted bezel of the Datejust has been a hallmark of Rolex for decades.

At first, the Datejust might seem stuffy and conservative, but it is a remarkably useful and good looking watch once you get to know it. In steel with a white gold bezel, its base price is about $9,000. Though in precious metals it can go way up in price. A perfect watch with a suit that combines a good style and the name you are looking for.

Not offered in steel and priced higher are the Rolex Day-Date II watches. These feature a day of the week complication and are otherwise similar to the Datejust models in size and style. The Day-Date II watch is also known as the Rolex "President" much of the time. These watches are certainly more showy and expensive given a lack of steel versions. It is a good watch for a middle-aged man who feels he can afford it without struggling with an average price of about $30,000.

While other potential Rolex dress watches exist, we like to focus on the Datejust II and Day-Date II as good 'first' Rolex watch models. Though in reality, most Rolex watches can be dress watches if the right version and attire are chosen.

Also, note that in this entire article we do not mention average pre-owned prices or vintage watches for a reason. First, pre-owned popular Rolex watches often sell for prices close to retail. If not, then they aren't in good condition. Also, many vintage Rolex models are too small for us to recommend for most modern men, though there are lots of exceptions and personal taste is a factor.

Furthermore, exploring vintage Rolex watches is often reserved for those who are aren't first-time Rolex buyers. Nevertheless, our panel of experts does offer some valuable advice below on looking at vintage Rolex pieces.

Life Of The Watch

As we mentioned earlier, a very important consideration to make is "what will the life of this watch be?" So consider if you want to keep the watch for life and wear it every day. Will it be just an occasional part of your collection? Are you interested in a watch that you can sell in a few years for a profit or at near purchase price? Each of these considerations will alter your choice of model.

For those wanting to wear the pieces every day, we recommend a popular sport model that is easily available. These will likely retain value, but aren't really going to increase in value. These will look good with most outfits and will be timeless in their appearance.

Value speculators are advised to look for rarer or niche Rolex models. A good example is the green bezel and dialed version of the new Submariner. It has a slight price premium over the black dialed model, and is produced in less numbers.

It is also less classic looking and thus going to be in lower demand at this time. History has told us that such lower production, more niche Rolex watches tend to be collector's items in the future. Though how long into the future is anyone's guess.

People who want a Rolex watch for mostly special occasions should seek out their dressier or showier models in precious metals and perhaps with diamonds. These watches will be used as wealth and status symbols and thus don't need to go along with all types of outfits or occasions. Otherwise, you'll look like a South American drug lord wearing a diamond-encrusted gold Rolex in your workout clothes. On the flip side, a mere Rolex Submariner isn't likely to deliver the right message if you are trying to impress people at a high-society event or executive luncheon.

Before you read the important thoughts below from fellow experts, our friends at Minus4Plus6 have uploaded the full 2012 list of Rolex watch retail prices here.

What The Experts Say

Once again, we visit our panel of experts for supporting or alternative views as to what your first Rolex watch should be:

Ben Clymer of Hodinkee.com:

I don't think there is a better buy in the world than a 1960s or 70s Rolex Datejust. The watch is a true icon, imitated but never duplicated, you get a fantastic movement, and everyday wearability. I also think the Oyster Perpetuals and Air Kings are excellent first-time buyer watches, but the Datejust I think has a bigger upside down the road (financially) and it is 36mm (though it wears larger) whereas the others are 35mm and smaller.

A Submariner 5513 or 1680 is also an excellent choice for a first time buyer, though they are slightly more expensive - sport watches tend to fetch significantly more money than "non-sport watches". But of course there is larger demand and higher possibility that these sport watches will increase in value over time.

The Day-Date, sometimes known as the "President" (though incorrectly, that refers to a bracelet often found on the Day-Date), is also an incredible value if someone is looking for a solid gold watch. Yellow gold Day-Dates from the 70s sell for a literal fraction of the current retail price, and again, they are very much the same watch.

Michael Clerizo from the Wall Street Journal:

With Rolex (as with many things is life) I am a classicist and I like things simple. My vote for first Rolex purchased is the steel and white gold Oyster Perpetual Datejust with a black dial. I think this model suits either men or women.

Robert-Jan Broer from the Fratellowatches.com:

An ideal first Rolex watch would be an all-time classic, like the Submariner or GMT-Master. It will fit most people perfectly, not only in terms of appearance but also in terms of 'requirements'. These iconic watches will keep good value as well. Although you will lose a bit of value in the first few years, after the annual indexing by Rolex, the prices of pre-owned models also go up.

After a few years you will at least get back what you paid for it and from that moment on, everything extra is a bonus. However, I wouldn't think of a (Rolex) watch as an investment. There are better and easier ways to earn money. Another advice is to stick to stainless steel. The gold/steel combination is very sensitive to scratches, especially the polished gold surfaces.

The satin brushed bracelet of the Submariner will keep its good looks forever if you properly take care of it. Now, there used to be a difference between a Rolex Submariner Date and No Date in the past. The No Date wasn't chronometer certified and the Date version was.

However, Rolex took care of this a couple of years ago and now all Submariner models have been chronometer certified. So, the difference between a Date and No Date Submariner is merely one of convenience or aesthetics. What do you like best? Do you need a date feature on your watch? A Rolex Submariner with Date also means you get the magnifying lens (or cyclops) on top of the crystal.

This is not to everyone's liking. In the end, you decide! I would either pick a Submariner NoDate because of its clean looks or a pre-owned Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 because of the date feature - but without the cyclops. Best of both worlds! Buying vintage is a whole different chapter. You might not want to go there if this will be your first watch.

Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com:

The ideal first Rolex is the one you have to have and can't live without. You should not buy your first Rolex because the price is right, or because of the status. You should never compromise, and should get exactly what you want. This brings up the second part of your first question, about whether or not to buy a new or used Rolex.

Typically, if you buy a pre-loved Rolex you will save money and not bite the depreciation bullet. However, there is something to be said for the experience of going to an AD and picking out a brand-new watch and knowing everything about the watch is authentic.

In 1983, when I was 16 I bought my first Rolex Submariner, A year later when I was 17, I bought my first Apple Mac. I actually pre-paid for my first Mac and picked it up the first day it was available to the public. I paid $2500 plus tax for the Mac, and also bought the Apple dot-matrix printer for $500.

So basically, in 1984, a state-of-the-art Mac was three times as expensive as a stainless steel Rolex Submariner, which was $1000. Fast forward to 2012, and the same Mac retails for between $1300 and $4000 depending on how you get it equipped.

A stainless Rolex Submariner is about $8000 today, which makes it seem like it has increased in real dollar price over the years by 2-3 times. But, that original Mac computer I purchased 30 years ago is useless and worth almost nothing, and the Rolex Submariner I purchased has significantly increased in value and is now worth around $5000!

It has pretty much remained a rule, that with every Rolex I have owned over the last 30 years, and I have owned many, that I am always able to purchase them, and when it comes time to sell them, I have never lost a penny, so I basically got to wear the Rolex watches for free, and that speaks volumes.

Paul Altieri from Bobswatches.com:

Easy: Rolex Stainless Steel Submariner with Black Face model 16610 – this iconic model is everything you need for your first Rolex. It is stylish enough for work and everyday wear yet classically elegant for any occasion. Everything is perfect about this model from the size, the dial, the bracelet and the brushed steel. It is one of the most popular luxury sport watches in the world and has consistently held its value over the years.

Frank Geelen from Monochrome.nl:

Many first time Rolex buyers that I know, chose a Datejust or Submariner. It seems that other models are usually for the more seasoned watch collector.

James Stacey from aBlogtoWatch:

Safe bet: Sub no date 14060 (used) or 214060 if you want the flashier ceramic bezel. Stick with the stainless/black dial unless you REALLY like gold.
Small wrist or no love for sporty designs: Date Just

The individual: Millgauss 116400, maybe even the GV with the green-tinted Crystal.

My pick: Rolex Explorer II 16570 "Polar" - 40mm, bright white dial with black-bordered hands and markers, GMT complication. Interesting, gorgeous on bracelet or NATO, the design does not scream Rolex. I prefer the 16570 models that don't have the signed rehut and all of these versions over the 216570 which, while sporting a 42mm case, looks wonky with its maxi dial (large hands and markers). These will have to be sourced pre-owned but will likely hold their value if treated well and serviced occasionally.

SEE ALSO: How To Spot A Fake Luxury Watch

DON'T FORGET: Follow Business Insider's The Life on Facebook!

Join the conversation about this story »

In this special feature article, we go on a quest to better understand what is behind the unremitting rise of luxury watch prices, and to do so, we will explore how and why Rolex prices have increased over the last 60 years. You see, while the steep increase of high-end watch prices has become evident to every discerning watch buyer on this planet, it remains difficult to point out exactly why and how things have changed so radically... or, if they have changed at all.

This is, without a shadow of a doubt, one of the most pressing issues in the world of watches today, something that has raised countless questions and fueled numerous debates among watch enthusiasts, collectors, and experts alike. It has directed the spotlight on issues such as value proposition, the economic state of both the industry and the luxury consumer, and has made us want to discover the "hidden driving forces behind it all." To answer as many mysteries as we can – and perhaps to ultimately raise new, previously unasked questions – we decided to scrutinize the pricing practices of one of the absolute benchmark brands of the luxury watch industry: Rolex.

About the process

To begin with, we used official retail prices dating back as far as 1957, based on data compiled byMinus4Plus6.com. This magnificent price table contains authorized retailer prices in about 5-year steps for just about all important Rolex references that debuted in or after 1957. We processed the raw data linked to two of the more popular models of the brand, namely the Submariner no-date and the Cosmograph Daytona, and we have also looked at the Submariner in 18k gold to see how this precious material has affected affordability. We dedicated charts to each of these examples. On the charts, we have marked in black the respective retail prices for each year, while in red we indicate how the price of each watch would have changed over the years had Rolex raised prices only to counter the effects of monetary inflation.

Naturally, there are many other factors beyond inflation that can define a fine watch's retail price, such as costs related to base materials, labor, research and development, marketing and brand positioning, as well as long-term investments related to advancements in manufacturing processes. With that said, our primary goal now is not to find a detailed answer for each respective model's appreciation but rather to acquire a comprehensive understanding of how and why luxury watch prices have changed so much in general.

The key steps in the process of "luxurification"

In an ideal world, no brand can go on for decades making the exact same product while gradually raising prices to several times of what it initially sold said product for. Regardless of whether we are talking about a historical model or a new one, we all expect our latest purchase to pack a number of new features or developments, refinements that grant that our latest and greatest piece is truly that, with advancements in terms of design, comfort, reliability or accuracy.

When it comes to wristwatches, there are many ways we could define what sets a luxury item apart from the rest, but for now we will say that a luxury item is one that goes beyond meeting the requirements set strictly by necessities only. Ever since the first wristwatches became commercially available around the early 1900s, there have always been superior – and hence more expensive – as well as cheaper watches, differing in the level of quality that they offered in the aforementioned factors. But despite that 100-year-long history, the dawn of the luxury watch industry as we know it today dates back to the mid-1980s. It was around then that the Swiss finally found their way out of the quartz crisis that almost completely destroyed them.

To understand the evolutionary cornerstones in the development of a fine-watch-turned-luxury-product, we must examine a product with an expansive and continuous history, one that dates back way beyond the '80s. A model we found to be most suiting for those purposes is the Rolex Submariner. Although its history is rather complex, for now we will say that upon its debut in 1954 it was one of the few professional dive watches out there at the time, and as such, it was more of a tool than anything else. By contrast, today's Submariner, the tool-watch of yesteryear, has transformed into an internationally recognized status symbol, consequently becoming one of the most widely imitated watch designs of them all. That is quite some transformation, and upon closer look, we will see how nicely this one model comprises the steps in the transition from a tool to a luxury product.

As the story tells – and the picture above beautifully illustrates – the Submariner remained more of a tool watch than anything else during its first few decades of existence. Its initial 100 meter water resistance was quickly doubled by the company and as such its 660 feet / 200 meter depth rating, rotating bezel and durable (for the time, that is) construction made it a perfect device for divers. By contrast, while the more modern iterations of it have been improved in just about every aspect one can imagine, the Submariner has gradually left the depths of the oceans and started a new and successful career in business meetings, spending vastly more time hidden under cuffs than exposed over diving suits.

It went on to incorporate better quality steel, replaced aluminum bezels with more beautiful and resistant ceramics, substituted most stamped components with milled ones, has become more legible, and much more accurate. But why was all that necessary, if only a microscopic percentage of its owners actually harness its enhanced capabilities? Because it has become a luxury item, something that must not only look, but also perform better than its more widely available counterparts – even if its heavy-duty construction will not once be put to test in its lifetime.

When it comes to Rolex and their historical models, we have seen them perform a large number of subtle as well as some major modifications over time. There is a peculiar way of coupling these two kinds of enhancements, meaning that smaller improvements are generally synchronized with the debut of more considerable alterations. In Rolex history, this generally translates into presenting a new, more refined movement which is accompanied by more minor improvements on the watch, such as a more durable and comfortable bracelet, a new bezel or luminescent material, and other tweaks.

That same trend widely applies for the luxury watch industry as a whole. Since the dawn of the new millennium most high-end brands have gone out of their way to emphasize the importance of "in-house" movements as they realized the potential in how this positively separates them from their non-manufacture counterparts. Researching Rolex history reveals that there have been some vital turning points in the lives of their products, gradually making them more refined in every way. But an obvious consequence of "more refined" is "more expensive."

But how much do such advancements actually cost the consumer? On the chart above, you will see in black how prices of the Rolex Submariner No-Date changed from 1957 all the way through May, 2014. In red we marked how the original 1957 price of $150 would have changed had it followed monetary inflation only. The math is simple behind this one. If we adjust the original $150 price from 1957 with inflation to 2014 US Dollars, we end up with a price of $1,265 while the watch actually costs $7,500 today. This means that one could say the no-date Submariner costs six times more than it "should." Things are not that straight-forward, however.

A fine watch has never been cheap

You see, while adjusting for inflation could be indicative of how watches have become more expensive, this must be taken with a (substantial) pinch of salt. What primarily defines the affordability of products is not just the price and how that changes in comparison to monetary inflation over time, but rather, how the price of the product compares to people's average income. As we know, inflation is the rate at which the general level of prices for goods and services is rising and, subsequently, how purchasing power is falling. With that said, the increase of average income should – and in the long term it does – outperform inflation, meaning that if the price of a fine watch followed inflation only, it would actually be getting cheaper as consumers have incomes outperforming the rate of inflation.

After that brief 101 in basic economics, let's bring theory into practice and see how all that translates into watch prices and overall affordability. To show you just that, we created the following chart illustrating how the affordability of the Submariner no-date, one of the key models of Rolex, has changed in the United States, between 1957 and 2012.

Let me explain what you just saw above. The results you see labeled above every column range from around 6.7 up to 14. This figure indicates the amount of Submariners which the "average yearly income per capita" could purchase in any given year. Since we are talking about a time scale of over 50 years here, for easier understanding and actual comparability, we have transferred all US Dollar prices and wages into 2012 US Dollars. In other words, in 1957 when the average yearly income was $13,591 (Source: US Bureau of Economic Analysis) and the price of the watch was $1,225 (originally it cost $150 which, when calculated into 2012 US Dollars, is $1,225).

Now, in 1957 if the average watch lover spent all his/her hard-earned yearly income on Submariners, he could have bought 11 of them. By contrast, in 2012 when the average per capita income in the United States was $42,693 and the same model cost $7,500, the average US yearly wage bought you only 5.65 no-date Submariners.

We admit that this might sound like an unreal proposition – because it is, as no one in their right mind would spend all their income on Submariners! But let's put that aside for a minute and concentrate on the point that is to be made here: when considering the average US income, the Rolex Submariner has become three times less affordable since the 1970's – and that is tangible, factual proof for a high-end watch gradually becoming a luxury item. In 1970, the average American earner worked 3 weeks to earn the price of a Submariner, while in 2012 the price of one accounts for over two months' worth of his income. This goes to show that although a fine watch has never been particularly cheap, some very evident repositioning has happened over the course of the last few decades.

Outlining a trend

Thus far, we have been looking at the price changes of the Rolex Submariner, so now let's examine other models the brand has repositioned since their debut decades ago. On the chart above, you will see the Rolex Daytona in stainless steel and how its prices have changed. Again, in black is the actual price of the Rolex Daytona, while in red is the original price adjusted for monetary inflation. If we look at the chart at the 2012 mark we will see that the watch, priced at $11,250 was nearly six times as expensive as it "should have been" based on prices merely adjusted for monetary inflation, which came in at $1,996. So, has the Rolex Daytona in steel become six times as expensive as it once was, in 1973?

Well, in 1973 the average personal income (which was $21,486 in 2012 US Dollars) purchased nearly 11 Rolex Daytona watches in steel, priced at $1,996 each. Meanwhile, nearly forty years later, in 2012 when the average per capita income in the United States was $42,693 and the Rolex Daytona in steel cost $11,250, that figure drops to a mere 3.8 pieces. That means that while the Daytona has received a new in-house movement and has arguably improved in many more subtle ways, practically it has not become six times as expensive as our calculations based on monetary inflation would suggest. In truth, once we compare average personal income in the US, we will find that the 2012 purchasing power of the average yearly wage has dropped to 35% of what it was in 1973 – speaking about the Rolex Daytona, that is.

One may of course rightfully say that the volatility of base material prices have largely affected the final price of the product, and again, we do not disagree. For the aforementioned examples however, we have made an exception and have not taken that into consideration. So for our third, and last scrutinized model we will actually incorporate historical base material prices in our calculations... so read on to learn about the Rolex Submariner in 18k gold.

On the chart above, you will see the same red columns which you have already become familiar with, as they (and the data labels above them) indicate the number of Rolex Submariner 18k gold watches that the average yearly income in the US could buy in any given year. In yellow, however, we have introduced a readout for the price of gold, indicated by yellow columns and yellow data labels (we must note that there may be some minor differences in gold prices in different online databases, but the point here is to see the trends change and not to track down negligible differences in gold price records).

With that said, the correlation between gold prices and the Rolex Submariner 18k gold watch prices are evident. Let's direct our attention to the noticeable trend between 2006 and 2012. In 2006 the price of an ounce of gold was around $630 US Dollars, and the Rolex Submariner 16618 in 18k yellow gold cost $23,100. In 2012, when gold prices have nearly tripled to a whopping $1,600+, the updated version of the Submariner, i.e. the 116618 in yellow gold retailed for $34,250 – a whopping increase of 48% over the course of just six years! In other words, a 260% increase in the price of gold (and a model update with new ceramic bezel, bracelet design and other minor updates) have cumulatively resulted in a price increase of 48%.

So, what have we learned here? The price increase of luxury timepieces unquestionably is a complex topic and one that we are definitely going to further elaborate on in the future. As a first step, we hope to have shed light on some of the previously unseen aspects of how prices and also personal income levels have changed over half a century. We have seen some of the steps in the long and rather intangible process of how Rolex watches have become a luxury item from a tool, initially tailored for professional use.

Join the conversation about this story »

Masters of the Universe aren't known for having anything resembling a jewelry collection except for one item — a watch. They're collectible, gorgeous and at times incredibly expensive pieces that can be handed down from generation to generation

Exactly the type of thing a titan of any industry would want.

We've put together a list and commentary about the wristwatches worn by some of Wall Street's most public executives. 

As expected, a couple of the watches are flashy. A few of them are really, really cheap by Wall Street standards. And one prominent banker doesn't even wear a watch. Ever. 

(If you know of the type of timepiece that an executive at your firm wears, feel free to send the tip to jlaroche@businessinsider.com)

Check it out: 

Warren Buffett, Berkshire Hathaway

Buffett, the "Oracle of Omaha,"wears a gold Rolex Day-Date. 

T. Boone Pickens, BP Capital 

Oil magnate T. Boone Pickens also wears a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date that he purchased in 1964. 

Lloyd Blankfein, Goldman Sachs CEO

Goldman Sachs CEO Lloyd Blankfein rocks a Swatch with what appears to be a clear plastic band. Swatch's tend to range between $50 to $245. It's also not exactly the sort of timepiece you'd expect a chief executive of a Wall Street investment bank to wear. Then again, Goldman is "the most hipster" bank on Wall Street.  

Stephen Schwarzman, CEO of Blackstone Group

Billionaire private equity chief Stephen Schwarzman also wears a Swatch. He also uses a flip phone. 

Jack Bogle, Founder of the Vanguard Group

Investing legend Jack Bogle, the founder of the Vanguard Group, wears a $14 wristwatch he received from a shareholder.

"I received in the mail a wristwatch from a devoted shareholder in California. On the dial were printed our Vanguard logo, my name, and a phrase that was an indication I was still looking out for our shareholders: "Still on Watch." It was also an outrageous pun: "Still on Watch." Confident that it would be my rabbit’s foot, I put the watch on my wrist, where, having proved itself, it remains to this day. (Yes, I knew about the $50 limit on gifts. So I checked the catalog for the price. It was $14. Talk about value!),"he wrote.  

Bond guru Jeff Gundlach, CEO of DoubleLine Capital

We learned about Jeff Gundlach's watch collection when he had a bunch of his artwork and personal property stolen.  

According to the Santa Monica Police Department report, the watches that were stolen included a Glashutte, Breitling, A. Lange & Sohne, TAG Heuer and a Patek Philippe. We couldn't nail down prices for these specific models, but every one can run in the tens of thousands of dollars or more.

See below: 

Talk about some serious wrist candy. Fortunately, the DoubleLine Capital CEO brilliantly helped the FBI recover his stolen property.

Hedge fund billionaire Bill Ackman, CEO of Pershing Square

Bill Ackman, the CEO of Pershing Square Capital, sports a watch with a black band and dark face. We can't identify the watchmaker, though. 

Private equity chief executive Lynn Tilton

Private equity chief Lynn Tilton, the founder of Patriarch Partners, wears a MASSIVE bejeweled timepiece by Jacob the Jeweler. It's definitely fits her "dust to diamonds" persona. She's going to be receiving a personalized Rolex timepiece next week along with a huge tennis award. It better have some bling! 

Hedge funder Phil Falcone

Hedge funder Phil Falcone wears a black sports watch (it looks like Casio G-Shock) and some friendship bracelets and beads (We're assuming his twin girls made those for him).

James Gorman, Morgan Stanley CEO

James Gorman wears a stainless steel Rolex Daytona, according to Ben Clymer, the founder of watch site Hodinkee.

Jamie Dimon, JPMorgan Chase CEO

Jamie Dimon doesn't wear a watch. Ever. Apparently, he doesn't care for jewelry. 

SEE ALSO: The ultimate gentleman's guide to starting a watch collection

Join the conversation about this story »

Apple released a watch 20 years ago, and it's nothing like the smartwatch that's expected to come out in March.

The original Apple Watch, which Jonathan Morrison recently reviewed on YouTube, wasn't sold as a standalone product.

Apple offered the watch as an incentive to upgrade to System 7.5, which we'd probably call Mac OS 7.5 today.

People could chose between the Apple Watch and Conflict Catcher 3, a Mac utility app.

The first Apple Watch wasn't a smart watch in any sense of the word — it certainly didn't have health monitoring or work with Apple Pay. But it did feature scratch-resistant glass and an eye-catching blue bezel.

It also said "Mac OS" on the black plastic band, which was particularly cool because Apple would drop the "System" moniker and start calling its software "Mac OS" about two years later.

These days you can buy one on eBay for around $400.

Here's the full original Apple Watch review:

SEE ALSO: Tim Cook's Total Pay For 2014 Was Over $100 Million

Join the conversation about this story »

While it is frustrating for us to travel to Switzerland and not see new watches, we do legitimately want the watch industry to be economically healthy – so, if waiting for lots of new product is what we have to do, then so be it.

That isn’t to say the 16 presenting brands at SIHH 2015 were empty-handed. Even though many of their newest watches were already debuted via images in the months before SIHH 2015, there were lots of interesting things to see. That is especially true for buyers who exist in the wealthiest buying demographic.

In a sense, you could say that SIHH 2015 was a return to serious luxury as the majority of compelling new products are extremely limited in production and priced very high.

Outside of a few exceptions from brands such as Montblanc and Cartier, men and women whose budgets are $5,000 will not find too many new watches that we really recommend taking a serious look at. This, of course, is the most difficult market segment to get right, and brands are loathe in uncertain economies to dedicate massive production and marketing costs to enticing more “mainstream” consumers with fresh watches to get excited about.

Instead, they rely on existing products to continue selling which focusing on the richest demographic who has increasing amounts of disposable income and is vastly less price sensitive. What does this mean? Well, the difference in price between $5,000 and $5,500 can certainly influence a lot of sales, whereas the difference between a $200,000 and $250,000 price makes less of a difference to consumers at that level. We, thus, see SIHH brands focusing as much on the ultra-elite consumer as possible. If you like diamonds, precious metals, and highly complicated timepieces then SIHH certainly has something for you.

It is also important to mention that many of the most exciting watches we saw at SIHH 2015 were simply not new for 2015. We chose to include some new models debuting for 2015 which are attractive line extensions, but we did not include models which might have been announced a year or more ago and are finally ready for production now. If that would have been the case you would have seen a different list below.

aBlogtoWatch likes to represent the perspective of the successful, yet price conscious consumer, and as such, we are sensitive to the notion of products which we feel are overpriced. There are a few new timepiece models that we would have certainly added to our top 10 watches of SIHH 2015 list which we did not, simply because their prices made them less appealing options for most people. We don’t feel the need to apologize to the luxury industry for making a big deal about price, because at the end of the day, we demand real value on behalf of consumers no matter the price level. It is our opinion that luxury watch makers are doing themselves a disservice by following the lead of fashion companies by attaching a “premium” for their brand name. Instead, brand names should be indicators of quality and history versus lifestyle and prestige.

If you are a seasoned watch collector with an enviable budget and are in the market for a complex or aesthetically pleasing new timepiece, then SIHH 2015 will have a lot for you. While prices are high and selection is low for SIHH 2015 products, we did find many pretty things, as well as old favorites which have been given exciting refinements for this year. Also, don’t forget what I said earlier about brands holding off on “major announcements” for later in 2015 that should prove interesting later on into the year.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41mm 15400 Two-Tone

Okay, yeah, it is just the larger (more jumbo?) version of the Audemars Royal Oak in the 41mm wide case (debuted in 2012) presented in a two-tone style with steel and 18k rose gold elements – but it is still a really cool Royal Oak. “Line extensions,” as the industry refers to them (variations on existing models), are pretty much the cornerstone of new releases at SIHH 2015 and one of the ones we all seem to want is the iconic Royal Oak in a 41mm wide case (there is a smaller ladies' version as well) in a mostly steel case but with an 18k rose gold bezel and bracelet links. This is actually the first ever two-tone steel and rose gold Royal Oak (even though years ago, the brand had some two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold models), and with the larger case and silver/white dial it looks particularly handsome. At $25,600, here is just one more daily wear luxury watch for people to choose from. audemarspiguet.com

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph Caliber 3500

It is limited to only 10 pieces (for now, at least, in this execution) and it is priced north of $350,000, but the brand new Vacheron Constantin Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph Caliber 3500 watch is a timepiece pretty much everyone agrees is both lovely and desirable in the most classic of means. Set as the flagship for Vacheron Constantin’s new Harmony collection, this new watch collector’s dream sits thin and bold on the wrist, with a dial that tells no one but the most knowledgeable of aficionados it is something special.

A few years, ago the notion of “stealth wealth” was pretty popular - meaning a very high-end piece that only a select group of people could recognize as being special. Today, bling is back in a big way, but that doesn’t need to apply everywhere. In platinum, this new ultra-thin self-winding (with a peripheral rotor) chronograph features just the time and power reserve with a split-second monopusher controlled chronograph. Those in the know are aware that split-second chronographs are among the most difficult to assemble mechanical complications around – which, coming from Vacheron Constantin, helps explain the intense asking price. The caliber 3500 movement is beautiful, with a new element we find in a series of novel Vacheron Constantin calibers – a hand-engraved 18k gold balance cock. At $369,200 the limited edition of 10 Vacheron Constantin Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph Caliber 3500 is sublime, and destined for the very few. vacheron-constantin.com

Montblanc Meisterstuck Heritage Chronometrie

One of the most difficult “new” things to find at SIHH 2015 was more affordable watches that people who want value under $5,000 can get excited about. Montblanc continues to build out their Meisterstuck Heritage collection with the very thin “Chronometrie” model that charmed us with its simple two hand dial and dress watch proportions available in both steel and 18k rose gold. Let’s be honest that there is nothing inherently unique or “Chronometrie” about the watch, but it does have a pleasantly familiar dressy design with a very thin ETA 7001 manually wound movement that makes for a reliable design that will be relevant for years to come. Priced starting at $2,260 for the steel model. montblanc.com

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton

Often misunderstood or dismissed by seasoned watch aficionados, Roger Dubuis is a serious “manufacture” brand that is working hard to rediscover itself after one of the most interesting and tumultuous modern histories of all major luxury watch brands. Each year, we know that Roger Dubuis will attempt to amaze and shock us with an avant garde booth and messaging campaign at SIHH, and their models focus very much on overt displays of wealth and wild design. It certainly isn’t for everyone’s taste. Where Roger Dubuis excels, however, is in the production of interesting skeletonized movements that until now have, for the most part, featured tourbillons. For 2015, Roger Dubuis has finally decided to produce a tourbillon-less version of their cool skeletonized movement in the Excalibur 42 Automatic Skeleton watch.

This year, Roger Dubuis has started to use the “Spider” term to refer to the distinct design of their web-like, dark-colored skeletonized movements. What is important is the “Roger Dubuis” star-shape that is present in the design. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Automatic Skeleton is a big deal because the fashionably cool high-end design of their skeletonized movements is finally available without a tourbillon, and with an automatic micro-rotor. Available in black-colored titanium or 18k rose gold, this reasonably sized 42mm-wide Excalibur collection watch is wild and also legible, yet suitable for much more frequent wear than a delicate tourbillon. In our opinion, Roger Dubuis has hit a sweet spot opening up an interesting look to a whole new group of people not interested in going way over $100,000 for the novelty of something cool. Priced starting at $63,900 in DLC black titanium to about $80,000 in 18k rose gold – the Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Automatic Skeleton is finally a bit more wearable and consumer friendly. rogerdubuis.com

Cartier Clé de Cartier

Cartier is the most important brand in terms of revenue for the Richemont Group, and each year, the famous watch and jewelry maker does not screw around when it comes to new releases. The new Clé de Cartier collection is perhaps the only new mainstream –oriented new collection that we saw during the entire show which presented both a new case and movement. We also fully expect Cartier to further flesh out the Clé collection in the years to come with additional material choices and complications. For 2015, the Cartier Clé (which stands for “key”) is available exclusively in gold cases, but we feel that Cartier will more than likely add steel versions in the future. The largest Clé case size is for men and is 40mm wide in a sort of tonneau-shaped case with a round dial.

The simple three-hand dial is immediately “Cartier” in style but here matches black Roman numerals with black - versus blued steel - hands, which we find to be rather sharp looking. Inside the Clé is an in-house made Cartier automatic movement with traditionally laid out central seconds, hours, and minutes hands. This is a bit distinctive from the layout of the also in-house made 1904 MC movement which has a subsidiary seconds dial. Going back to the “key” part of the watch’s name, Cartier developed a pretty cool new crown for the Clé, which they say is inspired by the winding keys from old clocks. While not round, it is simple to use and has a nice turning and locking action which is difficult to describe, but very pleasant in its operation. Cartier even offers a new bracelet design which has thin links and is very comfortable. In the end, the Clé is yet another tasty flavor of Cartier watches for mainstream luxury consumption which adds to the brand’s existing portfolio of attractive models. The 2015 models in only gold are priced accordingly (which is a lot, with the optional bracelets), but be sure to keep an eye on the evolution of the Clé as Cartier likely adds steel models in the future. Priced at $21,000 in 18k white gold. cartier.com

Panerai Radiomir 47mm 3 Days Firenze Acciaio

We all agree that this new limited edition – exclusive to Florence – Panerai PAM00604 watch is a great way to enjoy the core design aesthetic of the historically Italian dive watch brand with a new artistic angle. Panerai has taken its most seminal Radiomir case and dial design and combined it with a reliable Panerai P.3000 manually wound hours and minutes only movement, as well as a case which has been totally hand-engraved. At 47mm wide on the wrist, it wears boldly but comfortably in the Radiomir case, and the black-filled engravings are tasteful yet something most people would not expect from the typically simple Panerai wearing experience. It isn’t cheap at17,000 Euros, or easy to buy, given that only 99 will be made for the Panerai flagship store in Firenze, Italy (Florence) – but this is a piece we think Panerai collectors will fawn over with ease. panerai.com

Richard Mille RM 11 Bracelet

Like most other “new” watches for SIHH 2015, this Richard Mille RM 11 isn’t new – but the RM 11 is one of the most iconic pieces in the larger Richard Mille collection which has experienced countless executions over the years. So why is it on the list here for 2015? Well, for the first time, Richard Mille has added the option of a titanium bracelet for a men’s watch. 2015 actually sees two other Richard Mille watches for women with bracelets – though none are quite as impressive as that for the RM 11. Cool looking and comfortable, the RM 11 on the bracelet immediately feels like something which has been in the Richard Mille family for a while. It’s mostly brushed surfaces are given delicate, polished beveled edges, and the clever spring-loaded deployant Richard Mille fans have enjoyed on the brand’s bracelets for a while. richardmille.com

 Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Tourbillon Vision

A discreet Greubel Forsey watch? It can happen, and it did happen, with the new Tourbillon 24 Secondes Tourbillon Vision. This is the most basic looking Greubel Forsey timepiece ever, and it even comes with an actually totally round case without the brand’s typical “asymmetrique” bulges – well save for the tourbillon bubble on the caseback (which you can’t even actually feel while it is on the wrist). Of course, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Vision isn’t actually simple, as the dial uses a pantheon of complex construction techniques only a brand like Greubel Forsey would even consider putting so much effort into. The Vision uses a modified version of the existing 288-piece movement with an inclined tourbillon that rotates once each 24 seconds. The dial display only has the time with subsidiary seconds dial and a window shows a rather discreet view of the tourbillon which can be better viewed through the rear of the watch. At 43.5mm wide in 18k white gold for 2015, this limited edition of 22 pieces is a unique selection of design elements and masterful technique that shows the range collectors can expect from one of the most meticulous timepiece makers around. Price is north of $300,000. greubelforsey.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Tradition Grand Complication

The watch so grand they named it twice? For what Jaeger-LeCoultre lacks in clever product naming they make up for in sheer horological excellence. The Master Grand Tradition Grand Complication for 2015 doesn’t offer a new movement, but it does offer a highly refined, fresh way of enjoying this existing Jaeger-LeCoultre collection model that contains the extremely admirable in-house made Caliber 945 which, like the Duometre family, contains a movement with German Silver plates. Want an exotic mix of high-end complications? How about a sidereal orbital tourbillon that, in addition to oscillating like a normal tourbillon, makes a full rotation around the dial once each day – according to sidereal time (which varies from “civil” time just a little bit). In addition to the tourbillon and astronomical complications, that Grand Master Tradition Grand Complication also just happens to have a rather impressive minute repeater that uses Jaeger-LeCoultre’s crystal gong system that help gives the chimes the best sound possible. Price is north of $200,000. jaeger-lecoultre.com

 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Wait, didn’t the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 watch come out when the brand “re-launched” in 1994? Yeah, and for the brand’s most basic yet iconic watch, little has changed in over 20 years. For 2015, A. Lange & Söhne revisits the Lange 1 not with major design changes, but with a freshened-up movement that is fully in-house, including an A. Lange & Söhne produced hair spring. The dial of the 2015 Lange 1 offers a few of the modern touches A. lange & Söhne has recently given to the Lange 1 collection. At 38.5mm wide, the Lange 1 is modestly sized, and there is the larger Grande Lange 1 as well. We appreciate that A. Lange & Söhne is putting a lot of effort into strengthening their core collection models as well as ensuring that even at their beginning prices consumers are getting the most bang for their buck when wanting to enjoy this premiere German luxury watch brand. Price is 29,800 Euros in 18k rose or yellow gold and 42,300 Euros in platinum. alange-soehne.com

SEE ALSO: When To Buy Your First Rolex

Join the conversation about this story »

Rolex really isn't like any other watch brand. In fact, the privately held, independently run entity isn't like most other companies. I can say this now with a lot more clarity than most people because I was there.

Rolex rarely allows anyone into its hallowed halls, but I was invited to visit their four manufacture locations in Switzerland and experience first-hand how Rolex makes their famous watches.

Rolex is a universe of its own: respected; admired; valued; and known across the globe. Sometimes I sit back and think about all that Rolex is and does and find it hard to believe that at the end of the day, they just make watches.

Rolex does just make watches and their timepieces have taken on a role beyond that of mere timekeeper. Having said that, the reason a "Rolex is a Rolex" is because they are good watches and tell pretty good time. It's taken me over a decade to fully appreciate the brand, and it will probably take longer before I learn everything I'd like to know about them.

The purpose of this article isn't to give you a totally inside look at Rolex. That isn't possible because as of now there is a strict "no photography" policy at Rolex. There is a very real mystique behind the manufacture because they are relatively closed and their operations aren't public. The brand takes the concept of Swiss discreetness to a new level, and in a lot of ways that is good for them. So since we can't show you what we saw, I'd like to share with you some interesting facts that every Rolex and watch lover should know.

1. They Use An Expensive And Difficult To Machine Steel Because It Looks Better

Many watch lovers are familiar with the fact that Rolex uses a type of steel that no one else uses. Stainless steel is not all the same. Steel comes in various types and grades... and most steel watches are made from a type of stainless steel called 316L. Today, all the steel in Rolex watches is made from 904L steel, and as far as we know, pretty much no one else does. Why?

Rolex used to use the same steel as everyone else, but in around 2003 they moved their entire steel production to 904L steel. In 1988 they released their first 904L steel watch with a few versions of the Sea-Dweller. 904L steel is more rust and corrosion resistant, and is somewhat harder than other steels. Most important to Rolex, is that 904L steel, when worked properly, is able to take (and hold) polishes incredibly well. If you've ever noticed that steel on a Rolex watch looks different than other watches, it is because of 904L steel, and how Rolex has learned to work with it.

A natural question is why doesn't everyone else in the watch industry use 904L steel? A good guess is because it is more expensive and much more complicated to machine. Rolex had to replace most of their steel working machines and tools to deal with 904L steel. It made sense for them because of the amount of watches they produce, and because they make all their parts in-house. Most other brands get their cases made from outside suppliers. So even though 904L steel is better than 316L steel for watches, it is more expensive, requires special tools and skills, and is overall more difficult to work with. This has prevented other brands (so far) from taking advantage of it, and is something special that Rolex has. The benefit is obvious once you handle any steel Rolex watch.

2. Rolex Has Its Own Science Lab

Given everything Rolex has done over the years it shouldn't come as a surprise that they have an internal Research & Development department. However, Rolex takes it well beyond that. Rolex has not one, but several different types of extremely well-equipped professional science labs at their various facilities. The purpose of these labs isn't just to research new watches and things that may go into watches, but also to research more effective and efficient manufacturing techniques. One way of looking at Rolex is that they are an extremely competent and almost obsessively organized manufacturing company - that just happens to make timepieces.

Rolex labs are as diverse as they are amazing. Perhaps the most visually interesting is the chemistry lab. Full of beakers and tubes that carry liquids and gases, the Rolex chemistry lab is full of highly trained scientists. What is it mostly used for? Well one thing that Rolex stated is that the lab is used for developing and researching oils and lubricants that they use in machines during the manufacturing process.

Rolex has a room with multiple electron microscopes and some gas spectrometers. They are able to take an extremely close look at metals and other materials to investigate the effects of machining and manufacturing techniques. These large areas are extremely impressive and are used seriously on a regular basis to remedy or prevent possible problems.

Of course Rolex also uses its science labs on the watches themselves. An interesting room is the stress test room. Here watch movements, bracelets, and cases undergo simulated wear and abuse on custom-made machines and robots. Let's just say that it would not be unreasonable to assume your typical Rolex is designed to last a lifetime (or two).

3. Their Movements Are All Hand-Assembled And Tested

One of biggest misconceptions about Rolex is that machines build their watches. The rumor is so pervasive that even people at aBlogtoWatch believed it to be mostly true. This is because traditionally Rolex didn't communicate much on this topic. Well the truth is that Rolex watches are given all the hands-on human attention that you'd like to expect from a fine Swiss made watch.

Rolex uses machines in the process for sure. In fact, Rolex easily has the most sophisticated watch making machinery in the world. The robots and other automated tasks are really used for tasks that humans aren't as good at. These include sorting, filing, cataloging, and very delicate procedures that involve the type of care you want a machine to handle. Most of these machines are still human-operated though. And everything from Rolex movements to bracelets are assembled by hand. A machine however helps with doing things such as applying the right pressure when attaching pins, aligning parts, and pressing down hands. Having said that, all Rolex watch hands are still set by hand via a trained technician.

It would be an understatement to suggest that Rolex is obsessive about quality control. A predominant theme in the manufacture is that things are checked, re-checked, and then checked again. It feels as though their goal is to ensure that if a Rolex watch fails, it does so before it leaves the factory. Large teams of watchmakers and assembly people work on every single movement that Rolex produces. This is before and after their movements are sent to COSC for chronometer certification. And on top of that, Rolex re-tests their movements for accuracy after they are cased for several days while simulating wear before they are sent out to retailers.

4. An In-House Foundry Makes All Their Gold

Rolex makes their own gold. While they have a small handful of suppliers that send them steel (Rolex still works the steel in-house to make all the parts), all the gold and platinum is made in-house. 24k gold comes into Rolex and it is turned into 18k yellow, white, or Rolex's Everose gold (their non-fading version of 18k rose gold).

Large kilns under hot flames are used to melt and mix the metals which are then turned into cases and bracelets. Because Rolex controls the production and machining of their gold, they are able to strictly ensure not only quality, but the best looking parts. To our knowledge Rolex is the only watch manufacture that makes their own gold or even has a real foundry in-house.

5. Technology Is A Watchmaker's Best Friend

The philosophy at Rolex seems to be very pragmatic, if a human does it better, then let a human do it, if a machine does it better, then let a machine do it. In fact the reason more watchmakers don't use machines is two-fold. First of all machines are huge investments and in many instances keeping people around to do it is less expensive. Second, they don't have the production demands that Rolex does. In fact, Rolex is fortunate to have the ability to equip its facilities with robotic help where needed.

The epicenter of Rolex's automation prowess is the master supply room. Massive columns of parts are attended to by robotic servants that store and retrieve trays with parts or complete watches. A watchmaker needing parts must simply place an order with the system, and it is delivered on a series of conveyer systems to them in about 6-8 minutes.

Robotic arms populate the Rolex manufacture locations when it mostly comes to repetitive or highly detailed tasks that require consistency. Many Rolex parts are given an initial machine polish by a robot, but amazingly they are hand-finishing and polished as well. The fact is that while modern technology is a huge part of the "Rolex manufacturing machine," robotic equipment is there to assist what is a very real, human watch making operation.

6. Fort Knox Has Nothing On Rolex

It isn't surprising that Rolex is keen on security. At their foundry for example, I was given a bar to carry around that weighed in at just over $1,000,000 worth of Everose gold. There is a lot more of that, as well as valuable completed watches that need safekeeping. Rolex employs a series of extremely meticulous security checks and they had a James Bond-style safe that is located a few floors underground.

I noticed that rank and file watch assembly employees have an interesting system on their desks that required their ID badge be docked at all times after being identified with a fingerprint scan. Everything is scanned and cataloged. In fact, each Rolex watch movement has a unique serial number that is photographed and matched with a case that also has a different unique serial number. In the future when the watch is serviced, a watchmaker can learn everything there is to know about it.

Accessing the Rolex safe requires entering a bank vault door and passing an iris scanner that identifies you via your eyes. When Rolex parts move from location to location, they are transported in highly discreet unmarked (and likely heavily armored) trucks. Rolex is very serious about their safety, and for a really good reason since it is often said (in truth) that Rolex watches are just as good as money.

7. Dive Watches Are Each Individually Tested In Pressurized Tanks With Water

All Rolex Oyster case watches are thoroughly tested for water resistance. The way that this is often done at watch manufactures is with an air-pressure tank. A watch is placed in a small chamber that is filled with air, and if the pressure changes at all, it means that air leaked into the case. Each Rolex Oyster, as well as Oyster dive watches begins with this air pressure treatment. In fact, each case is tested both before and after a movement and dial are placed inside of it.

Dive watches receive a separate treatment all together. After being air pressure tested, Rolex proceeds to test the water resistance of each and every Rolex Submariner and Deep Sea watch in actual water. This type of test is much less common. Submariner watches are placed in large tubes that are filled with water to ensure that they are water resistant to 300 meters. The test is extremely complex because Rolex employs a complex system for testing if water entered the case.

After the watches exit the tank, they are heated up and a drop of cold water is placed on the crystal to see if condensation forms. An optical sensor then scans them for trace amounts of water. Less than one in a thousand watches fail the test. The story is much more intense for Deep-Sea watches. Rolex co-developed a special high-pressure water tank with COMEX to depth test each Deep-Sea watch. The pressure tank looks like something from a science fiction movie. Imagine something that looks like a several ton Gatling gun. This machine takes well over an hour and measures each watch to a pressure equivalent to 12,000 meters deep.

8. An Army Of Gemologists Work At Rolex

It has been said that Rolex has preposterous standards for the materials it buys from its suppliers. This includes things like metals as well as precious stones such as diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. Rolex has a massive gemological department whose goal it is to buy, test, arrange, and set diamonds and other precious stones in a range of Rolex models. One of the things they do is check incoming stones to ensure that they are real. Using x-rays for example, they can test diamonds to ensure they aren't fake.

Rolex reports that in the years they have been testing diamonds, only two in 20 million have been fake. That might seem like such a small amount it isn't even worth their time to perform the test. Nevertheless, to ensure absolute quality, Rolex tests each batch of diamonds. This should also have an illustrative effect on the diamonds they use, which happen to only be IF in clarity, and D-G in color (the four grades closest to white).

Each and every diamond or precious stone (no matter how large or small) on a Rolex watch is hand-selected and hand-set. Rolex employs traditional jewelers to create custom settings for stones in their most exclusive watches, done using the same processes employed in creating the world's finest jewelry. It was amazing to see this level of artisanship and delicate care inside what many people believe to be a mass producer.

9. It Takes About A Year To Make One Rolex Watch

An advertisement for Rolex long ago claimed that it takes about a year to make a single Rolex watch. As suspicious as that sounds, it is true even today. Rolex produces almost a million watches a year, but surprisingly, no shortcuts are taken in the manufacturing process from what I could observe (and I've been to a lot of watch manufactures). Rolex is however interested in quality and efficiency. Basically, the entire company seems focused on producing the best watches, and continually seeing how they can make them better.

If you look at Rolex watches over time, they are more about evolution rather than revolution. This idea of always improving versus changing goes right into their manufacturing process as well. They are constantly learning how to improve quality through better processes and techniques. The move from aluminum to ceramic bezel inserts is a perfect example. Nevertheless, from starting to shape the parts of the case to testing a completed watch for accuracy, the process takes around one year.

Of course Rolex could speed this up for certain models if necessary, but each watch requires so many parts and virtually everything is made from base materials in-house. Once all the parts for a Rolex watch are completed, they are then mostly hand-assembled and individually tested. The testing and quality assurance process is rather intense.

A good example is how Rolex makes each of their watch dials. All of the dial are made in-house, and one of the most impressive facts is that all of the applied hour markers are set individually by hand. Often times at other brands, machines perform this process, but Rolex learned that a human eye is better trained to spot problems. So individual hour markers are applied and riveted by hand. Dials are dropped from 20cm up in the air to ensure that none of the hour markers fall out. This is a careful and time consuming process, and it is among the many elements of making watches at Rolex that is done by a skilled human being. Taken together, because of Rolex's rather fanatical dedication to quality across their huge production, watches take on average, about a year to produce.

10. Rolex Makes Virtually Everything In-House

After having said all of the above it probably doesn't come as a big surprise that Rolex makes virtually everything in-house as a totally vertically integrated manufacturer. As of right now the only major parts that Rolex doesn't make for all of their watches are the synthetic sapphire crystals and many of the dial hands (though I have a feeling the latter will change in the next several years). Rolex produces their own gold, cases, bracelets, dials, bezels, and movements in-house with incredible efficiency and quality.

It isn't just that Rolex can afford all the most useful machines, but also that Rolex invests into processes and techniques that are tightly-held trade secrets. The real value inside the Rolex factory are their tools and know-how, which no one could replicate even if they had a copy of their facilities.

Making everything in-house allows Rolex to be truly independent. Watch collector's often agree that there is the watch industry and then there is Rolex - the two just happen to make similar products. It is hard to love watches and not appreciate what Rolex is and what they produce. Traveling there I can fully understand why they aren't only the most successful high-end watch manufacture, but why they are also one of the most successful luxury brands in the world.

If I had to say one last thing about Rolex, it is that even if you personally don't like how their products look on your wrist (which puts you in a minority or people if after a few years you don't appreciate at least some models), you simply can't deny the absolute sense of confidence, reliability, and dignity the brand name communicates. I can personally attest to that. rolex.com

Join the conversation about this story »

Love luxury watches but can't afford them? Feeling slighted that all the cool timepieces you seem to be interested in are out of your budget? Frustrated when people with more money and less taste than you get to enjoy the finer watches in life? You aren't alone. One of the most difficult parts of being a watch guy (or woman) for many people is reconciling with the fact that a lot of the products you want to buy are more expensive than you can afford. This is tough to deal with, and we can't pretend that we can teach you secret ways to own your favorite high-end watches without having to pay for them.

Having said that, we've put together 7 ways to survive as a watch lover on a budget so that you can enjoy as many of the best watches possible for your hard earned money. It is possible to be a serious watch lover while also being relatively economical - and you don't even need to resort to becoming a watch blogger to do so! It will just take a bit more time and energy, but for many timepiece aficionados it will be more than worth it for the results.

1. Change Straps To Liven Up Existing Watches

Experienced watch lovers will tell you that a sure way to spruce up a boring watch or one that you've had for a while is to change the strap. Sometimes this can even mean swapping out a strap for a bracelet - or vice versa. Of course, you need to start with a watch whose straps can be easily changed (no proprietary strap connections, etc...) and you'll need to measure the width of the strap (often 18mm - 24mm) in order to know what strap or bracelet to buy. Furthermore, you'll need a bit of good taste and an eye for matching colors to make sure you select the right straps.

Ideally, you can consult with a "strap professional," but that can quickly take you out of budget territory. Remember, you pay less when doing things yourself, generally. With that said, you can always take pictures of your watch with its current strap and ask members of the watch community on forums or via social media to ask for advice on what types of straps to get for your watch. Often this comes down to just strapping a nylon NATO-style strap on an existing timepiece, but we tend to suggest investing in some nice animal skin straps which tend to look more classy in more situations.

I also want to add a statement that I think needs to be made clear: a lot of cheap watches come with terrible straps. Terrible straps that, if removed and replaced, will make your cheaper watch look so much better. Actually, this even applies to not so cheap watches that can sometimes come on boring or just plain ugly straps. Some watch makers are masters at matching their timepieces with great straps, but too many are not. The "on-a-budget" watch lover needs to master to art of "strap reclassification" so that they can wear watches that appear to be above their pay scale.

2. Troll The Forums & eBay For Deals

Allow me to say right off the bat that when it comes to getting a good watch deal, "too good to be true" probably is. You can find cheap watches, but you can't find that many watches which are too cheap. If they are, well - then you probably don't want them. I say all this first because there are a lot of really inexpensive watches from brands that you've never heard of produced to look okay in pictures, but that are really disappointing when you get them hands-on. So when searching places to buy watches from other owners on watch-related forums or on eBay, you have to know what you are looking for.

Watches On eBay

It used to be, back in the "good 'ol days," that you could find amazing deals on eBay from people who didn't really know what they were selling or when there simply wasn't that much competition for cool but obscure watches. While you might be surprised at the volume of people just like you searching eBay for watches on a regular basis, there are deals to be had. For the best watches, you'll get "fair deals," and occasionally amazing ones. The trick to eBay is using its "saved search" function so that eBay e-mails you when new watches you are interested in show up. This way, you don't have to endlessly look for the same models or brands over and over again.

Saved searches tell you when new stuff comes around and you can get a good idea of what things are worth as well as how many are around. If something is popular, you can wait around for "just the right deal," and not potentially waste money. eBay is also about understanding seller trust and reliability. This means buying from private owners might get you a slightly better price, but the condition of the watch might not be as good as when you buy a watch on eBay from a dealer.

While eBay has competitors when it comes to online watch auctions, they are still the best deal around when it comes to selection and fair pricing. For more on watch auctions in general, read our article here.

Watch Forums

People who love watches and often buy and sell them prefer to work within their own community when dealing with buyers and sellers. This is because of the inherent feeling of trust and mutual understanding - though, it can be risky. However, for the most part, if you are in an established watch forum community dealing with a known entity, you are going to be okay. Watch forums are very often the source of some of the best pre-owned watch deals around, because owners want to quickly sell them to fund something else. The fact that many sellers are on a time crunch is to your advantage. This is especially true when they lower the price a few times due to lack of interest.

In most instances, when it comes to buying a watch from an owner on a watch forum, the buyer has the advantage - though you do often need to troll the sales corner of watch forums on a regular basis - and you never know what will show up. A good way to help is by doing something like the saved search for eBay, only using Google Alerts. Forum posts selling watches often use language such as "FS" (For Sale) or "FSOT" (For Sale Or Trade) next to the name of a watch and model. So using Google Alerts you can have Google e-mail you when it detects new content on the internet that matches (for example) "FS Rolex Submariner."

3. Take Risks On Kickstarter And Crowd-Funded Watch Campaigns

aBlogtoWatch currently gets about 1-5 emails a week from people excited about their new watch campaigns on crowd-funding sites like Kickstarter and Indiegogo. We can't cover them all, and in fact, we don't cover most of them. Not fair, you say? There are some awesome watches on Kickstarter, you say? Maybe, but we prefer to write about mostly watches that we know for sure will be made or are currently available. A lot of the stuff on Kickstarter is there because it hasn't been made yet - and sometimes it never gets made, because either the campaign doesn't get fully funded or because technically the projects proved too challenging.

So unless something is really interesting or noteworthy, aBlogtoWatch tends to not cover watches on Kickstater. Having said that, don't let our editorial reflectance stop you from being a crowd-funding campaign backer. I know a lot of people who are really happy with some of the watch projects they backed on sites like Kickstarter. You generally have to wait a while to receive your watch, and sometimes the final product isn't exactly as you imagined it would be ("final production changes" aren't uncommon).

With some risk can come great reward. Assuming you've identified a truly interesting watch project on Kickstarter for a good price, you are going to get a lot of watch for your money if you "back" it. This is because as a consumer, you are taking a risk, and being rewarded not only with a good value, but often something very exclusive or unique. One of the best ways to get an inexpensive and interesting limited edition watch is by backing a watch project on Kickstarter or Indiegogo.

Just be prepared to wait it out sometimes. In consideration of this last point, I know a lot of people who "invest" in a new watch project on Kickstarter each few months so that they know over time they will be getting new watches delivered to them on a frequent basis. To sum up, you can get a lot of watch for your money and some incredibly inexpensive watch deals by backing Kickstarter and Indiegogo crowdfunding campaigns - but they aren't without some risk and a wait.

4. Why Not Pre-Owned Watches? But Perhaps Not Vintage Timepieces.

It goes without saying that if you don't want to pay full price for a new watch, you can try to locate a used one. The pre-owned watch world works similarly to that of the used car world. Items lose value and depreciate after their initial purchase but given their inherent values live on to be sold and sold again after the original owner has let go of them. Pre-owned watches can be purchased from individual sellers or, more commonly, from dealers who compete to offer consumers the best watches as the best prices.

Looking for pre-owned watches can be an excellent way to get the watch you want for less money, and often in a condition you can live with. Of course, you won't be buying a brand new watch, and it won't come with that new watch factory warranty, but in many respects, you are getting much of the same experience.The caveat to advising you to purchase a pre-owned watch in lieu of a new watch in order to save money must be tempered with the advice that buying a vintage watch is not always a good way to save money. aBlogtoWatch goes back and forth discussing the merits of buying vintage timepieces. Vintage watches can be cool, have wonderful stories, and offer a special ownership experience that might not be matched by a new timepiece. Having said that, many vintage watches are like vintage cars - and with that comes all the servicing and maintenance headaches. Furthermore, depending on how old or rare a vintage watch is, it might not be something that can be serviced at all.

Be weary of purchasing vintage watches with unique technology or parts. Chances are that if it breaks (or it might even arrive broken) you will never be able to get it repaired at any price. If you happen to find that one person around the world that can fix your rare vintage watch, good luck getting a price that isn't insane.

Remember, if your goal is to save money or spend as little as possible, then that interesting vintage watch with its attractive price can quickly become a money pit when it comes to repairing or servicing it. You are far better off purchasing watches that are less than 20 years old if you are looking to get a pre-owned timepiece as a way of saving money on buying a new one.

5. Save Up, Sell, & Trade Watches

People with deep pockets have the luxury of buying many of the new watches they want without having to think too much about it. That is just a fact and something the luxury watch industry is well aware of. Because these types of people are more concerned with "cool, exclusive, new, etc..." versus mere price, many high-end watch makers seek to appeal to them in areas outside of offering a good price for a good watch. What has made this worse is that watches that were once much more affordable 5 to 15 years ago are now sometimes two to four times their historic prices.

What this means for many watch buyers is that people need to be much more considerate with their purchase choices. The majority of watch collectors today are buying fewer watches and being smarter with their money. This inherently also means saving up for new watches, and selling watches in order to fund new purchases.

Some aBlogtoWatch writers as well as people I know actually spend relatively little new money on watches when they acquire new items. They do this buy selling and trading what they have for what they want. aBlogtoWatch has a good article on how to trade watches here, but the basic idea is simple: work with a dealer or private individual to trade a watch you have either wholly - or with some money for something else you want. Sure this makes it difficult to "grow" a watch collection, but you do get the benefit of variety and being able to explore many more watches than you'd otherwise be able to afford. Even a lot of "rich guys" engage in frequent watch selling and trading - only with watches that are at levels most people might never be able to afford in the first place.

The moral of the story is that if you invest wisely in watches that are known to retain value well and have ongoing desirability, you can move value around in clever ways without having to resort to buying new watches outright when you want something new. Becoming skilled at trading watches as well as selling unwanted pieces from your collection is a time-honored approach for enjoying a lot of luxury watches without needing the full budget for them all.

6. Japanophilia: Japanese Watches Are Easy To Love And Mostly Inexpensive

When people ask me about getting new mechanical watches for under $500, the first thing out of my mouth is always "get something from a Japanese watch maker like Seiko, Orient, or Citizen." I say this because for the most part, these companies produce the best quality "cheap" mechanical watches. I suppose that also goes for quartz watches, if you are into that. When I talk of quality, I don't just mean the movements, but also the cases, dials, straps, etc... Japanese watches are often the first "real" watches most watch lovers end up getting, and many people (even though seriously into luxury Swiss watches) find themselves buying Japanese watches for years.

Why are we mentioning Japanese watches versus "Asian watches?" The latter term incorporates Chinese watches as well - and this is a bit of a contentious topic. Allow me to explain. Chinese suppliers produce many of the parts that go into a lot of the watches people love - even very high-end ones. This is one of the Swiss watch industry's dirty little secrets, but it is a fact of life. When it comes down to it you should only be concerned with quality, and not where things come from.

Having said that, I cannot testify to the ongoing reliability of Chinese-made mechanical movements. Some are fine, but many are not. There are too many problems with Chinese movements for me to wholeheartedly recommend them. Even if they work for a while, Chinese movements are currently far too likely to break over time compared to Swiss or Japanese movements. If looking for an economical mechanical movement, your best best is still something from Japan - and the major producers of Japanese mechanical movements are Seiko, Orient, and Citizen (Miyota).

aBlogtoWatch previously published an article on how Orient dress watches are a solid choice for budget lovers, and we've regularly recommended the Seiko Monster dive watch as one of the best "first mechanical watches" for people just starting out. Citizen is producing more and more mechanical movements in their own collection, and their company Miyota produces the majority of Japanese-made mechanical movements found in third-party watches. For a few hundred dollars, you can easily get a fantastic mechanical watch made in Japan that would be unthinkable at Swiss Made prices.

7. Look For Harder To Find, Small Indie Watch Makers

Some of the best new watch deals out there are from smaller, often new independently-owned watch brands. We at aBlogtoWatch try to cover these companies as often as we can - and most of them have new watches that range from a few hundred bucks to a few thousand. The kicker is that because they are made by watch lovers for watch lovers, you are going to get pretty good deals by people who attempted to produce watches "that they want to personally own." That is a win-win situation in many instances.

The problem with buying watches from smaller companies is that you have to deal with all the issues that comes from working with less organization and budget. Very few of the smaller independently run watch companies produce their own products - which is universally true for all watches priced at under $1,000. It is only when you get into extremely high-end watches from small brands do they produce their own parts and thus have more control over when they can deliver products - and such brands are way outside the scope of this article.Smaller watch makers work with third-party suppliers to make what they feel are cool watches at prices that they hope will excite customers. Some of these watches are beautiful, and many are just plain ugly. What you are often buying is the taste and attention to detail of the founder. So just make sure your own tastes and attention to detail match theirs.

Finding small independent "indie" watch makers is also tough. Forums, blogs, and social media are the best places to find them. I say forums because many of them poll active watch communities there for feedback on upcoming models and designs. However, more and more of this is occurring on social media. By the time a small brand is covered on aBlogtoWatch, chances are that the products are available for sale – though given the amount of these projects out there, it can be difficult to learn about them all or constantly be on the look out. Just be aware that getting timepieces from established small brands with a direct to consumer sales model (no middleman) is often a very healthy way to get a great watch at a good price – and many are priced at under $1,000.

These seven points conclude our suggestions and ideas for watch lovers out there on a budget – as most of us are – but we are looking forward to hearing your relevant ideas and experiences as well, so don't hesitate to share them in the comments!

SEE ALSO: How and why Rolex prices have increased over time

DON'T FORGET: Follow Business Insider's Life on Facebook!

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: 3 Watches You Should Wear If You Want To Impress People

You start the search for a women’s watch just like you do any search today: you Google it.

Unfortunately, the world’s most powerful search tool doesn’t know your special lady friend’s tastes, and you’ll quickly find that search engine optimization in this case leads to an ocean of “designer watches” — quartz watches, made by large-scale watchmakers but branded and sold by big-name fashion brands with a significant markup — and “best of” lists.

These lists are filled mostly with those very same designer watches and mechanical watches from Swiss brands studded with jewels and priced like mid-size sedans.

When it comes to buying a watch for a woman, not all designer watches are bad watches, just as not all high-end mechanical watches are ones your significant other will enjoy (nor will they all work for your budget). But still, the current dichotomy of the women’s watch market — high horology on one side, overpriced big-name designer watches on the other — is intimidating.

“In the women’s watch market, it’s even easier to get caught up in buying something that’s really overvalued”, says James Lamdin, a vintage watch collector and the founder and CEO of online vintage watch boutique analog/shift. “Because they don’t believe their consumers are going to pay as much attention, [designer brands] are more likely to rip you off with a junk watch for a ton of money.”

But Lamdin and other watch experts maintain that there are good options out there. In the $100 to $1,000 price range, the key seems to be finding the sweet spot inhabited by the right kind of designer watches (that is, quartz but still well made, and not flagrantly or even moderately marked up), the affordable end of quartz and mechanical watches from more respected watchmakers, and smaller-sized vintage pieces. The eight examples we’ve selected are the starting point for your search.

One may be perfect for the important woman in your life; more likely, you’ll need to use your knowledge of her style preferences to close in on the watch that’ll make her think of you whenever someone asks the time.

Timex for J.Crew Vintage Field Army Watch

This is a designer watch, made for J.Crew by Timex — but at this low price point, Timex is arguably the best option around. Its distressed dial, 12- and 24-hour markers and olive nylon strap also prove an important point: excellent women’s watches needn’t be feminine. (The Timex Weekender is a great, straightforward alternative, as is the dressier Timex Easy Reader — both for well under a hundred bucks.) $98

Orient Open Heart Classic

Orient is a great affordable watchmaker and their Open Heart, at 36mm and with its see-through case back and portal on the dial, is the perfect entry-level watch for witnessing the methodical beauty of the mechanical movement. $200+

Vintage Omega Ladymatic

Lamdin suggests vintage men’s watches from the 1930s, ’40s, ’50s and ’60s fit very well on most women’s wrists and embody a classic style most brands are still seeking to execute today. For watches made specifically for women, the Ladymatic hit the nail on the head the first time around when it was released in 1955. As always with vintage watches, buy the best quality you can afford and ensure the product and the seller are both genuine. $250+

Victorinox Victoria Large

Single-tone silver, at first glance a bit severe, pairs with the textured sunburst dial to work as both classic and a touch avant garde. It’s a unique look from the respected, affordable brand. $550+

Uniform Wares Polished Steel

Uniform Wares’ movements are Swiss quartz, their straps (in German mesh, Nappa and Cordovan leather and Parisian galuchat) are sourced from Europe, and their cases are built in-house. But the small British boutique escapes “overpriced!” cries because of its spot-on Bauhaus style. $560+

Tissot Le Locle Women’s Automatic

Swiss brand Tissot’s Le Locle is a good upgrade from the Victorinox Victoria, offering a more traditional textured dial and an automatic ETA movement rather than quartz, for around $100 more. $650

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600

In the past five years, Lamdin says, supermodels began wearing men’s steel sports watches like the Rolex Submariner, launching a trend in that direction that continues today. Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident is a much more affordable alternative and comes in 133 possible combinations, so you can fit the watch to the gal. $835

Vintage Cartier Tank

If you want a classic women’s watch, this is it. (As Lamdin puts it: “A pair of pearl earrings will always be in fashion. A Cartier tank will always be in fashion. A white Michael Kors watch will not always be in fashion.”) This example is gold plated in near-perfect condition with a manual wind movement; less rare pieces can be found for several hundred dollars less. $1,350

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: Research Reveals Why Men Cheat, And It's Not What You Think

The most expensive Apple Watch set to go on sale in April will have to cost around $10,000, according to analysis done by the timepiece blog Grail Watch.

That's mostly because the Apple Watch Edition has a frame made from solid 18-karat gold, which is very expensive.

Grail Watch notes that gold sells for between $1,200 and $1,300 per ounce these days. By that measure, the Apple Watch Edition's frame would cost around $8,300 for the larger 42mm version, excluding all other costs.

That's assuming the watch's case is made from solid gold, not gold-plated. But the blog notes that Apple's marketing material never uses "gold-plated" or "gold-filled," which is conventional terminology for gold-plated materials, and that Apple must abide by laws governing how jewelry makers describe their products.

The conventional wisdom so far has been that the Apple Watch Edition will cost $5,000. Apple has only announced the price of the low-end Apple Watch Sport, which will sell for $349.

But gold-framed luxury watches usually go for well above the $10,000 mark. Cartier's Tank MC lists for $22,000 and Jager-LeCoultre's Reverso Squadra Hometime lists for over $23,000.

Even if the Apple Watch Edition sells for less than its analog competitors, it will still be Apple's most expensive product.

Grail Watch predicts the larger Apple Watch Edition will go for $9,999, with the smaller version retailing for $7,999.

SEE ALSO: Apple designer Jony Ive's favorite cars

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: 14 things you didn't know your iPhone headphones could do

The most important timepiece takeaways from the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Switzerland. 

1. WATCH SIZES ARE SHRINKING

Emperador Coussin 1270S, PIAGET, piaget.com

Altiplano Chronograph, PIAGET, piaget.com

2. DRESSY TIMEPIECES FOR GROWN-UP GEARHEADS

Royal Oak Concept RD1, AUDEMARS PIGUET, audemarspiguet.com

Rotonde Annual Calendar, CARTIER, cartier.usTourbillon 24-Secondes Vision, GREUBEL FORSEY, greubelforsey.com

3. CELESTIAL INSPIRATION

Duomètre Sphérotourbillon Moon, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.comAtmos Marqueterie Céleste, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.comRendez-Vous Moon, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.comMaster Grande Complication, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.com

Orbis Terrarum, MONTBLANC, montblanc.com

GMT, GREUBEL FORSEY, greubelforsey.com

4. DIAMONDS ARE STILL A GIRL’S BEST FRIENDS

Rendez-Vous Celestial, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.com

Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Volant Orbital, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.com

Excalibur Creative Skeleton Brocéliande, ROGER DUBUIS, rogerdubuis.com

5. CRYSTALS AND GEMSTONES TAKE OVER

Diamond Punk, AUGEMARS PIGUET, audemarspiguet.com

Master Calendar with meteorite dial, JAEGER-LECOULTRE, jaeger-lecoultre.com

World Premier Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon, ROGER DUBUIS, rogerdubuis.com

6. RETRO INFLUENCES

Harmony Monopusher Chrono, VACHERON CONSTANTIN,vacheron-constantin.com

75th Anniversary 8-Day Hand-Wound, IWC, iwc.com

SEE ALSO: 7 tricks for a watch lover on a strict budget

DON'T FORGET: Follow Business Insider's Life on Facebook!

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: 14 things you didn't know your iPhone headphones could do

Apple still has yet to announce the official pricing of its high-end Apple Watch Edition, and while some are speculating that it could cost between $10,000 and $20,000, luxury design company Brikk is already offering pre-orders on a custom diamond-studded Apple Watch that costs a whopping $75,000.

Brikk is offering 30 different models of the Apple Watch ranging from $7,500 to $75,000, according to MacRumors. Each watch is created by tearing down the Apple Watch and re-building it with luxury materials in Brikk's "state-of-the-art laboratory."

Like Apple, Brikk divides its lineup into three tiers, or editions: Lux Watch Standard, Lux Watch Deluxe, and Lux Watch Omni.

You're also able to choose the color, with 24-karat yellow gold, 18-karat pink gold, and 950 platinum as your options. And since Brikk is building its watches around the actual Apple Watch, you'll be able to choose between two sizes for the watch face: 38mm or 42mm, with the 42mm watch face costing extra.

The Lux Watch Standard edition, starting at $7,500, features a leather strap and a single row of diamonds around the watch face (.5 carats for 38mm version and .6 carats for the 42mm version). The Lux Watch Deluxe edition, starting at $12,000, features a leather strap with "multiple rows of diamonds around the face, buttons, and strap clasp" (2 carat diamonds for the 38mm and 2.3 carat diamonds for the 42mm version).

The top-of-the-line Lux Watch Omni edition, however, ranges between $70,000 and $75,000, and includes a diamond-studded watch face and band with 11.3 to 12 carats embedded. Pre-orders for the Lux Watch Omni require a $10,000 deposit.

All of Brikk's Lux Watches include an "aluminum zero Halliburton case with carbon fiber and suede leather interior, certificate of authenticity with diamond inside," and a 1-year warranty.

Beyond the eyebrow-raising price tag, those looking to purchase a Lux Watch will have to wait 4-6 weeks after the Apple Watch's official launch for their custom timepiece to arrive, and Brikk is quick to point out that it will "not be held liable for any design changes that Apple announces at launch."

You can browse Brikk's entire Lux Watch lineup over at its official website. 

SEE ALSO: Texting this phone number will get you 'anything you want as long as it's not illegal'

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: 14 things you didn't know your iPhone headphones could do

The Apple Watch is arriving in April, but have you seen all the different models?

The Apple Watch was created to be both a tech and fashion product, with Apple designer Jony Ive explaining that his team "worked extremely hard to make an object that, one, would be extremely desirable, but would also be personal because we don’t all want to wear the same watch."

As a result, there are three tiers: the Apple Watch (316L), Apple Watch Sport (7000 Series), and the luxury Apple Watch Edition. Beyond those three tiers, Apple also offers various sizes, colors, and bands.

To make it easier to find your favorite, we've collected all 22 versions of the Apple Watch in one place.

White: 316L stainless steel Apple Watch (38mm or 42mm case) with white fluoroelastomer sports band, stainless steel pin, sapphire crystal Retina display, and ceramic back.

Black: 316L stainless steel Apple Watch (38mm or 42mm case) with black fluoroelastomer sports band, stainless steel pin, sapphire crystal Retina display, and ceramic back.

Black leather: 316L stainless steel Apple Watch (38mm or 42mm case) with black leather Classic Buckle band, stainless steel buckle, sapphire crystal Retina display, and ceramic back.

After blowing us away with their minimalist analog watches inspired by the Helvetica typeface, Swiss watch-maker Mondaine has released their “first ever Swiss-made” smartwatch that combines classic analog design with modern technology. 

Called the ‘Helvetica No. 1 Smart’, Mondaine’s new smartwatch is similar to their recent Helvetica series, save for its smart features which are displayed in an analog format and found in its sub dial at the six o’clock marker. 

The smartwatch includes built-in fitness and sleeping trackers, which can be linked to smartphones via its accompanying app. 

Interestingly, Mondaine’s latest product looks nothing like its competitors, such as the Moto 360 and the highly anticipated Apple Watch, making it a fresh and stylish alternative for consumers. 

Take a look at Mondaine’s new smartwatch below. 

SEE ALSO: The 6 hottest watch trends of 2015

DON'T FORGET: Follow Business Insider's Life on Facebook!

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: 3 Watches You Should Wear If You Want To Impress People

At a black tie event I attended recently I heard that it's poor form for a guy to wear a wristwatch with a tuxedo.

I had never heard this before, but apparently it's a topic that's been debated heavily in the men's fashion world.

Our friend Justin Jeffers, who runs The Fine Young Gentleman andis the founder of Jay Butler shoes, gave us a very simple explanation as to why it's a fashion faux pas. 

"It goes back to the old days. It's disrespectful to your host to be checking the time when you should be focusing on having a good time and socializing, not what you have to do next."

Makes sense.

Leave those timepieces at home, fellas.  

SEE ALSO: 32 rules you must know for wearing a tuxedo

Join the conversation about this story »

NOW WATCH: 10 fashion mistakes men make over and over at the office