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If you've ever dreamed of being a pilot, this Raymond Weil watch is for you

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Raymond Weil Piper Freelancer 02

I have noticed a trend: luxury watch brands are pairing off with other brands to create new versions of their existing watches.

Now, this is by no means a new trend, but it is one that seems to have had an appreciable uptick as of late.

Unsurprisingly, these collaborations focus in on other accouterments of a luxury lifestyle.

When it comes to status symbols, owning your own plane certainly is up there, and for those who feel drawn to the products from Piper Aircraft, the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper will mean an interesting continuation of that trend.

Surprisingly enough for a collaboration like this, I see no mention of Piper Aircraft on the watch at all (we confirmed with the brand that the Piper logo only shows up on the box).

This makes for an odd collaboration, but it also makes it a bit more flexible for those who are not flying Pipers: it's simply a pilot watch from Raymond Weil.

Specific branding aside, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper definitely has a full swath of airplane-inspired cues.

What caught my eye at first was the sub-seconds dial at 9 o'clock, which brings along the look of an attitude indicator that would be found on the dashboard of a plane.

Past that, the handset subtly depicts the rotor blades found on the front of the plane, which I do really like. Along with being a nice design nod, the handset looks to be well-sized for the watch.

Raymond Weil Piper Freelancer 03Raymond Weil Piper Freelancer 04

Outside of that, we are really left with the complications that help to comprise what is considered a pilot's watch. I of course like the GMT complication (with the hand being red only at the end, that should cut down on distraction on the dial), and then there is the chronograph as well. For that, you have the chrono minutes at 12 o'clock, and hours down at 6 o'clock; that complication is rounded out by the tachymeter bezel around the AR-coated sapphire crystal. All of this is made possible by the RW5020 chronograph movement tucked into the case.

Speaking of that case, we generally expect pilot watches to be a bit larger, as that was how things were done "back in the day" to enhance legibility. Here, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper comes in at 45mm diameter (just under 14mm tall), and is made of both steel and titanium. While we do not have word on what part of the case is made of titanium, this should help cut down on the weight a bit, which is beneficial on bigger watches like these. This same combination of materials shows up on the deployant clasp, so there is a welcome consistency in materials (and, one assumes, finish).

Raymond Weil Piper Freelancer 12With the combination of GMT and chronograph complications, as well as the obvious airplane-derived cues, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper is definitely aimed at those who are pilots (or at least like to pretend that they are). While the Piper Aircraft collaboration is called out, it is surprising to not see something more on the watch that would separate it from "just another" Raymond Weil watch. For those picking up one of the 1,500 pieces of the Raymond Weil Freelancer Piper at$3,495, you'll also get a model of a Raymond Weil-branded Piper airplane - you must supply your own sound effects. You'll have time to practice, though – these aren't expected to be available until early Fall 2015. raymond-weil.com

SEE ALSO: 10 affordable watches that even watch snobs will appreciate

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NOW WATCH: Forget the Apple Watch — here's the new watch everyone on Wall Street wants


The Apple Watch looks a lot like this obscure Swiss luxury watch from the 1970s

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Apple Watch Omega Speedmaster Patek Philippe Comparison Review aBlogtoWatch 10

I've been enjoying the Apple Watch for more than a few days at the time this post was written – and it has got me thinking a lot about not just the future of electronic wrist watch functionality, but also watch design overall.

What I've been most interested in is not only how smartwatch design will continue to evolve, but also what design precedents came before the Apple Watch that either helped inspire it or that it appears to coincidentally resemble.

So, with that in mind, I felt it was a good idea to put together this fun little article on the odd similarities between the obscure Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref. 3582 (3582G) and the Apple Watch.

I am actually rather convinced Apple was not at all inspired by the Patek Philippe 3582 during the design of the Apple Watch – so I am not suggesting that this rare Patek Philippe Ellipse is some type of direct design ancestor of the Apple Watch.

Rather, I am suggesting that watch design is both cyclical and so diverse that it is often inevitable – even unique creations such as today's smartwatches are not without interesting and amusing historical aesthetic analogs.

Apple Watch Omega Speedmaster Patek Philippe Comparison Review aBlogtoWatch 2Perhaps the biggest irony is not how much the Apple Watch looks like this vintage circa 1970 Patek Philippe Ellipse reference 3582 timepiece, but instead, how much this Patek Philippe looks like the Apple Watch.

Despite Patek Philippe's highly conservative modern persona, for much of the brand's history, it was incredibly prolific when it came to design experimentation and testing new concepts. Not all of Patek Philippe's historic designs are what we could call "classics," but I think most collectors deeply appreciate just how diverse the brand's personality once was.

Apple Watch Omega Speedmaster Patek Philippe Comparison Review aBlogtoWatch 101While I think the Apple Watch is a rather lovely piece of wearable electronics, not everyone is smitten with the design. I mean, it does look like a miniature iPhone on the wrist – which is actually sort of cool. Also - and I haven't even read anyone else point this out - the Apple Watch is totally devoid of any Apple branding on the case save for text on its caseback.

Even there, the "Apple" name doesn't even exist save for the special logo which includes the Apple "apple" logo and the word "Watch." That is very interesting, if you think about it, because it shows a high level of confidence on behalf of Apple in people's ability now and in the future to immediately identify the product as the Apple Watch.

Apple Watch Patek aBlogtoWatch 4 e1434748017723Going back to the notion of some traditional watch lovers criticizing the Apple Watch design, I wonder if their opinion changes knowing that the great Patek Philippe once produced something so ironically similar with the 3582. Are these purists somewhat humbled knowing that a company as respected as Patek Philippe is arguably the ancient ancestor of the "minimalist rounded rectangle" watch case design? I wonder ...

Apple Watch Review aBlogtoWatch Chapter One 82It is a bit of a shame that I don't have the Apple Watch with the Milanese bracelet to put right next to the Patek Philippe 3582, but of course that model is the closest analog and the source of what I feel is the most amusing irony.

Instead, I submit to you the Apple Watch with the steel "Link Bracelet" along side this shining example of the Patek Philippe Ellipse 3582G in 18k white gold with an attached mesh metal 18k white gold bracelet. 

Apple Watch Patek aBlogtoWatch 2It is sort of uncanny how much the 3582 case and bracelet seem to feel revived in the Apple Watch. Of course, the 29mm wide by 34mm tall (and just 6.7mm thick) Patek Philippe is much smaller than the 42mm tall Apple Watch, but assuming the dimensions of the Patek were proportionally increased, they would look eerily alike.

The parallel design at work here speaks volumes about how watches are conceived and minds in totally separate places, in totally different times, doing totally different things, can sometimes come up with similar outcomes.

Apple Watch Patek aBlogtoWatch 8Apple Watch wrist 1Many of the Patek Philippe Ellipse 3582 watches came in 18k yellow gold and these white gold versions appear to be the most rare. This particular version is on loan from our friends at The Keystone, who specialize in selling high-quality, and often very unique vintage watches online.

They find stuff like this, which is why I like them. According to the boys at The Keystone, this particular 3582 (which is in truly excellent condition) was purchased from a collector in Japan (where so many good vintage watches come from), and is likely from the early to mid 1970s. Inside the 3582 is a mechanical, manually wound Patek Philippe caliber 23-300 PM movement.

Apple Watch Patek aBlogtoWatch 2222Apple Watch Patek aBlogtoWatch 7The design of the Patek Philippe 3582 is unique for a series of reasons. It is in the Patek Philippe Ellipse collection but doesn't have an Ellipse-shaped cased. Instead, we see the ellipse's shape as a ring around the dial to tell the time. Based on the curvature of the "golden spiral" (using the "golden ratio" and aka the "Fibonacci spiral"), this particular shape has been used in a range of Patek Philippe Ellipse watches. It is just very interesting to see it contained within a rounded rectangular case that feels very spacey looking (for the era).

The blue face and simple dial make for a pleasant presentation in the vein of Patek Philippe modern design. Few of their watch dials today are even this simple. On the wrist, the small case size of the Patek Philippe 3582 would make for a hard sell on a man these days, but as a women's watch it looks very interesting. Though I can easily see a lot of watch collectors wanting to seek out this model not for wear but rather for their collection.

Apple Watch Omega Speedmaster Patek Philippe Comparison Review aBlogtoWatch 44Why is it that I am so sure the Patek Philippe Ellipse 3582 has little or nothing to do with the Apple Watch? Well, Apple worked with designer Mark Newson, whom they officially announced hiring just a few days before the Apple Watch debut in September of 2014. The similarities between the Apple Watch and Mark Newson's previous watch design work at Ikepod have been well-noted. I think it is safe to assume that Apple had been working closely with Newson during the secret development of the Apple Watch even before their official relationship was announced.

Elements from Newson's work at the Ikepod brand from models such as the Manatee, Solaris, and Megapod can all be traced to the Apple Watch in areas such as the case as well as the bracelets and straps. Furthermore, the Apple Watch contains a lot of recent Apple "design DNA" in addition to Newson's influence.

Apple Watch Patek aBlogtoWatch 11111While I truly feel that the Apple Watch represents the future on my wrist, I am cognizant that elements of its physical design have historical analogs, and because this is going to be a much more popular consumer product around the world than most of today's mechanical watches, I find it interesting to understand some of the design history around it – as well as what might be just an interesting irony when it comes to resembling the vintage Patek Philippe Ellipse 3582. apple.com

SEE ALSO: 10 affordable watches that even watch snobs will appreciate

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NOW WATCH: Forget the Apple Watch — here's the new watch everyone on Wall Street wants

9 beautiful watches that will last a lot longer than the Apple Watch

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Rolex Daytona

You cab now buy the Apple Watch in Apple Stores. And in a select number of Apple Stores, you can buy the $10,000 Apple Watch Edition, in 18k gold.

This is Apple's first true luxury product, and it's priced accordingly.

In the world of fine watches, $10,000 is an important threshold. Once you cross that line, you start buying for investment. These are the watches that become family heirlooms: timepieces that are kept forever, worn on special occasions, and eventually passed down to children.

It's virtually guaranteed your children are not going to want a first generation Apple Watch. In fact, in only a few short years the Apple Watch Edition may only be attractive as a collectible, a first-of-its-kind device. Or it may be worth only as much as the precious metal its made from.

Luxury watch brands, on the other hand, have been making mechanical movements and gorgeous watch cases for centuries.

Their intricate movements and insanely strong pedigree helps them maintain their value. And the best part is: the technology changes very slowly.

Here are just a few smart purchases for those in the market for an investment-grade watch.

IWC Portugieser Automatic IW5007

The Portugieser is one of IWC's most popular models. With its legendary Pellaton winding system and select ceramic components, this watch is sure to hold its value.

Suggested Retail: $13,700



Rolex Datejust

Rolex is probably the most recognized watch brand in the world. This means that everyone knows how great the Datejust is — and everyone wants one.

Suggested Retail$12,750



Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a watch name that needs no introduction. It's been making spectacular watches with insanely precise movements since 1833 and the elegantly designed Master Memovox continues that tradition.

Suggested Retail: $11,100



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Bentley is going to build 7 special edition cars inspired by Breitling's flying team

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Bentley Speed 8We've all pretended to be a fighter pilot while driving at least once.

Bentley is making that dream a little more realistic, for the lucky seven who can afford it.

Unfortunately, Bentley isn't building a personal jet. But, the luxury carmaker is partnering with the Breitling Jet Team to build seven, unique and individually numbered versions of its Continental GT Speed.

Each one will mimic the look and feel of a fighter jet, all while still having four wheels. 

SEE ALSO: Bentley decorated a hotel suite in Istanbul – and you can stay in it for $5,345 a night

Each of the 7 cars corresponds to a jet from the Breitling Jet Team. Here, they mimic a formation practiced by the world famous acrobatic flying team.



The cars may not reach 565 miles per hour like their Czech jet counterparts, they're still plenty impressive.



A standard Bentley Continental GT Speed features a V12 engine capable of 626 horsepower. The special edition cars will have the same powerful engine.



See the rest of the story at Business Insider

This $105 watch knocked everything else off my wrist

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Aulta Leeway 2

I have a small collection of watches, and I like to switch up my timepiece on a near daily basis. But every once in a while, I enjoy wearing a watch so much that it becomes a go-to choice.

I was recently introduced to Aulta and their sporty watches, which are designed to appeal to people who are into a surfing lifestyle but don't want to spend all their time on a beach, chasing waves. They have jobs, commitments, and are interested in a watch that can go from surfboard to boardroom.

That's the pitch, anyway. Aulta was started by three guys with surfing in their backgrounds. Abe Allouche created a surfwear brand called Island Daze. Marty Pomphrey worked for Nike and later Fossil, the big fashion-watch brand. Pancho Sullivan was a pro surfer.

The trio is currently selling a lineup of two watches, with a variety of face and band options. The Seaward is a simple timepiece with an easy-to-read face and a day-date function. It sells for $95, is a fairly large watch at 42 millimeters, and is powered by a workhorse Japanese quartz movement. It's sufficiently water resistant for surfing.

It's a nice-looking watch, but it was superseded by the Leeway chronograph, the watch I tested. The Leeway is also a big watch at 42 mm, and it's powered by a chrono version of the same Japanese movement that drives the Seaward. The design is very clean, with sticks in lieu of numerals, a pair of subdials, and a tenth-of-seconds enclosed bezel. There's a single date window at the 6 o'clock position. The watch I tried had a black face, silver hands, a red seconds hand and red hands on the subdials. It has a bit of lume, but it's not very powerful and so the Leeway really can't be considered any kind of serious dive watch.

Overall, the design evokes the famous Heuer Carrera chronos of the 1950s and '60s. It's hard to go wrong borrowing a layout from these watches, which were created by the legendary Jack Heuer and intended to be used for timing motorsports. They're famous for their legibility.

Heuer Carrera

The Leeway is $105 and can be ordered with a variety of straps but no bracelet. (For that, you'll have to go with the Seaward.) 

It doesn't feel like a $105 watch, however. My tester came with a black rubber strap that's comfortable for all-day wear. The watch takes up a lot of territory on the wrist and is substantial, but it doesn't feel heavy. The subdued styling pairs up well with everything from a business suit to — naturally — a swimsuit. I can't vouch for the absolute water-tightness of the timepieces, but the screw-down crown is solid. The chrono pushers are crisp and the timing action is great. The quartz movement kept impeccable time.

As watches go, the Leeway is comparable with a wide variety of Japanese quartzes that go for anywhere from $100 to $400. It doesn't quite have the upscale craftsmanship of some of the entry-level Swiss quartzes, but it doesn't really come off as a "fashion" watch, either. And the good looks elevate it above the status of a "beater" watch. Aulta has said that by selling its watches only online, it can pass on savings to consumers, effectively making a $200 watch into a $100 watch.

Aulta Founders

Over the month or so that I tested the Leeway, I looked at it first when it came time to choose the day's timepiece. Interestingly, this made me consider my other watches more carefully, pondering why I liked the Leeway so much. Ultimately, the price wasn't a huge factor — Who wouldn't like a really great watch at a really great price? — but I'm impressed that the Aulta guys could do what they've done for around $100. Ultimately, it was a fun watch to wear, versatile, and not too attention-getting, apart from the size.

If you aren't obsessed with "status" watches or a collector of fine timepieces, the Leeway makes for a good everyday watch. The Aulta team is stressing the surf-lifestyle tie-in, but that's really not a dominant component in the watch's presentation. If there are any drawbacks, it's this this is a shiny watch that looks terrific new, but might not age particularly well. The wearer will have to wait and see on that one. And this isn't a watch that's going to impress serious watch people. But by the same token, it's sharp enough that they might want to play around with it for a few minutes.

Sure, for a few hundred more, you can get a much nicer chrono, with more intricate detailing and a better band or strap. For a few hundred more, you can get a watch with a more stupendous reputation. And a watch this big isn't for everybody.

But the bottom line is that this is a watch at a very nice price that achieves what it set out to do: be a timepiece that you can wear to do pretty much anything, 24/7. It will be worth keeping an eye on Aulta to see what they do with their next few designs.

SEE ALSO: If you're going to do the colorful watch-strap thing this summer, this is the way to rock it

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NOW WATCH: 7 outdated fashion rules that men can now ignore

The Rolex Explorer II is still the best watch for traveling around the world

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rolex explorer ii 07The Rolex Explorer II, reference 216570, along with the Submariner, GMT Master, and the Datejust, constitute Rolex's most popular watches.

While the Explorer model, like the others, is a child of the late 1950s; unlike the others, it has two current models, both popular, but also quite different.

The first model, the Rolex Explorer, is 39mm and is closest to the original version, while the Explorer II is 42mm and more adapted to modern tastes.

In this post, I review the latter model.

And while any of the Rolex Explorer models make for a solid tool watch, in this review, I am not taking it to some mountain trekking odyssey, but instead I am doing modern day exploration.

My account is based on taking it for a month long journey to Asia, exploring a distant land, an ancient people, and a fascinating culture: China.

rolex explorer ii 15First off, the Rolex Explorer was one of the first wristwatches to be designed for exploration, in particular, exploring new lands and varied terrains. While today, a Casio ProTrek or similar solar-powered multifunction watch will serve you well on a distant trek, in the 1950s and early 1960s when real exploration of the poles and the high peaks of the world was taking place, no quartz watch existed. And even today, if you were to attempt to explore the earth's pole or climb Mt. Everest, the Rolex Explorer might still be a better choice than a quartz device, since these suffer when exposed to high and low temperatures and depend on an external source of power. However, the Rolex Explorer II is guaranteed to work as well as it does day to day even under extreme temperature gradients and with no source of power, except wearing it daily and moving a bit (or winding the crown).

rolex explorer ii 12

So while in my own “expedition” with the Rolex Explorer II, I was not taking it to extreme conditions, I did take it to what is a somewhat typical modern day traveling journey, including airports, business meetings, business outings, the gym, and also visiting the outdoors in a distant land. In all cases, what was great was the Rolex Explorer II never felt out of place.

rolex explorer ii 13

At the airport, the first step was to set the local and home time to PDT. As the plane took off and we got an indication of the time in Beijing, using the quick set feature on the hour hand, I simply pulled the crown and moved it forward about 8 timezones for the time in China. Interestingly, unlike many large countries, China has one timezone! It does not matter if you are in the east or western part of China, there is just one. Makes it easy for doing business, I suppose, though I imagine Chinese get a very different experience of time over the year depending on what side of the country they live on.

rolex explorer ii 14

A great thing about Rolex sports watches, especially modern versions, is that they tend to be multipurpose. That is, they fit well into both business and casual situations as well as the more sporty settings for which they were specifically designed. So during my month long visit, and with various meetings at all levels of the organization, I never had to use any other watch, really. The Rolex Explorer II fit in great.

rolex explorer ii 11

Its imposing 42mm all-brushed stainless steel case (water resistant to 100 meters) could be a minor issue if you needed to button up for a formal event, as it sits 12mm high on the wrist. However, that was never the case for me, and it fit great under all of my shirts, even when wearing a sports jacket in the cold grey late winter evenings of Beijing.

rolex explorer ii 04

Besides casual usages while visiting the vast city of Beijing, the occasion I had which most suited the Rolex Explorer II’s origin was when I took a half day trip to the Great Wall of China. First off, the Great Wall is nothing short of extraordinary, spanning miles and miles. The people of this great land constructed a 20-foot wide wall that serpentines the high mountains of northern China, helping separate it from centuries of Mongol invasions. It is commonly considered as one of the seven wonders of the world and for long the only man-made structure visible from outer space.

rolex explorer ii 05

Getting to the section of the Great Wall our visit meant taking a roller coaster-like small car that took us hundreds of feet into the mountain and into the Wall proper. Of course, once there, comes the fun part. Depending on your fitness level and the time before dawn, you can easily walk and climb this amazing structure for miles and miles. I challenged myself to at least get to four towers, which round trip would be about a hilly 10k. Heck, I had just completed a full Ironman less than a year ago, how bad could this be?

rolex explorer ii 06

Of course, the Rolex Explorer II was never the issue during my Wall trek, but rather my knees and my feet walking and climbing this amazing structure. Of course, I was also carrying my DSLR camera and made sure to stop, take a breathe, and take some pictures of the vast landscape. The weather was clear, so the view went on for miles. The white face of the Rolex Explorer II was never out of place. And I was very happy to use the 5mm easy link extension to relieve my wrist after a hard day hiking under the sun.

rolex explorer ii 01rolex explorer ii 16Like many of the modern Rolex sports watches, the Rolex Explorer II comes with the modern Oyster bracelet fully brushed (just like the Submariner), and it is just plain comfortable and screams high quality. The Rolex bracelets are, just like any genuinely well engineered bracelet, adjustable with screws where one can remove full links or half links. Also, the bracelet tapers from 21mm at the lugs to 17mm at the oyster clasp, thereby resulting in a highly wearable 42mm watch. The clasp includes the protective Rolex Oyster lock, but unlike the Submariner, there are no quick adjustments except for the 5mm oyster link which I mentioned makes it easy to extend or reduce the bracelet by 5mm during the day as your wrist expands and contracts.

rolex explorer ii 02

The Rolex Explorer II comes fitted with the Rolex 3187 caliber which I found to be super accurate (as it is COSC chronometer certified, like all Rolex calibers) and easy to use. It also contains Rolex’s Paraflex system which helps improve the watch’s resistance to shocks, as well as the brand's Parachrom anti-magnetic hairspring so as to render the movement more resistant to magnetic fields. The quick hour adjust works like a charm, and the date can be advanced forward using this feature. The large orange GMT hand is easily visible and points brilliantly to the black 24-hour markers on the bezel.

rolex explorer ii 17

The Rolex "Mercedes" hour hand (originally designed to appear totally different to the minute hand for easy legibility) and the minutes hand are larger, bolder than their counterparts on the Submariner or GMT Master II. Also, here they are outlined in black paint and filled with blue Chromalight, whereas on other Rolex models, they tend to be done in 18k white gold. The look is pretty unique to the Rolex Explorer II in Rolex’s line up and has acquired the moniker of "maxi-hands" from collectors. The rest of the dial is in the iconic white “polar” color with cardinal markers and hour markers (round), also with a black painted outline, completing the unique – and uniquely legible – maxi-dial.

rolex explorer ii 18rolex explorer ii 03

While clearly remaining a Rolex with the classic oyster case, the cyclops on the crystal, and the famous Rolex dial, this model is less common than the Submariner and GMT Master II, easily making it the more interesting Rolex if you want a solid sports watch from the famous brand – and hence it is one that you will more rarely see anyone else wearing during the day. As a matter of fact, during my entire time traveling to China, I only spotted one other person wearing a Rolex Explorer II (black dial), though I spotted countless other Rolex sports watches.

rolex explorer ii 10rolex explorer ii 21

So while the Rolex Explorer II 216570 is not necessarily my absolute favorite Rolex stainless steel sports watch, its imposing size, easy wearability, and lack of popularity make it one that I often go to when I need a modern multi-purpose watch that I can wear for business, casual, or for sporty occasions – and yet that is not a common one. For this exact reason, the Rolex Explorer II was a great companion for my travels, exploring the great land of China and earned a special place in my permanent collection. Price for the Rolex Explorer II 216570 is $8,100rolex.com

Necessary Data

  • Brand: Rolex
  • Model: Explorer II reference 216570
  • Price: $8,100
  • Size: 42mm wide (45mm with crown) and 12.5mm high and 49mm lug to lug
  • Weight: 150g with a few links removed to fit my 6.25-inch wrist
  • Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
  • Friend we'd recommend it to first: Anyone who is looking to buy his first Rolex but hates the fact that the brand is so popular and commonly seen.
  • Worst characteristic of watch: There is really not much wrong with this watch. If I had to nit pick, I’d say that the maxi-hands can appear to be too large, however, it grew on me quickly and is now one of my favorite characteristics of the watch.
  • Best characteristic of watch: The dial: iconic, legible, and visible from far. 

SEE ALSO: Here's why the Oyster Perpetual is a fantastic starter Rolex

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NOW WATCH: Take a tour of the $367 million jet that will soon be called Air Force One

We tried Eleven James — the 'Netflix of luxury watches'

Bubba Watson's most expensive piece of equipment at the British Open is a $825,000 watch

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Bubba Watson's Richard Mille Watch

Bubba Watson's most expensive piece of equipment at the British Open costs more than three-quarters of a million dollars, and all it can do is tell him how hard he is swinging and whether or not he will make his tee time.

In 2014 Richard Mille introduced a new $825,000 RM 38-01, a mechanical tourbillon watch with a titanium case designed just for Watson. Only 50 were made.

Beyond the light weight and style Richard Mille watches are known for, the most striking feature of the 38-01 is a g-sensor on the face that's capable of measuring the g-force of Watson's swing up to 20 Gs.

It also comes in Watson's favorite color, green, matching the green jacket he won at the Masters.

Richard Mille Watch

This is actually the third watch designed for Watson by Richard Mille. Watson has been wearing the watches in tournaments since 2011.

He was even wearing a previous model when he won the Masters in 2012.

Bubba Watson

And he was wearing what looks like the same model Richard Mille watch during Tuesday's press conference at the Open Championship to be played at St. Andrews.

Bubba Watson

The high-end Richard Mille watches are no strangers to the world of professional sports.

Rafael Nadal has worn Richard Mille watches since 2010, even while playing. His latest model is the RM27-02 which has a retail price of $775,000.

Rafael Nadal Richard Mille watch

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NOW WATCH: A famous surfer is trying to revolutionize the sport of golf with a new gadget


The best men's watches at every price point

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Rolex Submariner

My first watch was a two-tone Seiko with a quartz movement, a mineral crystal face and a solid link stainless steel bracelet– and I loved it, not only for its crisp silver case with the gold bezel, the dark matte grey dial with the day/date window, but because it symbolized a coming of age for me.

I wasn’t wearing a digital watch or even a plastic camp watch anymore. It was real metal and it made me feel grown up.

I wore it every day and then later passed it on to a good friend who was just getting into watches.

My next watch was an Oris TT1 Chronograph, a beast of a watch — and it was a Swiss automatic. My very first. It was another major milestone for me after getting a coveted job in the telecommunications industry. My next watch was easily a few notches up, an Omega Seamaster Professional Automatic that I’d fallen in love with in a magazine with Pierce Brosnan sporting it as the next 007.

That was twenty years ago, and I still have it.

Then came a stunning Omega Railmaster Automatic Co-Axial from my wife on our wedding day. What the next watch will be remains a mystery, but I have my eye on an IWC Pilot Chronograph. Maybe for my 50th birthday.

That may not be your path along the progression of timepieces in your life, but it’s almost inevitable that if you’re serious about wristwatches, you’ll find yourself upgrading every so often because your watch sensibilities change and grow as you get older and as you get wiser about what watch brands have to offer.

We’ve selected the progression of timepieces, explaining why each brand commands a certain price point. And we provide fine examples in each brand, from the bottom tier all the way to the top.

SEE ALSO: 10 affordable watches that even watch snobs will appreciate

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Timex $25+

Timex had always been about value, rather than aesthetics — at least until recently. Timex really made its wristwatch presence known in the 1980s and has never looked back, improving its reputation with hypersuccessful lines like Ironman, Expedition and Intelligent Quartz.

What’s great about Timex as a starter watch is that you don’t have to invest much, with classics like their Camper Watch and Weekender costing well under $50 and even higher end pieces like the Intelligent Quartz Flyback Chronograph for less than $200. Both watches have a handsome design and won’t steer you wrong when you’re just starting out as a budding watch lover.

Timex Weekender, $31



Seiko $50+

If there’s one brand that captures value, reliability and longevity, it’s certainly Japanese watch powerhouse, Seiko. They literally have hundreds of styles including sport, casual, dress, and diving watches.

Though the casual observer might think Seiko watches are cheap due to their Japanese origin, they’re one of the most beloved brands in the industry due to quality, reliability and extreme value. Every watch guy should own at least one Seiko in his lifetime, preferably one of their spectacular automatic divers.

Seiko Diver, $180



Invicta $75+

Okay, so Invicta makes way too many different kinds of watches, with designs and pricing that can often be confusing to the uninitiated. Plus, they plug their wares on the Home Shopping Network like over-eager peddlers at a flea market. But in their massive selection, there are gems worth paying for.

In fact, it’s easy to get a sub-$200 timepiece with a Japanese automatic movement and sapphire crystal. That’s a real bargain, given that you get features that show up on watches costing twice the price or more. The conservative dive watch styles are derivative from their far more expensive Swiss counterparts, but in models like the Pro Diver Automatic and the Ocean Ghost II, no one will fault you for your taste. It’s a solid upgrade over sub $100 models from brands like Timex and Casio. Just stay with their simpler styles, and you won’t go wrong.

Invicta Diver, $78



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NOW WATCH: Here's the most important trend that's changing the way big brands interact with you

This is the watch every guy needs for summer — and it's only $30

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Z 2You wear the same black or brown leather watch every day for work.

But, you look kind of ridiculous wearing it at the beach or a barbecue over the weekend in the summer. 

Timex's Weekender collection has tons of cool canvas options to choose from — blue and white stripes, gray and orange stripes, solid army green, and more. They're also designed with slip-through straps, so you can buy additional straps and alternate them based on your weekend agenda. 

Canvas watches aren't as dressy as leather, so they'll look great with gingham shirts and chinos at weekend barbecues. They'll also make your blazers and slacks feel less stuffy on casual Fridays. 

Versatility, undeniable good looks, and a 30-meter water resistance aside, it's the price that will ultimately sell you on the Weekender. For less than $50, you can buy a watch and two extra straps for it

Timex Weekender Slip-Through Strap Watch in Olive, $28.95, available at Amazon. 

Timex Weekender Slip-Through Strap Watch in Blue and Gray, $29.98, available at Amazon. 

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READ THIS: You'll never have to worry about remembering your phone charger again with this keychain

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There's a new minimalist watch brand you should know about

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The Insider Picks team writes about stuff we think you'll like. Business Insider has affiliate partnerships so we may get a share of the revenue from your purchase.

row_angle_webThere's a certain level of pickiness that should be employed when you're shopping for items, like watches and wallets.

If you end up purchasing one you're not completely on-board with, chances are you'll end up using the old worn-out version you were trying to replace in the first place. 

If the one you're on the fence about is affordable, however, you may want to take a leap of faith and give it a test run — you'll never know what you don't like unless you try it, and you can only be so picky. 

Take the reasonably priced watches pictured here, for example. 

Launch in Philadelphia in 2013, the Analog Watch Co. offers watch wearers an entirely unique aesthetic with its collection of minimalist wood watches. The beauty of the handcrafted timepieces lies in their all-natural wood and leather composition, which also happen to be eco-friendly. Their affordable price tag — they're selling for a hair under $150 on Touch of Modern right now — makes them work a second look. 

If you're the rugged, outdoorsy type or you harbor a intense appreciation for clean, unfussy designs, the watches are spot-on.

They are available to shop with or without dials in four colors — teak and bamboo, silverheart and maple, leather and blackwood, and makore and red sanders. Each design comes with gold finishing, and is outfitted with a precise Japanese quartz movement. They're all also exceedingly lightweight and tailored for all-day comfort. 

All in all, the timepieces appear to be a perfect marriage of function and form, and one heck of a conversation starter. 

Analog Watch Co. Wood Watches, $149.99, available at Analog Watch Co.

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SEE ALSO: This article of clothing makes men look instantly more put together in the summer

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Forget the Apple Watch — this timepiece will change everything

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swatchApple’s design mastermind Jony Ive spoke in no uncertain terms when he described what the Apple Watch would mean for Switzerland: The old watch companies, he said, were doomed. (Actually, he used a more colorful term.)

Bravado aside, Ive has a point.

The Swiss watch industry has to be concerned about what a computer on the wrist means for its business. Even if it doesn’t spell the end for the luxury watch, Ive’s product makes it clear that we’re living in a new era for the timepiece and there’s no going back.

But there’s another new product on the market that could change how the Swiss watch industry operates, even more so than Apple can. It’s less glitzy than the Apple Watch, but this product has the potential to set off a quiet revolution. The device isn’t a cutting-edge piece of smart technology, or even a super-expensive luxury accessory: It’s a Swatch.

Last year, Swatch released a new model called Sistem51.

Unlike most of the watches in the affordable Swiss watch company’s line, the Sistem51 is mechanical: Rather than using a battery, as in a quartz watch, it stores energy by using the motion of your wrist to wind it. Unlike any other Swiss mechanical, the Sistem51 is built entirely on a 65-foot-long automated assembly line, without any human intervention.

Maybe most significantly, the Sistem51 costs just $150—a shockingly low price point for a mechanical watch that is 100 percent Swiss made. A decent Swiss mechanical with a reliable timekeeping mechanism inside it starts north of $500 (usually closer to $1,000), and prices quickly rise from there: an automatic TAG Heuer will run you over $2,000, a Rolex starts at about $5,000, and the high luxury watches—the likes of Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, or Vacheron Constantin—run up into five and six digits.

For all these reasons, Swatch’s new affordable mechanical is getting a lot more attention in the watch world than a Swatch normally would. Aficionados who usually focus on prestige brands have referred to it as “clearly one of the most important new watches of the last 10 years.”

When Hodinkee, a blog with a strong following among young collectors, first got its hands on the new watch, the reviewer spoke in hushed tones to his readers: “Seriously guys, this could be a game-changer.”

At its launch, Swatch described Sistem51 as “a provocation” to the industry at large. The notion of an affordable mechanical watch is a serious change for Swiss luxury watch companies, which generally operate in a bubble of escalating prices and high-end consumers willing to pay top dollar for the latest models.

shopping, looking, swatch, window shop, browsing

But it’s not merely a provocation.

Swatch is deeply committed to its new project. So far in 2015 it has added eight new models to its original four designs, doubling down on the initiative by offering dial designs that will likely appeal to a wider range of consumers. The second-generation dials and cases are more conservative than the four originals.

Swatch has never shied away from loud, colorful styles, but here it’s playing to more traditional consumers. The company seems to want this watch to reach well beyond the normal Swatch buyers. It intends to make the Sistem51 not just a statement, but a staple.

For an industry that prizes tradition and consistency over change, the Sistem51’s technology really is revolutionary.

The watch gets its name from the fact that it has only 51 components; a typical mechanical watch has more than 100, sometimes well past 300. It’s manufactured using clean-room conditions, so nothing can disturb its inner workings (known as the “movement”).

While a normal mechanical watch requires a complicated process of fine adjustment by hand to make sure its timekeeping element (called the “escapement”) oscillates evenly, that’s all automated on the Sistem51: a laser regulates the escapement just once and then the watch gets closed up. It’s then hermetically sealed, meaning there are no after-sales repairs.

To some that might be a downside, as the watch can’t be fine-tuned over time for a longer life. Swatch would only tell me that the Sistem51 is expected to have a lifespan of “several years”—you’re not buying an heirloom.

But the longevity is helped by an innovative movement construction. The Sistem51 uses a sectional design, with five modules that contain the main working parts of the movement all held together by a single screw. (More standard mechanical movements have about 30 screws.) The one-screw structure means less friction between moving parts and less lubrication—two things that significantly affect the lifespan of a mechanical watch.

Once it’s been all cased up on the assembly line, the Sistem51 can run for 90 hours on a single winding; typical mechanical watches have a 40-hour power reserve. For all the innovations in the watch’s design, Swatch applied for 17 new patents.

But hey, a watch is a watch, you might say. How could yet another mechanical one really be as innovative as Apple’s new wearable computer?

apple watch

To understand how transformative the Sistem51 could be, you need to appreciate what Swatch means to the watch world. If you grew up thinking of Swatch as a fun, brightly colored accessory sold in mall kiosks and airports, you’re only getting half the picture. In many ways, Swatch is the only reason that Switzerland is still making watches, and turning profits, today.

The Swatch was developed in the early 1980s, at a moment of existential crisis in the famed Swiss watch industry.

Switzerland had been recognized for hundreds of years as a major producer of high-quality watches, clocks, and sophisticated mechanisms, but by the 1970s it was falling behind. Companies in the U.S., China, and Japan had found faster ways to mass-produce cheap watches that still had the basic functionality of Swiss ones. Even as Swiss engineers continued to develop new models and improve the engineering, their sophisticated timepieces couldn’t keep up.

The nail in the coffin was the introduction of the quartz watch.

The first publicly available quartz wristwatch was the Astron, launched by the Japanese brand Seiko in 1969. If accuracy was the whole point of a watch, quartz obliterated mechanical: Even today, the most accurate mechanical watches keep time via a spiral-shaped spring that oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour; modern quartz watches use a small crystal that vibrates 32,678 times per second.

The Astron initially cost about $1,250, making it almost the price of a small car, but the cost of quartz technology quickly dropped, and soon everyone was opting for mass-marketed quartz instead of outmoded Swiss mechanicals.

Switzerland quickly felt the effects of the technological paradigm shift: A generations-old economy crumbled in just a few short years. By 1983, the number of Swiss watch companies had dropped from 1,600 to about 600; an industry that once employed 90,000 now employed 34,000.

swatch apple

The way that Switzerland survived the so-called quartz crisis was to reframe what it means to own a Swiss watch.

If just about anything could tell excellent time now, then the choice to buy a Swiss watch had to be an emotional decision, not a functional one. The branding of Switzerland as the essence of precision craftsmanship became more important than ever before, even if the result of that craftsmanship was a watch that didn’t keep time as well as a Japanese quartz.

You would wear a Swiss watch if it spoke to you, if it represented who you were to the world. What had always been a utilitarian product had to become an emblem. By wearing a Swiss watch you weren’t just keeping track of the time: You were buying into a culture of mechanical artistry and an age-old tradition of refinement. Wearing Swiss turned into a matter of taste, a sign of cultural capital, and, frequently, a display of actual capital, too. 

The man behind this reframing was a Swiss-Lebanese management consultant named Nicolas G. Hayek.

Although he had no prior experience in the watch industry, Hayek was hired to rescue two failing Swiss watch conglomerates in the early 1980s. Along with turning the businesses around and forming them into one group (which he would ultimately become the head of), Hayek separated the company’s movement engineering business from its brands, allowing the brands to focus on the design and marketing of their products as emblems of Swiss quality.

This move shaped the industry profoundly for decades, but it may be less significant than his other bold stroke. Around the same time, Hayek obtained funding for a small, kooky side project. What if there was a quartz watch that was cheap and easy to produce, still had the cachet of being Swiss made, and was marketed as a fun accessory at a low price?

It wouldn’t be your main watch; maybe you’d have a few of them, to wear in different situations, or just for a season, or even two at a time. (The name Swatch was a contraction of “second watch.”) Although the idea of a watch as fashion accessory seems beyond obvious today, it was still very much a novelty in the Swiss market at the time.

Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek wears the new 'Swatch Touch Zero One' during the Swiss watchmaker's annual news conference in Corgemont March 12, 2015. REUTERS/Denis Balibouse

The first Swatch watches came out in 1983 and were an immediate success.

They were produced on a fully automated assembly line and had only 51 components (a feature echoed by the Sistem51), whereas other quartz watches had close to 100. The watches cost 10 Swiss francs to produce and sold for 50 each. The company took off from there, producing one collection after another. The watches were good quality, affordable Swiss quartz pieces, but they were also marketed perfectly as fun, expressive, and eye-catching. They became a mass-market mainstay.

The effect on Switzerland’s watch industry was profound.

The success of Swatch showed that the Swiss could do something new and get everyone talking. The profits from Swatch breathed new life into the Swiss industry and helped to finance Hayek’s other brands.

Swatch also brought a broad new range of consumers into the fold, educating them about the “Swiss Made” label—which requires that a specific portion of a watch’s production be carried out in Switzerland—and providing an entry point into the market; eventually, some Swatch buyers would develop a taste for higher-value Swiss watches.

If people today are still wearing Omega, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet watches that cost tens of thousands of dollars, that’s thanks in no small part to a plastic quartz with a multicolored dial.

Hayek eventually recognized the contributions of his side project by naming his conglomerate the Swatch Group.

The company now owns 18 watch brands up and down the price spectrum and had gross sales of 9.219 billion Swiss francs ($9.6 billion) in 2014.

Besides its brands (including Omega, which generates the most revenue of any of the 18, and the ultra-high-end Breguet) it also owns ETA, the top supplier of mechanical and quartz movements for the whole Swiss watch industry.

So dominant is ETA’s hold on watch production in Switzerland that its clients even include the Swatch Group’s top competitors, like LVMH and the Richemont Group. (In fact, it’s thanks to ETA and Nivarox, another Swatch Group–owned supplier of components, that Swatch was able to perform the production and assembly of Sistem51 entirely in-house. No Swiss watch brand outside of the Swatch Group would have the infrastructure and know-how to make that happen at scale.)

Like the original Swatch watches, the Sistem51 is the kind of innovation that combines the allure of the new with comforting echoes of the past.

Like its forebears, it’s an affordable watch that’s built by machine. And like the originals, this Swatch arrives at a moment when the Swiss industry is under assault by new technology and foreign competition.

It’s too early to say whether Swatch can again rescue the Swiss industry, but its strategy seems sound. The Sistem51 isn’t just pouring old wine into new bottles: It’s a way to combat the increased interest in nonwatch wrist wear by reintroducing the Swiss mechanical timepiece to a wider base of consumers who couldn’t afford it before—and who might not be able to afford an Apple Watch either.

But the goal isn’t to compete with Apple’s technological prowess: It’s to generate enthusiasm for Swiss craftsmanship on a much wider base. As an entry-level brand, Swatch has always been about drawing in potential watch buyers and functioning as a gateway drug to the Swatch Group’s higher-value offerings.

Swatch SISTEM 51 Cream

Apple has been withholding sales data on its watch but the numbers seem to be dwindling.

Meanwhile, the Swatch Group’s half-year report earlier this month touted the Sistem51 as a “best seller,” responsible for “quintupled sales of its mechanical watches in the American market.”

Swatch is perfectly positioned to teach more people than ever before about the beauty and the achievement of the mechanical watch. If the brand can get it right, this new version of a centuries-old technology stands to save, once again, the watch as we know it.

Join the conversation about this story »

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5 tips on how to buy a quality watch

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Rolex

I learned a valuable lesson about buying watches from a shop in Hong Kong.

While on a business trip to China, I got pulled into a back room and was offered five luxury watches for a steal.

They were counterfeit luxury watches. They looked really nice and I was tempted by the brand names on the watches – Breitling, Louis Vuitton, Rolex. And against my better judgement, I violated all the sensible watch-buying rules ever written and paid $100 for each watch.

I have never worn those watches.

I wasted $500 that day – please learn from my mistakes in this article so you can make a smart buying decision when purchasing a watch.

You see, a quality watch isn’t just a tool that shows time. A man’s watch is a sign of taste, where you are in life, and it’s something that shouldn’t be “faked." And let me be clear, any man can buy a great watch at a very affordable price.

Whether you’re looking for accuracy of time, a fashion accessory, or something you want to leave your grandkids – here are my five tips that will help you purchase the right timepiece.

1. Educate yourself on classic watch styles

To make a sensible and practical wristwatch purchase – you have to go out there and learn more about watches. There is a whole industry built around horology– the science of making timepieces.

For centuries watchmakers have honed their craft to create complicated pieces of mechanism that are built to outlive the person wearing them.

Numerous websites and blogs offer the latest news on wristwatch designs. You can even browse through brand specific websites to see  what makes watches like Rolex, Breitling, Seiko, Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe tick. Lifestyle journals also offer advice on selecting timepieces of men, check The Gentleman’s Gazette, ABlogToWatch, and Art of Manliness.

Get excited about watches and you’ll then find the time to discover why so many men love them!

Get to know a local watchmaker or jeweler – they are storehouses of knowledge and are always willing to talk about different wristwatch options. The salesperson at your local watch store will be more than willing to recommend watches to suit your lifestyle.

Magazines like GQ and Esquire publish regular features on watches and advertise new and classic models.

If you prefer to use an app, check out Watchville.

2. Understand the true value of a watch

China luxury watchesOne of the first criteria that comes up in a watch purchase is price. However, it is more important to consider the value of a watch before discussing pricing.

A simple formula to assess the value of a watch:

(Frequency Of Use * The Feelings Associated With Wearing It)/ The Price Of The Watch

Price is not the most important thing. Although most of have a specific budget in mind, it is better to spend a little extra to buy a quality watch.

Remember the fake watches I bought in Hong Kong? They represent no value to me because I don’t wear them.

On the other hand, I now wear a brand in The Fifth Watches that, although less famous than many, feels and looks great on my wrist. Their watches are a well-made classic design, Bauhaus to be exact and work well with my personal style.

Although they have a short history I love The Fifth Watches story as an Australian family run business looking to disrupt the industry with fun watches that are affordable. I find I wear my new watch everyday – already I’ve gotten my money’s worth and the value is high. That’s what you want to strive for in any watch you purchase, wear it, love it, and reduce the cost per wear to pennies!

3. Watches & buyer protection

Be careful when purchasing watches online.

Check the reputation of both the dealer and company first. If they’re new, make sure they have testimonials and/or a strong social media presence where they are engaging with customers and following up with questions.

Make sure to find a manufacturer who is willing to ensure quality will exchange watches that have been damaged in shipping or have manufacturing defects.

You are also more likely to get standard issue warranties to cover repairs from certified dealers or when you buy from the manufacture themselves.

4. The economics of watch pricing

The different grades of watches vary in the craftsmanship, quality of materials used, and amount of labor involved.

Timepieces under $250 – Consumer Watches

These are considered fashion watches that you can purchase to wear with an outfit. You are not going to feel too bad if they break after a couple of years. Although watches in this category are not meant to be heirloom pieces, you can find some great deals here and a well made watch at this price point can last decades.

Under $1,000 – Brand & Enthusiast Watches

This is a good price range for men with disposable income looking to purchase their first statement quality watch.

Of all the ranges – this is the one that has the widest variety of quality levels and you can find deals or get ripped off. I advise you not buying your first watch at this price point as you’ll want to have tested a few at lower price points to ensure you’re going to get your money’s worth and enjoyment from a watch at this level.

Think of watches at this level as a gateway to the next price point!

$1,000 – $10,000 – Luxury Watches

This is the bracket of well known names. You get what you pay for here and once you start to spend this type of money you need to know more about watches than 99% of men or else you’re getting ripped off.

Luxury watches by definition, are exclusive items and signal to certain people your ability to afford them.

Over $10,000 – Ultra Luxury Watches

white gold 1981 Patek Philippe watchAt this level it’s not uncommon for diamonds, gold and other precious stones to be on the watch face.

Many of the of these watches are not available for public sale, and are controlled and only made available to select clientele. Most of these exclusive watches carry a rich heritage of exquisite craftsmanship and exceptional quality.

Watches as an investment?

All the more power to you if you can afford a 10K watch, but in general watches are not an investment. It is unlikely that you will retrieve the money spent on it when trying to sell under duress. It’s like buying a Harley Davidson motorcycle, it’s only worth what a buyer will pay for it.

5. Find enjoyment in wearing your watch

A good quality watch is an expression of your individualism. Only buy a watch that your are going to enjoy and love wearing.

Choose it yourself because it should reflect your personality. Unlike other items that men traditionally buy to express themselves, such as cars, a wristwatch is on constant display.

Watches are practical purchases that can be worn for decades. A fine wristwatch can signify a milestone or an achievement like graduating from college or getting your first job.

It stays on your hand as a reminder of what you have achieved.

Watches are not just a functional piece – you need to enjoy wearing it too.

SEE ALSO: The best men's watches at every price point

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This $38,000 watch-winder is a mesmerizing work of art that keeps automatic watches ticking

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Lumisidus 11

Automatic watches musn't be left unattended. 

Unlike a quartz watch (one that requires a battery), automatic mechanical watches are usually wound by the movement of the wrist. 

When not worn, the watches die and, as you're dreading resetting all of their complications, sit neglected.

Enter the Lumisidus 11 Watch Winder, which mimics the movement of the wrist and takes winders out of the dark ages and into the 21st century.

The unit keeps 11 automatic watches wound up and read for use, displaying them behind crystal and illuminating them with individual LED lights all the while. 

Made with 24 karat gold plating and complemented by a smartphone app, the device balances art and utility. But its beauty is more than skin-deep.

A Swiss-made motor rotates the cylindrical drum containing the watches in a mellow, mesmerizing way, keeping each watch ticking and its complications perfectly in order. 

LumiSidus GIF
The winder's motion is constant and automatically programmed; it even adjusts direction for watches that can only be wound in one direction.

The speed and frequency of the rotation can be adjusted via the app. The individual LED lights (and their changing colors) can also be controlled by the app.

LumiSidus GIF
The 24 carat gold version of the winder retails for $38,000, while a non-gold version sells for $22,000. For the beginner collector, a model housing three watches is available for $8,200.

SEE ALSO: 9 beautiful watches that will last a lot longer than the Apple Watch

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NOW WATCH: This drummer created a whole song by only using the sound of coins

A Wall Street guide to watches

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henry graves patek philippe

Bankers love watches. They love collecting watches. They love talking about watches. I’ve seen entire groups of analysts head to the nearest Rolex store the day their first bonus hits the account; the Submariner is the official Wall Street starter watch.

Granted, these are the same kids who regard their blue and green canvas bags as a status symbol and think their business cards will help them pick up girls.

I’ve also seen a colleague cut out a life-sized picture of a Patek Philippe he was contemplating and tape it on his wrist to “test drive it” - not exactly a smart thing to do right before bonus. Not long after, he quit for Morgan Stanley, where he fit right in.

Because there’s no sales tax in Hong Kong, I’ve had to carry at least one watch with me on every trip to New York or London for some colleague trying to save a few (thousand) bucks. We’d use the inter-office mail to ship the box and the receipt to avoid any problems with customs.

Our head of sales once brought back a 50th Anniversary edition Rolex Submariner (the one with the green bezel) as a favor for the head of European capital markets. As a joke, he gave him a replica he had picked up for $50 in some Kowloon street market. When the banker asked how much he owed him, the sales guy said, “I haven’t paid for it yet. Just cut a check directly to my watch guy. Make it out to The Fay Kwotch Company.”

Only after the gullible banker was made the laughing stock of the entire trading floor did he even realize the watch was a fake.

Watches matter, especially on Wall Street. Even if you don’t care about watches, it’s important to care about watches. It’s often the first thing someone will use to size you up. Just as it’s hard to like someone whose favorite movie sucks, I don’t think I could be friends with a guy wearing a matte black Hublot Big Bang.

I’ve seen them all and I’ve bought a few. So here are a few pointers to help you along.

Rolex SubmarinerRolex

It’s not a terrible place to start. Buy one when you graduate from college, assuming you aren’t one of the 22 million Millennials still living with your parents. That Tag Heuer you got for your 18th birthday does not belong in the workforce.

To some extent, wearing a Rolex is like driving a BMW 3-series. It says you've got a little bit of money, but nothing interesting to say. It’s a safe, entry-level choice. My starter watch was a Rolex Just Date. It was stolen when I was mugged leaving a bar 3am in London.

You can’t go wrong with a Submariner, GMT or Sea-Dweller. But, when it comes to Wall Street, the must-have Rolex is the stainless steel Daytona. And since there’s a waiting list, the real status symbol is paying retail for it.

Another Wall Street trick is to pick up a vintage Rolex at Christie’s or Bonhams. Make up a story about how your grandfather won it playing backgammon in Paris in 1952. Now your lineage is savvy and rich.

Hublot

If this isn’t a marketing case study, it should be. Born in 1980 with no provenance, Hublot put the ‘whore’ in horology. The brand spent the better part of three decades in obscurity, until Jean Claude Biver took the reins in 2004.

He brought in a new designer, increased the prices to shift the perception of the brand, and focused almost entirely on product placement and celebrity endorsements. As a result, turnover has grown more than ten-fold over the last decade. In other words, the world is full of idiots and Eurotrash bankers.

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari King Gold Carbon with an amazing and unique carbon bezel incrusted with gold! #redseason #HungarianGP @scuderiaferrari

A photo posted by Hublot (@hublot) on Jul 26, 2015 at 3:35am PDT on

 Panerai

Panerai was a mediocre Italian government-contract instrument maker until Rambo came along and made it cool, just as oversized watches were gaining in popularity. It’s an action hero watch for the guys who brag about cheating on their wives.

IWC

These are the thinking man’s watches, known for their understated style and renowned craftsmanship. These are for the guys who prefer New Balance over Nike and an Audi A8 over a Mercedes S-Class. This also means I probably rather hang out with my dentist than a guy with an IWC on.

This is the watch for the guy who gets cheated on by his wife.

The Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic radiates composure and an undiluted aesthetic. Discover more on IWC.com

A photo posted by IWC Schaffhausen (@iwcwatches) on Jul 7, 2015 at 5:22am PDT on

Audemars Piguet

Wearing one of these is like driving a G Wagon. Theoretically it’s awesome, but between Jay Z lyrics and the Kardashians, vulgarity has taken over. If your car made this list, maybe you can pull it off.

Richard Mille & Franc Muller 

These watches can be whimsical and fun, especially the Franc Mueller Secret Hour or Crazy Hour. But, if your job ever requires a uniform (a suit) and you don’t even report to the guy who reports to the CEO, you can’t have one.

These watches are best left to the RAVs (Russians, Arabs, and Villains).

patek Philippe Patek Philippe

You never actually own a Patek Phillippe. You merely look after it for your douchebag son. The advertisements are downright terrible, but a Patek Philippe is far and away the most coveted watch for a banker. Mort important, it’s also a great investment.

Just be careful. I waited two years for my Nautilus. A month later, it was stolen when I was mugged leaving a bar in Hong Kong at 3am.

Swatch

A Swatch used to be a cool way of saying “I don’t take myself very seriously.”

Then Lloyd Blankfein started wearing one.

Now, Swatches are for people who want other people to think they are unpretentious and confident. That’s as pretentious as the guys in the Hamptons driving old Wagoneers with a collection of boarding school and college lacrosse stickers on the back.

Just get a Blancpain (owned by Swatch). Not only is the Aqua Lung my favorite watch, it’s also Vladimir Putin’s.

blancpain aqua lung watchIt’s versatile, understated, and subtly masculine.

Apple Watch

STFU

Not wearing a watch is the new Patek…

Wearing a watch is more about conveying a message than it is about telling time.

More important than figuring out what message you want to send is deciding if you want to be seen sending out that message to begin with.

The power move is to have a few watches stuffed away at home, and then, rarely, if ever, wear one.

As my boss once said when a subordinate was showing off a new Rolex Yachtmaster, “I have one of those. I keep it on my yacht.”

Or as Mark Cuban said, “When you control time, you don’t need to know what time it is.”

John LeFevre is the creator of @GSElevator on Twitter, and the author of a new book and New York Times bestseller, Straight To Hell: True Tales of Deviance, Debauchery, And Billion-Dollar Deals

SEE ALSO: We asked the guy behind @GSElevator about deviance, debauchery, and what he'll tell his kids about banking

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Here's what Pebble's new watch 'Time Steel' looks like out of the box

El Chapo's sons had a revealingly flamboyant luxury-watch collection

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drug lord gold ak 47 drug money cartier cartel

In the old days, secrecy and discretion were the rule for Mexican drug lords.

Take Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán, for example. Known as “the world’s most powerful trafficker,” the 60-year-old only appears in a handful of pictures.

He does not need to cultivate his fame, especially since his latest MacGyver-style escape from a Mexican prison attracted a worldwide media coverage.

Things have started to change with the rise of social media and the rise of a new generation of narco-traffickers. This new breed of young drug barons loves to brag on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram, showing off their flashy lifestyles like soccer stars.

Drug dealing in Mexico has become public and ostentatious for two reasons.

First, drug cartels have become so powerful that they show absolutely no fear when confronting or being dismantled by the Mexican security forces.

Their organizations have infiltrated most, if not all levels of government. El Chapo’s recent flee, for instance, which is rumored to have been staged and used by the Mexican government as a way to let him go, shows the omnipotence of the Sinaloa drug cartel.

Second, in times of economic hardship, the flamboyant lives of drug barons are appealing to millions of young and poor Mexicans abandoned by the state, who failed to restore peace and security under the presidencies of Felipe Calderón and Enrique Peña Nieto.

On their social media profiles, the modern narcotraffickers post pictures of their planes, drugs, luxurious cars, ladies, gold-plated guns, posh houses and Swiss watches.

El ChapoTwenty-five years after Pablo Escobar and his gold Rolex, Swiss watches remain the most popular sign of wealth among the narcos in 2015. They appear to wear rare limited editions worth hundreds of thousand dollars as well as much more affordable models.

To better understand the reach of Swiss luxury brands among the Mexican drug lords, we analyzed the social-network profiles of three high ranking members of the Sinaloa cartel: Ivan and Alfredo Guzmán, two of the most influential sons of El Chapo Guzmán, and José Rodrigo Aréchiga-Gamboa, alias “El Chino Ántrax,” who was a rising star of the organisation — leader of the cartel’s violent gang named “Los Ántrax” – before his arrest in Netherlands at the request of the US authorities in late 2013.

Here is a top six of the favorite Swiss watches luxury brands appearing on their profiles — ranked by the number of models per brand and overall value.

Sources and background information are discussed below. Not all models were included because of issues with identification (bad quality of pictures, etc.) and for clarity.

1. Richard Mille

The small brand from Les Breuleux, in the Swiss Jura mountains, was founded in 1999 by French businessman Richard Mille. It wins the first place in our ranking with 5 appearances for a total of $1.2 million. (It is worth noting that Richard Mille made the headlines recently when Vladimir Putin’s spokesman Dmitry Peskov was photographed wearing a $620,000 model, raising questions about his wealth.)

The watches and their values in this image are, from left to right: Richard Mille RM 59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake limited edition (50 pieces), $710,000; Richard Mille RM 011 Rose Gold Felipe Massa Flyback Chronograph, $109,600; Richard Mille RM 055 Bubba Watson, $115,000; Richard Mille RM 011 Flyback Chronograph Black Phantom, $153,000:

Below, left: Richard Mille RM 055 Bubba Watson, $115,000. Right: Audemars Piguet (see section on this brand):

sinaloa cartel drug money loot watches

2. Hublot

Although it was created in the 1980s, Hublot only found its real success after Jean-Claude Biver took over the management section in 2003. Hublot is in second position with a total of five models valued at $607,200.

Below: Hublot King Power Miami 305 Limited Edition (10 pieces), $476,800:

hubolt sinalo cartel

sinaloa drug loot cartel

Below: Hublot Big Bang Steel Pavé 41 mm, 114 Diamonds, $23,600:

sinaloa watches hubolt loot

Hublot King Power Unico King Gold Pavé, $58,200:

hubolt sinaloa

Hublot Big Bang Gold Ceramic 44mm, $30,360 euros:

Hublot Big Bang Steel Diamonds 44mm, $18,700:

3. Rolex 

Rolex is among the most powerful brands in the world. It is the only Swiss label to have made it to the wrists of two generations of the world’s most notorious drug lords, from Pablo Escobar to the Guzmáns. 

With six watches, Rolex ranks before Hublot in terms of appearances, but their total value is well below, at only $130,200.

Below is a Rolex Oyster Day-Date 36mm Yellow Gold, $21,200:

Rolex GMT-Master II Oyster 40mm Steel and Yellow Gold 18 Carat, $12,400:

Left: Rolex Yacht Master II 44mm, $24,000. Right: Rolex GMT-Master II Oyster 40mm Steel and Yellow Gold 18 Carat, $12,400:

lobster rolex insane wealth super rich 1 percent % sinaloa

Left: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Steel and Yellow Gold, $16,000. Right: Rolex Sky-Dweller Oyster 42mm Yellow Gold 18 Carat, $44,000:

rolex sinaloa

4. Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875. Based in Le Brassus, in the Swiss Canton of Vaud, it is one of the oldest watch manufacturers still owned by its founding family. With only two appearances, Audemars Piguet is ranking in 4th position. The two watches' value is however pretty high, at $395,000.

These include:

– Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Carbone, $339,400 (refer to the image in Richard Mille’s section).

– Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 18 Carat Pink Gold, $554,600:

5. Urwerk 

This is a surprise appearance in our ranking: Urwerk is a “niche” watchmaker founded in 1995 in Geneva. It is producing between 100 and 150 pieces per year.

Marion Baudino, a spokesperson for Urwerk, was excited to learn that one of the brand's models was worn by one of El Chapo’s sons: “Ivan Guzmán is presenting a side of his personality. By showing his taste for nice cars and nice watches, he is trying to define himself in front of his thousands of followers on the social networks. By wearing an Urwerk, Ivan Guzman is raising his credibility. We have an online club for our clients, but he did not register.” 

Below: An Urwerk UR-210 RG, worth between $109,600 and $164,000:

6. Romain Jerome

Romain Jerome is a new name among Swiss luxury watchmakers, but the model on El Chino’s wrist dates from several years back.

Below is a Romain Jerome Titanic Chrono Red Gold Limited Edition (2012 pieces), worth $35,800.

grey parrot romain jerome watch luxury sinaloa

Sources and background information

Our conclusions stem from the analysis of different social-media accounts belonging first to the ex-leader of the armed wing of the Sinaloa cartel named “Los Ántrax,” José Rodrigo Aréchiga Gamboa (35 years old), who is also known as “El Chino Ántrax.” He was arrested as part of the DEA Operation Narco Polo as he disembarked from KLM Flight 686 Mexico City- Amsterdam at the Schiphol Airport in December 2013. 

He was caught using the fake identity of Norberto Sicairos-Garcia. His capture notably brought the DEA, Interpol and other security agencies closer to their primary objective in the year 2014: arrest El Chapo. It also led to the death of his supposed girlfriend, Yuriana Castillo Torres, who was abducted and then found dead on the street in Culiacán, in Sinaloa, Mexico. Extradited to the US and indicted on charges of importing marijuana and cocaine into the US, “El Chino” pled guilty last May.

We also looked at the profiles of two sons of “El Chapo,” Iván Archivaldo Guzmán-Salazar (32 years old) also known as “El Chapito” and Jesús Alfredo Guzmán-Salazar (29 years old) also known as “El Gordo” (“the Fat One”). Both have been indicted in the US.

 These were not random choices. The two sons of El Chapo and El Chino have thousands of admirers. Here is a list of their accounts (we could not verify their authenticity) with the number of followers or likes in parentheses:

  • José Rodrigo Aréchiga-Gamboa“El Chino Ántrax” (135 000 admirers in total):

https://instagram.com/miauuuu5_7/ (58 000)
https://twitter.com/comandante57 (39 000)
https://twitter.com/Miauuu5_7 (1 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CHINO-Antrax/1580417675517056?fref=ts (13 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chino-antrax/1423206714617137?fref=ts (10 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chino-Antrax/1488585071414812?fref=ts (8 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Chino-antrax/647502882031840?fref=ts (6 000)

  • Iván Archivaldo Guzmán-Salazar, “El Chapito”(325 000 followers in total):

https://twitter.com/lvanArchivaIdo (192 000)
https://twitter.com/_IvanGuzman (88 000)
https://twitter.com/Ivan_Guzman (21 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ivan-Archivaldo-Guzman/1579988752275513?fref=ts (18 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ivan-Archivaldo-Guzman/503433706472751?fref=ts (5 000)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Iv%C3%A1n-Guzm%C3%A1n/119074448433670?fref=ts (1 000)

  • Jesús Alfredo Guzmán-Salazar, “El Gordo” (330 000 fans in total):

https://twitter.com/_alfredoguzman (192 000)
https://twitter.com/AlfreditoGuzma/media (138 000)

SEE ALSO: How Mexican officials worked alongside the world's most powerful drug lord

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This $150 watch is terrifying for Apple and luxury companies

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sistem51 watch swatch

Watch out, Apple — a cheaper competitor is coming for you.

Sales of the Apple Watch have been disappointing amid criticism that it's uncomfortable, difficult to read, and too complicated to use.

And on top of that, it's really expensive.

The classic version starts at $549. There's the cheaper Sport version that is $349 to $399, and the very high-priced Edition version that can cost you between $10,000 and $12,000.

This costly product is a tough sell for millennials, who are already strapped for cash.

But now, Slate reports Swatch's Sistem51 could potentially challenge Apple, as it wins in the price department at a low $150. Slate enthusiastically proclaimed that this watch will "change everything."

The 100% Swiss-made watch never runs out of battery and is powered by the movement of the person wearing it.

This watch earns its status because it's the opposite of the Apple Watch: It's simple, and yet innovative. It's an automatic watch, and it isn't pretentious.

Business Insider's Matthew DeBord called it "the coolest $150 watch in the world" and hailed the watch for "reducing the number of parts in the movement to 51, about half of what a typical automatic watch requires."

Additionally, watch blogs, such as Hodinkee, have been singing the Sistem51's praises.

The low cost could truly make it more appealing to those who were halting on spending money on big-ticket purchases, like the Apple Watch — or even a fashion watch.

The combination of price, simplicity, and convenience make it an appealing choice for young consumers.

Further, millennials are spending the majority of their money on items such as technology versus apparel and accessories.

Apple WatchWatches could fall somewhere in between tech and apparel, but a YouGov survey found that 60% of 16- to 34-year-olds didn't think watches were necessary in the age of smartphones.

This makes it unlikely they would shell out hundreds of dollars for the Apple Watch.

The Apple Watch also faces a problem that analog watches do not: battery life.

The Sistem51 runs for 90 hours, while regular mechanical watches last about 40. The Apple Watch, with an 18-hour battery life, requires a nightly charging.

While tech enthusiasts might still find the allure in the Apple Watch, regular consumers might find solace in this watch's simplicity.

And with a reasonable price tag, you won't have to think too hard about shelling out for it.

SEE ALSO: I have 3 major problems with the Apple Watch

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10 of the best watches to own, according to an expert collector

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Ariel Adams Top 10 Recommended WatchesWatches I recommend for anyone to own? That sounds a bit presumptuous, right?

Well, it is, but hear me out.

In what might end up being a new series of articles here on aBlogtoWatch, I'd like to share with our audience the timepieces that we as individual watch lovers and experts would recommend to any new or veteran collector.

In fact, I would go so far as to say that no watch collection is truly complete without including most or all of these models. But let's face it, is any collection of anything ever really complete? Let's hope not.

People ask me all the time what watches they should buy at all types of price points. This list of watches is meant to offer something for everyone, but at the same time, there is no watch on here — no matter how inexpensive or luxurious — that one collector cannot enjoy at the same time in the same collection.

This list is also subjective and reflects my personal opinions. If you disagree, that's cool — it only means we have different tastes. All I can offer people is the accumulation of my experience and education in watches to help recommend what I think are some of the most important types of watches around. You might even see some of these same groupings in other watch lists here on aBlogtoWatch. The "Top 10 Living Legend Watches To Own" article is one that comes to mind.

With that said, while you might have your own list of watches that are "must haves" for anyone, you really can't disagree with my list of 10 watches because I am presenting my personal opinion (and I'm not lying), and this is what I recommend. I do, however, really want to hear about your own list in the comments below and am curious to see what watches show up on list after list. By the way, there are plenty of amazing watches that I love and would easily recommend that aren't on this list. Timepieces that don't make the list are simply ones that I wouldn't recommend as universally.

SEE ALSO: 5 tips on how to buy a quality watch

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1. Omega Speedmaster

I've become really attached to the ubiquitous Omega Speedmaster in so many of its forms. The Omega Speedmaster is a timepiece with so much variety, and yet so many of them are incredibly worth owning because of how well they totally incorporate what is "right" with high-end sports watches. What was originally a racing chronograph completely changed its personality when Omega had some luck with the US Government and NASA, and Speedmaster timepieces were sent into space and worn by astronauts to the moon.

Since then, the Omega Speedmaster has seen countless variations and forms - the best of which demonstrate the Speedmaster's ability to be beautiful, useful, and versatile. There are few watches with so much lasting value for such a variety of owners. I don't care what Omega Speedmaster you get, or if you have a bunch of them - everyone who loves watches needs some Speedmaster in their life.



2. Rolex Submariner

The amount of content written about the Rolex Submariner over the years could easily fill up a small library. This is probably the most copied watch design in the world, yet people still flock to the original. Rolex has essentially been making the same design since the 1950s, which is at its core a professional diving watch that was so well designed, it ends up looking good even with a tuxedo.

It would be easy to say that the Rolex Submariner is just a good looking watch with a good name on the dial — but it is more than that. Rolex more or less created he casual luxury sport watch craze with the Submariner. Always fantastically produced, the Rolex Submariner is perhaps the first do anything, go anywhere, superhero watch that became a pop culture icon because all it was trying hard at was being the best of breed. Rolex continues to improve the Submariner each few years, and the collection continues to get better and better. Even so, with each new iteration, previous generations don't go out of style, and the Rolex Submariner will likely never lose its soul. You just really need to own at least one to understand what so many before you have understood.



3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

I don't love all Reversos, but I have to hand it to Jaeger-LeCoultre that they cracked the code on making one of the most interesting and beautiful square watches of all time. Seriously, square and rectangular watches are very difficult to design with lasting impact - and pretty soon, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso will be an icon with 100 years of history. Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to not only produce the movements for each mechanical Reverso watch, but also the cases and other components.

This makes the watch a very personally JLC product, and for the money, you get a lot of watch. The basic idea of the Reverso is that the case flips around to reveal another side which is either another dial or an area that can be engraved or painted on (services which cost extra that Jaeger-LeCoultre is happy to provide). What makes the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso so universally appealing isn't just that it happens to be a successful rectangular watch, but that it demonstrates how important an iconic design is today that does indeed look like something out of art deco history. Jaeger-LeCoultre makes a lot of Reverso models, and I encourage people to find one with the size, movement, and colors they prefer. It is one casual to dressy timepiece I've never seen anyone regret.



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